Need powder comparison and information resource

[DeanC]

(if anything) is equivalent to anything else?

As far as you're concerned, nothing is equivalent to anything else. There are one or two powders that are interchangeable with another, but don't worry about it. In fact, don't even think about it. The downside is too huge. That there are some equivalencies are a matter of trivia to me and not efficiency.

How can you tell what powder to get

Do I research the powders I find listed within the Speer manual (#14) I am using as a general guide and wait till I find that powder

where can I find good reviews, comparisons, and tech data on the powders? Is there a reliable resource, either online or in print that tells me about powder?

Most good manuals will have a couple paragraphs on each caliber and should give you a hint on which loads the authors tend to like or have had good luck with. You can also study your manuals (you really should own more than one) and cross check data. One thing I like to do is find powders that have a broad spectrum of charge weights that are within spec. I do not like loads that go from starting to max in less than a few grains.

If you are totally in the dark, I have had good luck googling "(insert caliber here) Chuck Hawks". He will usually give you a couple of powders to start with. (This worked spectacularly well for me developing a load for my son's .260)

You really should also pay a visit to the Oracle at GunStop. Be humble and be honest and he will be your friend.

And by all means, ask here for opinions. I would however, not ask for, or use any data you don't get from an original source (a manual). Ask yourself: have you ever seen Sam or Pinnacle give out reloading data? It's easy for something to get lost in transcription.

[Bessy]

And by all means, ask here for opinions. I would however, not ask for, or use any data you don't get from an original source (a manual). Ask yourself: have you ever seen Sam or Pinnacle give out reloading data? It's easy for something to get lost in transcription.

You know I did post fix my load, with a disclaimer, basically telling him to disregard it and look in at least two reloading manuals. I guess I don't see the harm of saying, this is what I use... but you should look in the GD book, verify all the info you get.

Honestly If I had to start from scratch, trying to find specific loads for all my guns without consulting other people on what they were doing, I wouldn't have a 1/10th of the decent loads I do today. That doesn't mean I don't RTFM, and cross reference any recipes I get, but if they seem reasonable according to my manuals, I'll start on the low end and work up to them. I'm not going to not post a recipe that I think is a decent starting point, because I'm afraid someone might misinterpret what I say and blow themselves up.

If they don't know enough to take what I suggest, double check with a loading manual, and work up a load. Then they shouldn't be loading at all, and would most likely hurt themselves regardless, of whether or not they took my suggestion to heart. You can't fix stupid.

[EJSG19]

You can't fix stupid.

You can help prevent it though. I know Justin personally and I know he's not one to worry about doing something stupid. But you have no idea who you are giving advice to 95% of the time otherwise.

Take a look at the reloading threads on The High Road sometime. Finding a thread without several people posting their "favorite load" is sometimes a tough thing to do. It makes me really, really nervous thinking about who might be reloading based solely on that information. Lots of guys there seem to be the "too cheap to buy a manual" type. Sort of like buying a $1,200 1911 and putting it in a $20 holster, or $40 gun cabinet... but thats another discussion.

Just because you tell somebody not to be stupid, doesn't mean they'll listen. And you giving them a recipe (whether they handle it right or not) doesn't completely clear you of enabling their disaster. Those consequences weigh heavy on my mind, if I thought I was the cause of anything like that.

Back to topic. You mention Speer #14 and I think that is a good manual. I think they print information which is within a relatively safe range. Any powder in that manual, listed for use in .45 acp I have no concerns about. Some people like the cleanliness most, some like case volume, some say its different type of recoil etc. They're all close in price per/lb. and its sort of fun to see which one you like best personally. I've got Universal Clays on hand if you want to try a bit of that some time.

[Seismic Sam]

Yes, Unique is incredibly versatile, which is how it got that name, because NO other powder can be used in nearly as many loads as Unique. Veteran reloaders, however, tend to refer to it as "flammable dirt" rather than Unique, because it is a very dirty powder.

[1911fan]

" new" unique is much better than old unique. It's also my SHTF powder because you can make a workable load in pretty much every round I reload for. So ifnothing was available, I could get usable reloads for everything.

[Seismic Sam]

" new" unique is much better than old unique. It's also my SHTF powder because you can make a workable load in pretty much every round I reload for. So ifnothing was available, I could get usable reloads for everything.

Does the "new" Unique have any kind of marking on the can to say that it is the less dirty stuff??

[hammAR]

...not less dirty, but new and improved........
and if you shoot nekked it doesn't matter, cause you are going to get dirty anyhow...........

[1911fan]

" new" unique is much better than old unique. It's also my SHTF powder because you can make a workable load in pretty much every round I reload for. So ifnothing was available, I could get usable reloads for everything.

Does the "new" Unique have any kind of marking on the can to say that it is the less dirty stuff??

The upgrade hapened several years ago. Pretty much everything in the supply chain should be new.

[pastorpaul]

i bought 2 8# jugs of unique at sportsman's warehouse almost 3 years ago and was told it was a "new" and cleaner formula. i've been using it for about 90% of all my pistol loads.
and, yes, i haven't shot much in the last year or so. hopefully will do much more this 2010.

[1911fan]

i bought 2 8# jugs of unique at sportsman's warehouse almost 3 years ago and was told it was a "new" and cleaner formula. i've been using it for about 90% of all my pistol loads.
and, yes, i haven't shot much in the last year or so. hopefully will do much more this 2010.

Hey welcome back stranger...... The last jug I bought was New unique, and that was a few years ago.

[DeanC]

I have almost a pound of the old stuff in the vintage can if anyone wants to experience the good old dirty times.

[JustinPo]

Well thanks for all the replies guys!

I have already read the speer manual cover to cover once and am working on my second time through now. I agree I need at least one other manual around the house and need to read it as well. I'll head to gunstop in the next few days and consult the oracle as humbly as I can and come home with more reading material

I'm thinking that since at this time 45 acp is the only pistol caliber I'll reload that either bullseye or titegroup will be what I look for, and if I can't find that then unique would be the backup.

For bullets rainier looks like a decent solution since its copper plated (so no lead fouling in the hex barrel) and are pretty cheap, but that might change after a visit to the gunstop since I have no idea what's available locally.

[1911fan]

Well thanks for all the replies guys!

I have already read the speer manual cover to cover once and am working on my second time through now. I agree I need at least one other manual around the house and need to read it as well. I'll head to gunstop in the next few days and consult the oracle as humbly as I can and come home with more reading material

I'm thinking that since at this time 45 acp is the only pistol caliber I'll reload that either bullseye or titegroup will be what I look for, and if I can't find that then unique would be the backup.

For bullets rainier looks like a decent solution since its copper plated (so no lead fouling in the hex barrel) and are pretty cheap, but that might change after a visit to the gunstop since I have no idea what's available locally.

remember when all else fails, ask John boy.

[Bessy]

Well thanks for all the replies guys!

I have already read the speer manual cover to cover once and am working on my second time through now. I agree I need at least one other manual around the house and need to read it as well. I'll head to gunstop in the next few days and consult the oracle as humbly as I can and come home with more reading material

I'm thinking that since at this time 45 acp is the only pistol caliber I'll reload that either bullseye or titegroup will be what I look for, and if I can't find that then unique would be the backup.

For bullets rainier looks like a decent solution since its copper plated (so no lead fouling in the hex barrel) and are pretty cheap, but that might change after a visit to the gunstop since I have no idea what's available locally.

I know you aren't supposed to load moly coated lead, and lead in the h&k barrels. The plating on the Rainer's is pretty thin. I know the Rainers work in glock barrels, but the H&K manual says copper jacketed only. They might be fine, someone here who has some experience in the that area will chime in I'm sure. IMHO FMJ's load easier, you don't have to bell as much, and you don't have to worry as much about over crimping and scoring/cutting through the platting, if you are new to this whole deal (not sure if you are), it might be less to worry about. I've also had setback issues with rainers in the past.

Hopefully this time around someone doesn't try to bite my head off for trying to be helpful.

[hammAR]

Hopefully this time around someone doesn't try to bite my head off for trying to be helpful.

Not me......we cool...............