Small standard pistol primers vs. magnum

[1911fan]

This is not meant to scare you away, but to scare you into making sure you do it right and having someone help you with it. Double and triple checking references across different manuals, and then working up from there. Not all manuals are going to be identical when you are loading for one chambering.


WHY?

Because manual A used a pressure barrel with a universal receiver, Manual B used a rem 700, and Manual C used Remington brass vs Federal Brass. Also, all three are using proprietary bullets. Each bullet design has a slightly different bearing area, swaging Diameter, heel angle, and base area. All react slightly different to pressure. Now, Manual A and C say that 46 grains of reloader 19 give you 2950 fps with their 150 grain bullet for a max load, but Manual B says 45 grains of the same powder gives you 2890 fps with the same weight bullet. Does this mean this is an unsafe combo? No, actually just the opposite is true, Why? because in several combinations, fired from different guns, all result in very similar Data. Therefore, you are not finding a sore thumb sticking out, but a clear warning that although pretty standard, the max load should be approached with a bit more care.

Now, lets say you try this, the bolt opens fine, primers and cases look just fine, but your getting 2960 FPS with 2 less grains than called for in the cookbooks. What do you do.... you STOP. You can shoot a few more at this powder weight and check the loads, but I would not load higher until I get to see what the primers feel like when I kick them out, I might go a half grain higher to see what happens, but I would go no higher until i figured out what was making the jump in pressure and velocity.

[Seismic Sam]

And that brings up another issue, which is how well do you know the caliber and/or firearm that you are shooting?

Sometimes the caliber means a specific firearm, and if you know about the gun you may have some additional leeway with the cartridge. Example: S&W 500 Magnum. If you read up on the gun and the cartridge, (and if you're not a diligent reloader, answering "NO" to this question is an automatic DQ.) then you know that the original prototype CYLINDER (yes, they developed that before the gun) was literally tested to DESTRUCTION, which was estimated to be around 100,000 PSI. Hell!! The 325 grain 1950 FPS second loads kick my ass, and they're well within factory specs. Same for the Desert Eagle in all calibers. You will give it up before the gun will. NOT true for the same 50AE round in the Grizzly LAR. Many internet tales of cracked frames and guns that have died. No used guns for sale. Same for the .44 Automag. The guns are all $2200 safe queens. They will reliably break if you shoot them regularly, and I know because I owned one in 1975.

10mm frame cracking?? ONLY in the Gold Cup models, and the same was true for 45 ACP. The list goes on and on, but the facts about the handload and the gun are inextricably intertwined. As far as I know, there is NO hot 40 S&W (which is why it's called Weak) load listed, because no gun chambered in that caliber will handle it. The Glocks may fare worse than the 1911's but as far as I know, Nowlin does not offer a 40 S&W IPSC barrel, because the 10mm is already set up for that, as well as the 38 Super with 9x23 brass.

[Pinnacle]

And that brings up another issue, which is how well do you know the caliber and/or firearm that you are shooting?

Sometimes the caliber means a specific firearm, and if you know about the gun you may have some additional leeway with the cartridge. Example: S&W 500 Magnum. If you read up on the gun and the cartridge, (and if you're not a diligent reloader, answering "NO" to this question is an automatic DQ.) then you know that the original prototype CYLINDER (yes, they developed that before the gun) was literally tested to DESTRUCTION, which was estimated to be around 100,000 PSI. Hell!! The 325 grain 1950 FPS second loads kick my ass, and they're well within factory specs. Same for the Desert Eagle in all calibers. You will give it up before the gun will. NOT true for the same 50AE round in the Grizzly LAR. Many internet tales of cracked frames and guns that have died. No used guns for sale. Same for the .44 Automag. The guns are all $2200 safe queens. They will reliably break if you shoot them regularly, and I know because I owned one in 1975.

10mm frame cracking?? ONLY in the Gold Cup models, and the same was true for 45 ACP. The list goes on and on, but the facts about the handload and the gun are inextricably intertwined. As far as I know, there is NO hot 40 S&W (which is why it's called Weak) load listed, because no gun chambered in that caliber will handle it. The Glocks may fare worse than the 1911's but as far as I know, Nowlin does not offer a 40 S&W IPSC barrel, because the 10mm is already set up for that, as well as the 38 Super with 9x23 brass.

Again Sam is right on the $$$$


You MUST know the gun - the caliber and the premise of reloading and margin of safety.

Just because a top end load is safe in MY winchester Mod 70 - that does not mean that it is safe in yours - or the next guys

There are a lot of things to consider. When you start to load - here is the thing - you must take the time to read and know a lot of stuff about rifle especially - pistols are pretty simple and pretty low pressure but they are deserving of the utmost in respect from the handloader.

You can mix headstamps in pistol brass using a listed load under max within the margin of safety (This is not something that I advocate but it can be done with relative safety.)

You CANNOT mix headstamps in top end rifle loads - the variations in inside dimms could be lethal.

You have to understand headspace and how to control it using brass - this can be done as well - you have to understand leed and throat dimms of a rifle - you must know how to measure OAL correctly and stand off of the lands in the throat properly to be safe.... Basically - you have to get to know each and every rifle that that you are loading for - spend some time with it and understand what you are doing before you crank out some bad handloads.

You have to apprentice with someone for a while - that is how I learned when I was 12 and I still learn today. If you have questions - I would be willing to help if I can and if there is something that I dont know- I can get the answers for you.

Being an expert at something means that you know when you are stumped - and you know where to go to get the answers that is all.

I would gladlymakemy number avail to anyone that PM's with reloading ????'s

[chunkstyle]

Here's a little aside safety tip:

Get a flashlight for your reloading set-up. Visually inspect the powder levels of EVERY round, before bullet seating. You won't always catch your mistakes, initially you may not even know what to look for, but you will gain in intuition with time, and may well catch the ONE round that could make your gun blow up.

Naturally, this is much easier for a single-stage set up, but progressive reloaders can take it slow, and keep their eyes open, just the same.