Noob looking to start reloading

[Countryfried Frank]

I think you should start with single stage press, and reload for bolt action rifle, and stay away from pistol for a while...
...Go to Gunstop. They'll size YOU up and get you started. Quickly.

+1
I started with a mid-size rifle cartridge and moved on to various handgun and small rifle from there.
Don't assume anything if John comes across as gruff. Don't be a pain in the tail and listen to what he says, not how he says it. I actually saw him break a smile once.

[JJ]

Even though some will try and tell you that any mistake will kill you, reloading is not rocket science. You do need to be detailed and precise, but it is not exactly nuclear science.

The best way to get started IMO, is to read the manuals first, then find someone who will let you learn on their equipment. That or someone who will come and help you setup your equipment and hang out and supervise for a bit.

Add me to the list that thinks a single stage is the best way to start.

[farmerj]

Even though some will try and tell you that any mistake will kill you, reloading is not rocket science. You do need to be detailed and precise, but it is not exactly nuclear science.

The best way to get started IMO, is to read the manuals first, then find someone who will let you learn on their equipment. That or someone who will come and help you setup your equipment and hang out and supervise for a bit.

Add me to the list that thinks a single stage is the best way to start.

best advice given here so far.

Yeah, it can get ugly quick. But like anything with guns, they can all kill you. Just go slow and if you have any doubt, stop until you get an answer that clears things up.

yes, a single stage would be great for starting, you can go slow enough on the 550 you can use it like a single stage without all the additional change over steps.

There's a lot more to reloading than just pulling a lever though:
brass maintenance and prep is a process in it's own right. Consider just starting on that step alone so you have a bit of an idea how intensive it is. Brass tumbler, primer pocket tools are just a start. Culling brass if you get a bunch of range pick up to ensure you don't get a .380 in with 9 or .40 in with 10mm. Just some of the little "details" that will bite you when you pull the lever.

[Grgkng]

Thanks guys!

[Xscream]

I started reloading a couple months ago on a 550. I want to echo what was said about the 550 being a good starting point. I, as suggested, spent a couple months reading and researching prior to purchasing. If you follow the manuals, take your time, double check your work and ask questions if something doesn't make sense, you'll be fine.

I'd offer to have you down but I'm a long ways from white bear. Good luck and happy reloading.

[Ken]

By way of illustrating what you may be getting yourself into, this is what it looks like when you don't get it right:

It should be noted this resulted from a .50 cal round which is extremely cost prohibitive for a newbie, it is not known if poor reloads were even a factor.
The father of the shooter posted the story on calguns, 2 days after it happened: http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/show ... p?t=258508 (They claim it was an OOB discharge with a Bohica upper)
Here's another OOB discharge with a Bohica upper. The carnage is about halfway down. http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthr ... er=2519372

Draw your own conclusions.

[farmerj]

it's actually the same incident that loops back to the original post on calguns.

[Erud]

Even though some will try and tell you that any mistake will kill you, reloading is not rocket science. You do need to be detailed and precise, but it is not exactly nuclear science.

The best way to get started IMO, is to read the manuals first, then find someone who will let you learn on their equipment. That or someone who will come and help you setup your equipment and hang out and supervise for a bit.

Add me to the list that thinks a single stage is the best way to start.

Amen. It ain't rocket science, and it ain't brain surgery either. Human beings are capable of doing all kinds of complex and amazing processes if they set their minds to it. If you are reasonably intelligent and VERY careful, you should be fine. As others have stated, read some manuals and make sure you understand what all of your equipment is doing before you start cranking them out. I have never used a Dillon 1050, but I do have a 650 and a 550, as well as a couple of single stage presses. The 650 is very slick, but fairly complicated and there are a lot of little things that can go wrong, especially if you are new. I'm not really talking about "pool of blood on the firing line" kinds of things(though I suppose that is always a possibility...), more the "ah crap, I have to pull all of the bullets from the 100 rounds I just loaded because the primer tube stopped feeding. I would guess the 1050 is even more complex. It's probably not the best for a new reloader, but I am sure an intelligent and careful guy could make it work. I started with the 550 about 10 years ago and would have no problem recommending it to a new reloader for just about any type of loading. It's not as fast as a 650(or a 1050, I'm sure) but it's pretty darn fast and a lot more versatile than the bigger models. All of my competition ammo is loaded on the 550. The 650 gets used for cranking out huge quantities of .45 ACP, .40 S&W and .223 where I'm not quite as concerned about the tolerances. 1 single stage is for .50 BMG and the other doesn't get used at all.

And go talk to John. Tell him everybody in the state of MN sent you.

Erik

[Pinnacle]

A 550 is a single stage as needed. Just find a mentor, read a book or ten, ask questions.

[Rodentman]

I can serve as a bad example.

[OldmanFCSA]

As near as they can figure out, the Bohica 50's were blown up by "slam-fires".
When using a Bohica, remove the buffer tube spring.
If left in and shooter allows bolt to be sent home by spring pressure instead of closing it by hand, the firing pin may slam forward in manner to set off cartridge before locking lugs are manually set.

The "hammers" on the benches are used to "set" the points on the rifle rests, not to close the bolts.

At the FCSA Matches, any rifle or ammo that does not meet safety standards are dis-qualified.


Wher do you live? I have a trailer setup for reloading, and can be used for training purposes too.

[dsm2nr]

A lot of people told me an 07 Kawasaki ZX-14 (1400cc crotch rocket) was a bad beginner bike. They were wrong. I was more safe on that thing because I was more scared of it than my later owned 09 R6 which I was stupid on.

Best advice is don't be stupid. Double or triple check your work and be confident in knowing what you're doing.

[Rodentman]

Yep. Agree on the triple check. I've reloaded a lot and use a single stage press and a powder thrower. I eyeball all charged brass in the tray twice before seating bullets. I recently saw a double charged case. How the heck did that happen? Well, I did it obviously. Once I failed to catch an uncharged case and got a .44 spl bullet stuck in the bbl. Fortunately I knew right away from the sound that it was a squib and stopped firing.

You can never be too careful. I even weigh a bullet from the batch I am reloading. Yeah I trust the mfg or John-boy to give me the right bullet and mark the box/bag accordingly but I check. I don't weigh them all, but I eyeball them. I check brass carefully. Anything I am not sure about-it goes in the garbage. Maybe I heave some good brass but when in doubt I throw it out.

You gotta pay attention. If you use the wrong (too big) shellholder it's pretty certain you'll have a stuck case. I've done it.

For my purposes I try to stay at low to mid range of a charge. Some powders (like H110) have a very narrow range, so everything is hot. I check the weight on every 5th round. After awhile you get the feel of the powder thrower and you get more confident, but over-confidence is dangerous.

All said, reloading is great fun. If I couldn't reload, and had to buy factory ammo, over half the fun of the hobby would be lost.

IMHO of course.

[yuppiejr]

Not long ago I started reloading pistol ammo on a Lee turret press with auto indexing, on-press priming and a neat powder drop mechanism that took a lot of the manual steps out of the process (against the general advice given here for new reloaders). I recently went back to the basics and started reloading rifle cartridges (.308, .223) following the process outlined "by the book" using a Lee Classic Cast single stage press and have learned more about the entire process and have produced better ammunition as a result.

Were I to do it over again, I'd kick my ego in the .... posterior..., take the good advice given and purchase a quality single stage press (RCBS Rockchucker, Redding Big Boss, Lee Classic Cast, etc..) and start the process slow after reading/re-reading the manuals (that part I got right at least). If you ever need to produce small test batches of ammo later while developing a new load or testing a new component in a reloading formula it's a lot easier to do so on a single stage press than a progressive. Even if you end up in a progressive press down the road (which to me seems like a no-brainer for a pistol reloader even if it's just a basic Lee Pro 1000/Loadmaster) a good grasp of the fundamentals will not only make you safer but likely improve the end result of any reloading you do.

An air nailer and compressor setup are great tools for many jobs but all self respecting carpenters still have a trusty claw hammer in reach at all times....

[rugersol]

I don't understand why folks believe a turret/progressive "requies" one to do everything "quickly", "all at once", or "with little to no thought"?

You still pull the lever ... how fast or slow is entirely up to you. The dies work the same, and in fact, are identical. And in any such press, ya can easily remove all but one die ... making it a "single-stage" press.

IOW, it wasn't the press that kept ya from learning, or doing a good job.