My tumbler saga...

[Rodentman]

I decided to start a new thread documenting my rust issue with my wet pin tumbler. I emailed the seller sending some photos and I got this response, which is about what I expected:

«We have guys paint inside to help stop the rust. You can call the manufacturer and ask them what works best. 1800-225-1017 I have never heard anyone try and get the rust off the rubber.

Cory Dickerson
Stainless Tumbling Media»

IOW it's not his problem. Well, yeah it's mine.

Here's the way it looked when I took the rubber insert out:





Using vinegar and an SOS pad I cleaned the rubber insert:



I mixed up some JB Weld epoxy:



I covered the areas where the little holes were:



I didn't say it was pretty.

I used BB's and tumbled dry for a few hours. A lot of rust was removed:





The first coat of rust inhibiter, like naval jelly:



The second coat:



And it dried black as expected:



Tomorrow it gets a coat of this, and then a second coat Tuesday. Then a bead of silicone caulk. Hopefully it will be ok then. I suspect I should take the liner out after each use and make sure it is dry. Too bad it isn't welded and painted properly to start with.

[xd ED]

That looks like a good way to dal with it.

I got a question, for anyone, at large: Don't those tumblers start out life as a 'rock polisher'/ tumbler, and get fitted with the rubber inner barrel? If so, wouldn't the polishing media used without the rubber barrel leak our the weld-less gaps between the drum body and the end plate. It almost looks like part of the 'repair' of the rust would be to weld/ braze/ solder up the gaps, (along with sealing the rubber tub to the drum. Or maybe I have a distorted/ incorrect mental image of what's going on.

[bensdad]

Wow. And I thought the process of wet/steel pin cleaning was already a big step in the wrong direction (significantly more work). Now this? You make a great case for walnut/corncob and 12 hrs in the blue bubble.

[Spinner]

This is a great pictorial on your solution.

I have been thinking about a stainless media wet tumbler. I currently soak/wash all my brass and dry it in a food dehydrator, so wet tumbling is not a big step for me. I'm now rethinking getting a wet tumbler.

Thanks!


Spinner

[Makarov]

Rodentman:
It looks like you solved the problem and killed the rust
Great set of photos. I hope you don't mind that I "recycled" one for this post...

xd ED:
I believe the only difference between this unit sold as a rock tumbler and a brass polisher is the motor speed.
For tumbling rocks, it is sold with a 1550 rpm motor, for polishing brass, it uses a 3000 rpm motor.

The sheet metal barrel body has tabs spot welded to the ends.
To weld/ braze/ solder the gaps may add significant labor costs??? I don't know.
I would think adding a bead of sealant at the factory should be quick and easy.
At the very least, the factory could simply paint the whole inside of the metal barrel,( NOT leaving exposed bare metal) which should prevent the rusting issue at least for many years of use.

The rubber insert liner is replaceable: http://rocktumbler.com/thumlers/model-b ... arts.shtml
Not sure how long it lasts when tumbling rocks, but I don't think I (or my grand kids) will ever wear it out tumbling brass, so sealing it in place could be an option.
For now, I plan to pull it out after a couple of months of use, to make sure I have the rust under control.

Rodentman image below with my text added:


For everyone else:
The problem from the factory are the gaps in the metal barrel that allow spilled water to wick up from the bottom, getting between the factory unpainted metal barrel and the rubber insert.
Once water gets between the rubber insert and metal barrel, tumbling only helps spread it around.

Image below from SS Tumbling You Tube with my text added:



With a new tumbler, the solution to prevent rust should be as simple as painting the inside of the barrel and then silicone caulking the gaps where the metal barrel joins the ends.

I cleaned light rust, painted and caulked the inside of my barrel but only on the "bottom" end (end opposite the lid). That should prevent any spilled water from getting inside. After seeing the rust in the photos above, I think I will also run a bead of caulk around the outside of the barrel on both ends, inside the lip, where Rodentman put the JB Weld, sealing all the gaps, top and bottom. That should solve the problem.

I'm also surprised and disappointed that Thumler's does not do this at the factory.

[xd ED]

Marakov,
Thanks for the excellent explanation. It is odd the manufacturing process wasn't more complete, re painting, and sealing.
It makes me wonder: Is wet/ pin tumbling a fairly new process? Maybe this will be the user feedback the manufacturer will use to modify the product's creation.

[Rodentman]

I plan to caulk the openings with this, and run a bead along and around my miserable epoxy work as well. I don't care how pretty it is. I'm pretty ugly myself.

I had ignored the top holes, but geez I gotta seal them too, so I'll put a drop of caulk on those as well.



After the first coat of paint. Second coat tomorrow.



As others have stated, seems pretty careless workmanship. Customer shouldn't need to modify the unit.

[rottenit]

Thanks for the heads up on this! Just checked mine and its starting to rust used 2 times

Maybe we can make/market a better one!

[Rodentman]

I read that it's a good idea to silicone spray the inside of the drum before inserting the liner. Makes it easier to remove, which is suggested to be done after every use to make sure any moisture can be dealt with asap.

I will try doing that once I get this dog up and running again. If the liner can be easily removed I will add that to my process.

Painting should be done tomorrow.

[Rodentman]

Thanks for the heads up on this! Just checked mine and its starting to rust used 2 times

Maybe we can make/market a better one!

Yeah, bare metal and water sealed inside where it can't evaporate spells disaster. It took a LOT of tugging for me to get the liner out. That rust had frozen the rubber to the metal pretty badly.

[xd ED]

This thread has been a valuable education. A while back I ordered a Tumbler, and it still sits in the original box- (as John Lennon sang: "Life is what happens when you're busy making other plans…") When I get a round tuet, I'll make these mods before it sees the first drop of water.
Thanks to all

[OldmanFCSA]

I read that it's a good idea to silicone spray the inside of the drum before inserting the liner. Makes it easier to remove, which is suggested to be done after every use to make sure any moisture can be dealt with asap.

I will try doing that once I get this dog up and running again. If the liner can be easily removed I will add that to my process.

Painting should be done tomorrow.

I run 3 large barrels, 1 of which is over 25 years old, without any modification to barrels or liners. Patching the holes shut will seal the unit preventing ease of removal of rubber insert due to no vents available. Then adding a silicon sealer to top flange will promote rusting between metal and rubber insert due to chemical breakdown of silicon sealer, and further prevent removal of rubber insert.
Don't over-think the repairs.

To each their own - I choose not to seal the unit for long-term usage.

[engnerdan]

This would be a far better treatment for stopping rust.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preven ... _c_11.html

This stuff is seriously as hard and tough as they say. Rodent my offer stands, if you continue to have rust problems let me know, we can sand blast and coat your drum with POR15.

-Dan

[xd ED]

I read that it's a good idea to silicone spray the inside of the drum before inserting the liner. Makes it easier to remove, which is suggested to be done after every use to make sure any moisture can be dealt with asap.

I will try doing that once I get this dog up and running again. If the liner can be easily removed I will add that to my process.

Painting should be done tomorrow.

I run 3 large barrels, 1 of which is over 25 years old, without any modification to barrels or liners. Patching the holes shut will seal the unit preventing ease of removal of rubber insert due to no vents available. Then adding a silicon sealer to top flange will promote rusting between metal and rubber insert due to chemical breakdown of silicon sealer, and further prevent removal of rubber insert.
Don't over-think the repairs.

To each their own - I choose not to seal the unit for long-term usage.

Sealing everything up could have some unintended consequences, but any bare, unprotected steel should be dealt with for a long service life, without any problems.

[Rodentman]

Maybe I'll just get a Lortone and be done with it.