Tool marks...

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Tool marks...

Postby Rodentman on Sat Dec 21, 2013 9:24 pm

Here is the parts tray I got with the 223 loading blocks. It's got some tool marks, but it completely smooth with no sharp edges. Since can't even spell CNC I haven't the foggiest if such marks are "normal" but I pleased with the tray. I bought it to use, not look at...

Image

Image

Image
Last edited by Rodentman on Sat Dec 21, 2013 9:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Too marks...

Postby FJ540 on Sat Dec 21, 2013 9:35 pm

Totally normal.

They're micro scratches in the surface caused by the cutter going over the already cut work surface. Same principle as jeweling only a byproduct of the process rather than the intent.
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Re: Too marks...

Postby EJSG19 on Sat Dec 21, 2013 9:35 pm

Pretty sweet. Tool marks can be dealt with if you ever chose. This looks similar to anything else I've seen from a cnc. Is that aluminum? If so its fairly easy compared to steel to smooth up.
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Re: Tool marks...

Postby Rodentman on Sat Dec 21, 2013 9:39 pm

Yep, it's aluminum. And it does have that shiny gleam like jeweling.
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Re: Tool marks...

Postby EJSG19 on Sat Dec 21, 2013 9:49 pm

Depending how hard it is you can work finer from anything like scotch brite pads... or plain old sandpaper. Start at say 80 grit and go finer until you at happy. Mirror polish isn't tough but a buffing wheel and buffing compounds will be handy on an angle grinder (higher rpm the better)

I maintain or fix up woodworking tools with cast iron this way. Ill use my palm sander sometimes. Cant really screw up once you get the hang of it. Start fine and go coarser if you are afraid of over abrading / remove metal. once you get aggressive enough to remedy the problem go back fineFJ probably has some fancy surface grinder if you don't want to DIY...

All that said... cnc marks look cool.
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Re: Tool marks...

Postby 67camaro on Sun Dec 22, 2013 4:53 pm

As previous post said yes use sandpaper but do not start at 80 :shock: say start at 600 or 1000 and go up to 1500-2500. You can get a pretty nice shine with 1500 but the finer you go the more mirror like it will be. On something like that I don't think I would mind the tooling marks they look kinda cool IMO.
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Re: Tool marks...

Postby EJSG19 on Sun Dec 22, 2013 5:14 pm

The grit depends on the task. If you have metal to remove and you start at 600... well... enjoy. On that note a flap wheel on a grinder might be smarter than sanding... if the user applies wisely. All depends on how much ridge or cup is left by the machine. Hopefully not much.

Not arguing just fyi for those new to it.
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Re: Tool marks...

Postby Eleanor08 on Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:35 pm

Do not use any type of power grinder, or power tool.. You will gouge the crap out of it..

Start with sand paper by HAND, maybe 600 grit. Heck I wouldn't even use sand paper.

Personally at work whenever I want to pretty something up I use ScotchBrite.

Please note that once you start polishing the floor of that thing up, the rest won't match, so you better be ready to work the whole thing over.

If it was me I would leave it.

And I am a Machinist..
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Re: Tool marks...

Postby mahnster on Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:33 am

Eleanor08 wrote:If it was me I would leave it.

And I am a Machinist..



Same here, the finish looks good as is.
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Re: Tool marks...

Postby Rodentman on Mon Dec 23, 2013 6:58 pm

Thanks. I intend to leave it as is! I have a bad habit of ruining stuff.
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Re: Tool marks...

Postby hydraulicman on Wed Dec 25, 2013 10:00 pm

looks good to me sand paper and scotch brite will take those right out. I'd leave it i think it looks cool

(also a machinist)
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Re: Tool marks...

Postby Beretta96CT on Thu Dec 26, 2013 10:07 am

I would leave it alone in case it was clear anodized.
If anodizing is removed, the aluminum will oxidize.
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