38/357 roll, taper, or lee factory crimp?

[justinvan]

Whats your flavor for crimping 38/357? I am looking to load mostly jacketed cannelured bullets in the low to mid power range. I just seem to find ALOT of different views on wich way to go. Looking to get dies and not sure what way to go. How is the lee factory crimp for this?
thanks
mr.jt

[Deputyhiro]

I believe roll crimping is the way to go with magnum revolver rounds.

[justinvan]

Pretty sure roll is the way for me to go... just wonder where the taper would come into play? Is the LFCD a roll type crimp as well?

[Bearcatrp]

Is the LFCD a roll type crimp as well?

Roll crimp. I use my LFCD for my 44 mag by putting a light crimp. Love the Lee dies.
http://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/ ... crimp-die/

[crbutler]

Taper crimp comes in to play when using a cartridge that headspaces on the case mouth (most auto pistol rounds)

The only real difference I see in the dies is how abrupt the tapering occurs in them on the seater or crimp die.

I have used some taper crimping on the .357 for a Coonan, but I don't think it made any difference.

One thing about roll crimp is that it is a lot more sensitive to having uniform case length.

I am not a fan of the lee "factory crimp die"

In effect you are resizing a loaded round. It really is not needed at all if you have done everything right, and if you "need" it, you probably should look for why you need it in your technique rather than just saying, "its good, I've got the LFCD to fix the problem."

[Mauser98]

Roll crimping plated bullets may cut the plating. I use a taper crimp when working with berry's and the like.

[grimbeaver]

I just started loading 357 as well and am currently using a very light roll crimp with Berry's plated bullets as to not cut the plating as Mauser98 mentioned. Though now he has me thinking about picking up the taper crimp die and giving that a try. Personally I always try and start with a standard well established round and make sure I got that working well before trying what someone on the internet said they do. Thus before trying the plated I loaded with a roll crimp and jacketed cannelured bullets. So in my opinion start with the roll crimp. You can always buy the taper crimp die on it's own later if you decide you want to give it a try.

Though I have yet to try one I don't see the need for the Lee Factory Crimp die either. Maybe if you were shooting a Boberg XR pistol that likes to pull bullets but for anything else it just seems to me like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

[OldmanFCSA]

I've posted replies to this exact question in the past and had a few members criticize my methods. All I say is that it works great for me and my applications.

Because I don't trim 99% of my pistol or revolver brass, I use a Taper Crimp die to finish my final crimp. "Final Crimp ???" Yes, I start the crimp for revolver cartridges using a slight ROLL CRIMP that gets the inside edge of the case started into the cannelure, then finish crimp by taper crimping to ensure an even positive crimp on the bullet cannelure. Works great for 38/357, 44Spcl/44Mag, 30-30/308/30-06, and 223/5.56x45 when used with cannelures and semi-auto or lever-action rifles. Ensures a smoother feed into the chamber.

I do NOT crimp any round intended to be used as an "accuracy" round. Contrary to what LEE professes, I have not found a single case where it helps when other normal operations are followed correctly.

To each their own, and YOUR METHODS MAY VARY (YMMV).

[Mauser98]

Interesting method Oldman.

Would you use this method even when a heavy roll crimp is warranted? Like in heavy recoil loads for a 460 or 500, or snubby scandia framed guns with hot loads that have snappy recoil.

I imagine this will extend brass life a little bit, as the mouth may have less work hardening with this method. I'll have to give it a try.

[grimbeaver]

Well this thread got me intrigued so I picked up the Redding taper crimp die this afternoon. Next batch of Barry's I load I'll try it out. Not sure about using Oldman's method on plated bullets though. Maybe if they were plated with cannelure.

[Bearcatrp]

Oldman, what are you using for your taper crimp? Any chance you could post pics of both finished process? Am always eager to learn other ways.

[OldmanFCSA]

If it has a cannelure, my procedure works.
If it does not have a cannelure, I lightly taper crimp.
I use RCBS Taper Crimp dies that I have had for 25+ years.

[jtk5768]

Oldman, just curious what your recommendation would be for a cast pill... in 180-190gr range? I need to schedule a time to come out for some more training... I'll be calling you in the near future...

[OldmanFCSA]

The older Lyman books show loadings for a 190 grain loading in a 38 Special. That book is out in my shop, not available at this time as I sit on the couch in the house. I have a mould for that cast bullet.

[OldmanFCSA]

Oldman, just curious what your recommendation would be for a cast pill... in 180-190gr range? I need to schedule a time to come out for some more training... I'll be calling you in the near future...

Should I set up 3 hour training sessions with up to 5 or 8 students and charge $100 each ???
I think not. I prefer one-on-one or one-on-two, and for you to decide what my training is worth to you and use that as a guideline for a donation to my "Heating Fund". (Heating my 34X48 shop to 66 degrees costs me about $330/month average.)

Some have "donated" as little as $5 which pissed me off for 6+ hours of training and 1 person donated over $250 for his 8 hours of detailed training, which could be excessive to some. Somewhere in-between leaves all parties with good feelings about future advanced classes.

If I were certified as a NRA Reloading Instructor and used their curriculum for classes (and ignored what is not covered by their info) as a basis for a business, then I too would have to charge for services. But I don't have a business, I do this because I love reloading and love teaching others the basics of reloading. Most learn quickly, some have called me afterward with more questions, which I request instead of typing out an answer with 1 finger. Some are intrigued by some of my other projects in the shop which leads to further questions and possibly advanced classes. My 50's are the best attention getters, especially when dis-mantled for updates or set-back & re-chambering.

My training shall remain FREE because it is detailed to each person at time of need and does not follow a set curriculum. If you want to stay or leave, that is your option. IF I ASK you to leave, leave. IF I have to TELL you to leave, I will also be calling the Sheriff for backup, and trespassing charges may be filed. (Only two situations so-far.) Otherwise you are welcome to stay as long as you need to properly learn what you need. One specialized 50BMG training session resulted in a person staying from Friday night thru Monday morning. (Wife did charge for meals and room. I charged only for equipment purchased.)

I've had those whose only intent was to steal my supplies = don't piss me off. (Something about a backhoe and a bag of lime .........................heard this someplace, not sure what it means. ???????????????????????????). Sheriff has handled all my security needs as he lives close-by. I require a scanned copy of your Drivers License before attending and this copy is only used for identification purposes at time of arrival. If this requirement is too much for you, don't call or contact me for information.


Edited for spelling and fat-finger typing which results in two keys being typed at once. Most I catch and edit, some I miss and you read.