wanna get my feet wet/looking to start reloading

View · by **rukwikenuf** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 3:47 pm

what do i need? besides EVERYTHING, what should i look for? i'm planning on reloading my pistols (45, 40, 38spc and 357mag) and possibly my dad's (9mm, 44mag and 380)
i know that each caliber needs separate dies, but what do they do, and why do they come in sets of three?
what kind of equipment should i get? my uncle, who has been reloading for 30 plus years and i trust fully, said i should get the RCBS Rock Chucker supreme master kit. his reasoning is that it has everything i will ever need, but do i need it all right now? can i do rifle cartridges in the same equipment as pistol?

HELP A BROTHER OUT! i'm so new to this that i don't have the slightest idea of how it all works. however, i'm not an idiot and i can learn things pretty quickly. i don't have plans for loading hot rod type ammo, or even finding the perfect load for accuracy (yet), i primarily want to be able to afford a trip to the range! i'm tired of dropping $150 in ammo for a range trip. it's bad enough paying range fees!

i have a fair amount of brass that i have saved, but i don't know what is and is not reloadable. i know that there are shops that specialize in reloading (read: GunStop) but my thought is that if i go in there he'll see an easy sucker and sell me the most expensive thing he has on the shelf, instead of what will do the trick.

some advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys!

View · by **timwarner** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 4:10 pm

Hornady LnL AP, a few shell plates, a few bushings, and a few set of dies.
Rugersol would be the expert on exactly what you need to get going.

I'm sure he'll be along shortly.

View · by **rugersol** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 4:27 pm

rugersol wrote:
Livngr8ful wrote:It is Greek to me at this point.

It's actually very simple.

Firing pin strikes the primer, ignites the powder, creates gas/pressure, expands the case tightly against the chamber, forces the bullet out the bbl.

1. clean the case (lots of us use a vibratory tumbler filled with crushed corn-cob and polish)

2. knock out the dead primer, and resize the case (this is done with the decap/size die ... does both in one step ... ram of the press simply forces the case into a steel cylinder which is narrower than the chamber of your bbl)

3. seat a new primer (some presses have some way of doing this, otherwise there's handheld deallies you can use ... basically jest a force-fit)

4. expand the case-mouth (kinda the same as the decap/size die, except w/o the decapping-pin ... and a plug the bells out the case mouth, as the ram pushes it up, against it)

5. put new powder in the case (this is where it can get ugly ... if ya got a case-activated powder-measure, ya can avoid a lotta problems ... so long as ya don't let it run outta powder, 'er otherwise double-charge the case )

6. seat a new bullet (kinda the same as the decap/size die, except w/o the decapping-pin ... and a "plug" to keep the bullet from moving, as the ram pushes the case upward, around it)

7. crimp (kinda like the decap/size die, except w/o the decapping-pin ... and at some point, the inside of the die curves inward, forcing the case-mouth against the bullet ... to hold it in place )

This is considering a 4-die set. Regardless, the seat die (of nearly any manufacturer) also crimps. However, not crimping at the same time as seating is a simple matter of raising the die (so the "crimp" does not engage the case) and lowering the "plug", to maintain proper seating depth.

This is also describing crimping for a rimmed revolver cartridge. Crimping is somewhat different for semi-auto cartridges.

There are particular things that can go wrong, in this process (i.e. high-primers, too much crimp, not enough crimp, backwards primer, no primer, no powder, not enough powder, too much powder, double-charge, insufficient resizing, bulged brass, split case, loose primer pocket). Most everyone can learn how to "get going" in about 10min. It's the next 40yr, ya spend figuring out how to avoid all them problems ... and discovering new ones!

Here's a little video of an auto-indexing (turret rotates automatically, each time the lever is pulled) turret-press ... this is relatively quick, for a beginner ... but you can wait as long as ya like, between pulls!

Ya might consider stopping by some shop somewhere and picking up a reloading manual ... Lyman, Hornady, Speer ... all good manuals! They'll have a hunderd 'er more pages of "recipes" (amounts of powder, which primer, and which bullets) fer the better part of all cartridges ever manufactured. They'll also have 20 - 50 pages of how to handload ... and how to avoid most of them problems ... good stuff!

View · by **mmcnx2** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 4:28 pm

Gun stop will not take you for a sucker, John is a straight guy and will lead you right. I would suggest given your budget a single stage press. If you start with 45 or 38spc the loads are pretty idiot proof, 40 can get up there depending on the powder same with 357. Get a good case gauge and my advise would be plated or jacketed bullets to start, cast are cheaper but the lube can build up and be a minor hassle to a newbie.

There are also plenty of folks, like myself, that will be more than happy to help you setup your gear when you get it home. Just drop me a PM and we can chat.

View · by **1911fan** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 4:43 pm

Yuppers. There is a lot of crap to buy to get started and trying to do it on the cheap is more expensive than just doing it right the first time. Used single stage presses are avaiable and will work to start. Once you get just a little understanding getting a progressive is the ticket for handgun and some rifle loads.

View · by **OldmanFCSA** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 5:14 pm

I've been reloading since 1972 - loaded so many different cartridges I've lost count.

If there's anything I can do to help you, let me know. PM me your location.

I have a Portable Reloading trailer special built to allow me to reload on-site at any shooting range.
I reload from 22 Hornet to 50BMG - I just need to know your needs and cartridge.

View · by **Npederse** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 6:10 pm

rukwikenuf wrote:what do i need? besides EVERYTHING, what should i look for? i'm planning on reloading my pistols (45, 40, 38spc and 357mag) and possibly my dad's (9mm, 44mag and 380)
i know that each caliber needs separate dies, but what do they do, and why do they come in sets of three?
what kind of equipment should i get? my uncle, who has been reloading for 30 plus years and i trust fully, said i should get the RCBS Rock Chucker supreme master kit. his reasoning is that it has everything i will ever need, but do i need it all right now? can i do rifle cartridges in the same equipment as pistol?

HELP A BROTHER OUT! i'm so new to this that i don't have the slightest idea of how it all works. however, i'm not an idiot and i can learn things pretty quickly. i don't have plans for loading hot rod type ammo, or even finding the perfect load for accuracy (yet), i primarily want to be able to afford a trip to the range! i'm tired of dropping $150 in ammo for a range trip. it's bad enough paying range fees!

i have a fair amount of brass that i have saved, but i don't know what is and is not reloadable. i know that there are shops that specialize in reloading (read: GunStop) but my thought is that if i go in there he'll see an easy sucker and sell me the most expensive thing he has on the shelf, instead of what will do the trick.

some advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys!

+1 on the RCBS Rockchucker kit. Good kit to get started, has really everything you need (except dies) to get going.

View · by **Pat Cannon** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 6:37 pm

How much mula to start rolling my own?

View · by **timwarner** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 6:42 pm

OldmanFCSA wrote:I've been reloading since 1972 - loaded so many different cartridges I've lost count.

If there's anything I can do to help you, let me know. PM me your location.

I have a Portable Reloading trailer special built to allow me to reload on-site at any shooting range.
I reload from 22 Hornet to 50BMG - I just need to know your needs and cartridge.

Here's a couple of pictures - trailer is not completed, but usable. The KTM530 is used to check targets at extended ranges of 1000 yards, 1 mile, or longer. (I don't walk very well)

jesus christ. For a new guy you sure know how to bring the clout.
I would need to ask for monetary donations for my travel expenses.

This is the Match I will Direct next year for the FCSA.

View · by **rukwikenuf** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 9:22 pm

OldmanFCSA wrote: The KTM530 is used to check targets at extended ranges of 1000 yards, 1 mile, or longer. (I don't walk very well)

see, i couldn't just ride that KTM to go check targets, i'd be on a long and FUN ride as i get distracted!

thanks for the imput guys. i think i'll take a trip to GunStop tomorrow

View · by **stesch_s10** on Sun Sep 25, 2011 10:07 pm

I say go to Gun Stop and talk to John. Tell him what ammo your loading. what your purpose is. How many. your budget.

He might seem "grumpy" but hes a super nice guy. Oh and if you bring your dog they give it treats. (Mine knows when we pull in the parking lot)

View · by **Seismic Sam** on Mon Sep 26, 2011 2:41 am

Most important thing to buy FIRST: A Speer #14 manual or a Hornady #8 manual, and read every freaking page of the instructions on how to reload. (Close to 175 pages....) Then read it again, and THEN start figuring out what you want to buy. This hobby is extremely intolerant of mistakes, and depending on people you have never met except on the internet for a THOROUGH instruction is asking for trouble. Yes, John-Boy can tell you what to buy, but he isn't going to come over to your house and hold your hand and teach you everything you need to know. That will require a considerable effort on your part to LEARN and RTFM, and if you try and short-cut this part of the process you'll be a very messy statistic.

View · by **stesch_s10** on Mon Sep 26, 2011 3:01 am

Yes, Sam's right. John will show you what to buy, and even run some examples on his press's that he has set up.. but he can't show you everything.

I'd also like to say buy the Lyman's 49th edition and read that sucker as well.

View · by **OldmanFCSA** on Mon Sep 26, 2011 6:56 am

I am a firm believer in ther reading of the Hornady Manual and keep several versions of various brands in my trailer.
If you need help after talking to John - contact me - I saw from your signature profile that you live close so no travel expenses - I once made the offer to a guy living in Mankato, it ended up costing me more than i'll ever know, but the friendship generated will last a lifetime !!!

View · by **Dick Unger** on Mon Sep 26, 2011 7:32 am

It's important not to get scared off by all the warnings. I've been reloading since I was 12 years old, and that's about the time consumers started doing it. An old boy (Great War vet) had an old press and scale in his garage, my parents didn't even know. And I had a 257 Roberts rifle. This guy is long dead, but you have a better option, go to Gunstop, talk to Jon.

I was a good reader, the guy who tought me could not read well, and never owned a manual. (And we didn't shoot high pressure pistols 50 years ago, so it was easier.)

It's easier to start wilh rifle stuff than pistol. If you can start with a mauser style rifle, it's fairly forgiving, and you'll learn your equipment. Wear glasses when you shoot, which you should do with any ammo.

If you don't want to read everyting, read the rifle stuf first and do it with a single stage press, which you really need even if you later buy the fanciest press available.