RCBS Beam scales

[Jack's My dog]

I have been doing some reading on beam scales trying to decide which way I need to go. For now I only am reloading 9mm, .38 and .357. In the near future I will be reloading .44 Mag. I likley will also be getting into the plain Jane .223 or .308, and possibly 284 Win a bit further out. I am currently leaning towards a the RCBS 5-0-5 or their 10-10, both seem to get pretty favorable reviews.

I am wondering if you guys have any experience with either of these and if the 10-10 is worth the extra dough?

[BigDog58]

If you are mostly loading pistol ammo and just plain rifle ammo and not experimenting with MAX loads, I suggest you look at a good Electronic Scale. One that runs off of outlet power not just batteries. It will speed up your loading considerably. I purchased a New Pact scale for less than $85, and it has helped me load very consistent loads. I've verified it both with a cheap beam scale (just to verify load weights were precise) and verified my deviations using a chronograph .

The reason you want one that runs on outlet power is you can leave it on 24/7, where battery units shut off every few minutes. You cannot stay accurate with an electronic scale unless it stays on so the components can reach a stable temp. Temp variations of the components will give inaccurate results (I never turn my scale off, except while I'm here recovering from surgery with no way to hand load ). I also use calibration weights with my scale before I begin a loading session. You will find a good electronic scale will speed your loading quite a bit.

I know I didn't answer your exact question but thought you might want to consider this before shelling out money and then wishing you had other ideas. I hope this helps.

[farmerj]

I use this and a trickler. Does the job for me. Rifle, shotgun and pistol.

http://www.hornady.com/store/Hornady-Ba ... eam-Scale/

[noylj]

If I had to use a beam scale, it would be a an RCBS 5-0-10 (same beam as the 10-10) or 10-10. I like the thumb-wheel poise and hate those with a regular poise for the tenths of a grain.
Of course, I gave up beams back in the late '70s.
Even the much maligned Lee Safety Scale is more than adequate and as sensitive or more sensitive as most--it is just a pain to read with that vernier scale.

[Jack's My dog]

If you are mostly loading pistol ammo and just plain rifle ammo and not experimenting with MAX loads, I suggest you look at a good Electronic Scale. One that runs off of outlet power not just batteries. It will speed up your loading considerably. I purchased a New Pact scale for less than $85, and it has helped me load very consistent loads. I've verified it both with a cheap beam scale (just to verify load weights were precise) and verified my deviations using a chronograph .

The reason you want one that runs on outlet power is you can leave it on 24/7, where battery units shut off every few minutes. You cannot stay accurate with an electronic scale unless it stays on so the components can reach a stable temp. Temp variations of the components will give inaccurate results (I never turn my scale off, except while I'm here recovering from surgery with no way to hand load ). I also use calibration weights with my scale before I begin a loading session. You will find a good electronic scale will speed your loading quite a bit.

I know I didn't answer your exact question but thought you might want to consider this before shelling out money and then wishing you had other ideas. I hope this helps.

I have a $30 Hornady digital scale that came with my "deluxe" kit. In the future I do intend to start working up to max loads and the POS scale, as Sam would put it, is clearly not suitable for the task. For my current purposes the lil digi is ok, and a better one is probably in my future, but a beam scale is the next piece of equipment to purchase.

[westhope]

Are you measuring each charge on the scale or are you only verifying the setting of a powder throw?

I do not trust electronic scales (Dillon) for light pistol loads. I will not use it. I trust my RCBS 10-10 scale. Very consistent.

The only thing you are giving up with a beam scale is they may be slower than an electronic scale to weigh every charge.

[Jack's My dog]

Up until recently, I have been weighing every charge. Lately I have been charging 20-30 cases with the powder measure and the checking 10% or more if the look different during visual inspection. I am ok with a little slower process. I am looking for better accuracy as I work up loads.

[cobb]

Are you measuring each charge on the scale or are you only verifying the setting of a powder throw?

I do not trust electronic scales (Dillon) for light pistol loads. I will not use it. I trust my RCBS 10-10 scale. Very consistent.

The only thing you are giving up with a beam scale is they may be slower than an electronic scale to weigh every charge.

I have 2 electronic scales, a Pact for reloading and a Serta for a variety of things. I sometimes use an electronic scale when checking standard loads from my Dillion 550, may also use my RCBS 505, but the load may stay in the pan for a period so they both have time to settle. If loading specific loads like working up a load that I am being more critical with I use my RCBS 505. I trust the 505 or a beam scale more because I can see what it is doing. Air flow can effect an electronic scale such as the air conditioning or furnace kicking in. Loading press movement or vibration can effect a scale and how fast it settles, a beam scale I can see this, an electronic scale I cannot.

If one scale is the choice, I would go with a 505 over an electronic hands down.

[Pat Cannon]

If I had to use a beam scale, it would be a an RCBS 5-0-10 (same beam as the 10-10) or 10-10. I like the thumb-wheel poise and hate those with a regular poise for the tenths of a grain.
Of course, I gave up beams back in the late '70s.
Even the much maligned Lee Safety Scale is more than adequate and as sensitive or more sensitive as most--it is just a pain to read with that vernier scale.

I bought a used 5-0-5 off the markdown shelf at Gunstop a while ago; until then I just had the "much maligned Lee Safety Scale". I found it to be much less of a step up than I expected. I agree about the tenths poise; moving that little dangly piece of metal to the next notch takes almost as much dexterity and squinting as using the vernier on the Lee scale.

[Seismic Sam]

Are you measuring each charge on the scale or are you only verifying the setting of a powder throw?

I do not trust electronic scales (Dillon) for light pistol loads. I will not use it. I trust my RCBS 10-10 scale. Very consistent.

The only thing you are giving up with a beam scale is they may be slower than an electronic scale to weigh every charge.

I have 2 electronic scales, a Pact for reloading and a Serta for a variety of things. I sometimes use an electronic scale when checking standard loads from my Dillion 550, may also use my RCBS 505, but the load may stay in the pan for a period so they both have time to settle. If loading specific loads like working up a load that I am being more critical with I use my RCBS 505. I trust the 505 or a beam scale more because I can see what it is doing. Air flow can effect an electronic scale such as the air conditioning or furnace kicking in. Loading press movement or vibration can effect a scale and how fast it settles, a beam scale I can see this, an electronic scale I cannot.

If one scale is the choice, I would go with a 505 over an electronic hands down.

^^^^^ THIS!!!! You can SEE if there is something wrong with a beam scale (dust, static, drafts), while with a digital there are just these numbers staring at you, and who knows if they're right or not? Well, you simply can't be sure, which when weighing max loads is a very bad thing. Oh, and if you go back in my scale rants, you will see that the $134 Dillon De-Terminator scale has a nasty roundoff error that the manufacturers haven't wised up to, and I think this may extend to more than one manufacturer. Seeing as reloading is illegal in China, do you really think the EE's designing these things even know WHY the scale has to weigh in grams and grains??

[Synergy]

There was a time I was thinking of getting the 1010 to replace my 505 in the attempt to get a more accurate scale but didn't do it and here's why. (if I'm wrong on this then someone say so)

With the 505 I would zero it out at 0 grains by using the leveling wheel to get the needle right in the middle, then I would move the weights to the charge I was looking for, say 15.5 grains for instance. I would then use my calibration weights to verify and it was ALWAYS off just a tad, not much but enough to bother me, maybe a half a grain or so. I would then re adjust the wheel so the pointer was exactly in the middle with the calibration weights in the pan. So my theory was that as long as your using calibration weights to verify your really balanced out at any given weight then that's all you need. I don't know how the 1010 would be an improvement over this and I would still use the same method, all your doing is balancing and the 505 works very well for that.

BTW, I pretty much use my digital scale to the .02 for everything now because I believe its more accurate when you really can't see .02 grains difference on the 505. If you get a digital spend the money on it.

[farmerj]

learned a long time ago working with chemicals....

Most day to day measurements an electronic scale is good enough. When it became critical, the beams came out.

If we ever had a dosing issue, the first thing to go after was the measuring devices. Something was always out of calibration on them that it became a daily routine for me to have my operators verify the dosing equipment for correct amounts. Just how it was. Never had that great of faith in electronic stuff not to constantly verify calibration on it.

[Jack's My dog]

Sounds like I need to get a set of check weights and a beam scale.

[KeithNyst]

I've used an RCBS 5-10, a set a Lyman check weights and a cheap digital scale for quite a while. I cross-check both scales with the check weights every time I set up. I don't fire thousands of rounds a year; I hand meausure on the balance and double check on the digital every 10th round. This works fine for me. You might try ebay ... some good buys on used there if you watch and wait for the right deal.

[crbutler]

As with most goods, you get what you pay for.

A beam balance is pretty easy to make, and what you are really getting is ease of use rather than accuracy with your cash.

The electronics are really a different item. A good lab scale properly set up is more accurate than a simple beam balance; but you are talking real money there. The cheap electronics are just that, and while you may get one that works fine and is accurate, you may also get one that just cannot work.

As an aside, I think if you use check weights regularly, the cheap electronics are perfectly fine- but you won't know why they don't work when one gives up the ghost. At one time I did the double check with a beam balance, and I have never had a statistically significant discrepancy between the beam and the electronic. (RCBS, Dillon, etc.) so I don't use that anymore, although if something doesn't look right, I have 3 sitting there in case I need them. I have had to recalibrate the electronics on occasion though- but it was obvious with the check weights.

A good lab quality scale is a great comfort though...