9mm for 929

[mmcnx2]

I'm preparing to start to reload 9mm, which is a new caliber for me. I'm currently loading 38 super, 357 mag, 40 and 45 in pistol.

So I'm looking for some information (not load data) for mild to soft range loads

1. Is anyone reloading for a revolver? If so what crimp die are you using to avoid bullet jump.
2. Bullet weight preferences
3. Powder preference
4. Primer preference - any experience with hard/soft primers in a 929 (I have some experience with my 625 light striking Winchester primers)

Thanks

[Rodentman]

I load 9mm the same for all my guns, auto and revolver. I load mild to mid range and find that some bullets need to be seated deeper than others in order to cycle. I've never had an issue with the revolver.

[TSKNIGHT]

I've loaded 9mm for a Ruger Blackhawk with good results.
The Blackhawk headspaces on the shoulder and I found a taper crimp worked better than the roll crimp. Never had any problems with bullet jump with either crimp.
Case length was very critical as cases that were too long caused the cylinder to bind.

That's about all I remember. Has been a long time since I loaded any 9mm.

[Seismic Sam]

TSKNIGHT: Did you mean to say that the 9mm case headspaces on the CASE MOUTH rather than the shoulder??

As far as crimping is concerned, with an rimless straight case round you ONLY use a taper crimp. If you turn in the case mouth with a roll crimp die, you effectively shorten the length of the case and can create headspace issues. Talked to a guy on the CZ forum who has been handloading longer than me, (Reloader Fred) and he had an interesting anecdote about reloading 38 special in a revolver. The standard accuracy load was a full wadcutter bullet over about 3 grains of Bullseye, and he was NEVER able to improve upon that load no matter what he tried. For light to medium 9mm revolver loads, I suspect the same will be true. You can even use full wadcutter bullets sized to .355" dia., and there is the added benefit that you probably won't get your 9mm revolver loads mixed up with your 9mm auto loads... I don't know if a powder puff 9mm revolver load could get a bullet stuck in the barrel of a 9mm auto and still cycle the action or not. With a plugged barrel, it might be possible, and the next time you pulled the trigger might be nasty.

[mmcnx2]

TSKNIGHT: Did you mean to say that the 9mm case headspaces on the CASE MOUTH rather than the shoulder??

As far as crimping is concerned, with an rimless straight case round you ONLY use a taper crimp. If you turn in the case mouth with a roll crimp die, you effectively shorten the length of the case and can create headspace issues. Talked to a guy on the CZ forum who has been handloading longer than me, (Reloader Fred) and he had an interesting anecdote about reloading 38 special in a revolver. The standard accuracy load was a full wadcutter bullet over about 3 grains of Bullseye, and he was NEVER able to improve upon that load no matter what he tried. For light to medium 9mm revolver loads, I suspect the same will be true. You can even use full wadcutter bullets sized to .355" dia., and there is the added benefit that you probably won't get your 9mm revolver loads mixed up with your 9mm auto loads...

I totally understand the headspace issue but it gets negated in a revolver with moon clips. I reloaded full wad cutters for 38 special for decades in my youth but we roll crimped those buggers.

[Seismic Sam]

The first time I heard the term "moon clip", I thought it was a type of safety pin used by fat guys who ate WAAAYYY to much and split their pants open....

[mmcnx2]

The first time I heard the term "moon clip", I thought it was a type of safety pin used by fat guys who ate WAAAYYY to much and split their pants open....

That's the other meaning.

[TSKNIGHT]

TSKNIGHT: Did you mean to say that the 9mm case headspaces on the CASE MOUTH rather than the shoulder??

As far as crimping is concerned, with an rimless straight case round you ONLY use a taper crimp. If you turn in the case mouth with a roll crimp die, you effectively shorten the length of the case and can create headspace issues. Talked to a guy on the CZ forum who has been handloading longer than me, (Reloader Fred) and he had an interesting anecdote about reloading 38 special in a revolver. The standard accuracy load was a full wadcutter bullet over about 3 grains of Bullseye, and he was NEVER able to improve upon that load no matter what he tried. For light to medium 9mm revolver loads, I suspect the same will be true. You can even use full wadcutter bullets sized to .355" dia., and there is the added benefit that you probably won't get your 9mm revolver loads mixed up with your 9mm auto loads... I don't know if a powder puff 9mm revolver load could get a bullet stuck in the barrel of a 9mm auto and still cycle the action or not. With a plugged barrel, it might be possible, and the next time you pulled the trigger might be nasty.

Yes, thank you Sam for catching that. I'm not always the sharpest tool in the shed. LOL

The first 9mm I reloaded had extraction issues. When I looked at the fired brass, I could see a small shoulder at the case mouth. It was shortly after that, that I got some instruction from a couple of guys who had experience and knowledge of reloading beyond just reading a manual.

Haven't used moon clips so have no knowledge of them to pass on.

[usnret]

The only thing that I have heard about the moon clips is that they are brass manufacture specific.

[OldmanFCSA]

I'm preparing to start to reload 9mm, which is a new caliber for me. I'm currently loading 38 super, 357 mag, 40 and 45 in pistol.

So I'm looking for some information (not load data) for mild to soft range loads

1. Is anyone reloading for a revolver? If so what crimp die are you using to avoid bullet jump.
2. Bullet weight preferences
3. Powder preference
4. Primer preference - any experience with hard/soft primers in a 929 (I have some experience with my 625 light striking Winchester primers)

Thanks

1. Have in past. - Same taper crimp as for auto loads.
2. Some like 124 grain, I like the heavier 147 grain. For revolver only, I did size some wheel-weight cast 168 grain semi-wad-cutters down to 0.356". Don't remember the loading = just that they were very accurate at short range.
3. Bullseye or Power Pistol. Don't remember the 168 grain loading but suspect I used Win231.
4. I always use Federal Primers as they are known to be softer than rest allowing for better reading without using special pressure reading equipment. Seating primers properly will solve most of your light strike issues.

Let me know if you need more help.

[tator2k]

1) I've added a Lee Factory Crimp die to my setup. I have seen bullets walking by 7 and 8th round in moon clip.
2) Typically 124-5 gr for everything.
3) Titegroup and W231
4) If you're looking at any type of tuning to be done, Federal primers are a must.

[usnret]

I am a big fan of the Bayou bullets 160gr bullet. I have used it in my limited gun and my PCC and they are both soft shooting. I have heard that some of the revolver guys are using them also because they are soft shooting.
I E-mailed Western Powders for loads for these heavy bullets and they sent me loads for Accurate Arms #7 and Silhouette powders.