wildfan1 wrote:Glad this was posted as I planned to post something similar. ... Considering most of the smaller calibers. .223. .22-250, .220 swift, .243
Some initial thoughts to help you get started, and I'm by no means any guru in this area...
Small calibers require heavy bullets. Going to 1,000 yards may mean a heavy bullet -- one that may stick out of the brass enough to not fit in a magazine. You might have a single shot gun for it if going small-caliber. Even .308 will 'keyhole' at 1,000 yards unless it packs a good punch out of the muzzle.
There is nothing magical about 1,000 yard shooting (well, except bragging rights). Even at 600 yards, you will need to know how to read the wind and you will likely experience variant winds (wind blows light from left to right at the muzzle, is dead at 200 yards, and at 600 is gusting from right to left - what do you do?!) Once you master 600 yards, consider trying an elk hunt where the range is unknown, for a REAL challenge. The trajectory of a bullet means the drop from one distance to another, at long ranges, is surprisingly significant. Depending on the bullet and components behind it, and the barrel it's shot through, a .300 Win Mag can drop 30 to 60 inches between 200 and 500 yards. And, it only gets increasingly worse as you go out further!
Keep a log of every bullet you shoot and the conditions under which it was shot.
Know your cold barrel zero vs not-cold.
Do not trust ballistics tables for precise expectations. Make your OWN tables from your OWN experience with your particular equipment. Use a table or online calculator for reference only.
Loading your own bullets will get you to your and your equipment's optimal results.
Spend time at ranges where people shoot 300+yards and learn from them; the leg up you'll get will be priceless. Trial and error is more fun when you can reduce the trial and lower the expense of an error!
They can help you select equipment;
i.e.: what rate of twist your barrel should have for the weight of bullet you'll use, what power or brand of scope they like,
They can also help you with handloading tips.
They'll know what powders burn fast or slow.
They'll tell you which primers they like best, which powders, which bullets, which reloading dies RCBS/FORSTER/etc.
And, if you join one of their clubs, you might be able to buy your components cheaper.
Be prepared to spend a few bucks on good optics ... at or past 300 yards, it does matter quite a bit. Nightforce scope? US Optics? Swarovski?
There is no 'do all' gun that will perform for you at long range AND serve as an IDEAL hunting or defensive close range rifle. That said, your ideal long range rifle starting out is also not the ideal long range rifle you'll peak with. Invest first in your knowledge and technique before investing in fancy equipment. You're trying to become a better shooter; not move up from silver to gold at the olympics (well, not yet). For example, the difference between a Remington 700 and a 40-x will make or break a serious competitor. If you're competing mainly with yourself, the 700 is well equipped. The one thing I would recommend on one for an upgrade would be a new, adjustable trigger; maybe a Timney.
Take a trip to Camp Perry. It's in Ohio. You'll meet the best of the best there.
NEVER feel you know it all. None of us does!
Check out forums and information on
http://www.longrangehunting.com/Get a good book on the topic
http://www.amazon.com/Gun-Digest-Book-L ... 0896894711Don't stop there; make it the first in your library on the subject.
Google Major John Plaster and learn from his books and videos.
I don't know a lot on the subject, so keep asking!
Have fun!
-Grant