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Couldn't you use a laser leve ( i already own)to paint a line on the wall to get the cross hairs lined up. I have a small level for the upper.

Ghost wrote:

Rip Van Winkle wrote:I use unemployed Malaysian slave labor (the younger the better).

You guys can be so cruel.

Still talking about gun accessories?

No peeking.

Looking at the quality of those I think that I will stay with my Wheeler levels.

Ghost wrote:

brad3579 wrote:How many people use levels when mounting there scopes?
I have a Tipton vise and a Wheeler set like this and have been quite happy with my results looking thru the bore and adjusting the scope to match.

The attachment p_100012251_1.jpg is no longer available

I use these

https://www.amazon.com/Darice-91095-01-Level-Picture-Hanging/dp/B0054G62KW/ref=sr_1_4?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1519341536&sr=1-4&keywords=bubble+level&tag=pda0ea-20

yukonjasper wrote:Couldn't you use a laser leve ( i already own)to paint a line on the wall to get the cross hairs lined up. I have a small level for the upper.

You should level the gun before mounting and leveling the scope.

brad3579 wrote:

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Looking at the quality of those I think that I will stay with my Wheeler levels.

Ghost wrote:

brad3579 wrote:How many people use levels when mounting there scopes?
I have a Tipton vise and a Wheeler set like this and have been quite happy with my results looking thru the bore and adjusting the scope to match.

p_100012251_1.jpg

I use these

https://www.amazon.com/Darice-91095-01-Level-Picture-Hanging/dp/B0054G62KW/ref=sr_1_4?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1519341536&sr=1-4&keywords=bubble+level&tag=pda0ea-20

Thing is it only takes one. Set it on the rail then set it on the scope. If it's the same you are good to go.

You can try the old school way. If that doesn’t work, you can buy any old cheap laser bore sight. Just make sure it’s caliber specific and fits in the chamber instead of a magnet at the end of the muzzle. Don’t want anything touching the muzzle/crown. Then, just adjust the crosshairs to the dot on target. You aren’t looking to zero without shooting, but this will get you pretty damn close to bullseye. Then, confirm and make micro adjustments with live fire.

Once you get "on the paper" All you will need to do is the "One Shot Sight In".

Leveling the rifle has always been the toughest for me. What I have found is that the way I hold a particular rifle in the field and the way it sits straight in a vise can be two completely different things.

Holland&Holland wrote:Leveling the rifle has always been the toughest for me. What I have found is that the way I hold a particular rifle in the field and the way it sits straight in a vise can be two completely different things.

I have in the past hung a string line from the ceiling to confirm that I'm level with the world via the scope. The scope really should be square to the rifle though.

Ghost wrote:

Holland&Holland wrote:Leveling the rifle has always been the toughest for me. What I have found is that the way I hold a particular rifle in the field and the way it sits straight in a vise can be two completely different things.

I have in the past hung a string line from the ceiling to confirm that I'm level with the world via the scope. The scope really should be square to the rifle though.

See I question that, because a barrel is round and gravity does not care what access the barrel is so is it not more important for the scope to be square to the word in the relation to the rotation of the barrel? I have always been told that a natural hold where one is not forcing a gun to move and conform to a specific position is the most accurate so if when I shoulder the weapon and the scope is square and the rifle comes up to my eye right then would that not be the best regardless if the rifle is slightly canted?

Holland&Holland wrote:

Ghost wrote:

Holland&Holland wrote:Leveling the rifle has always been the toughest for me. What I have found is that the way I hold a particular rifle in the field and the way it sits straight in a vise can be two completely different things.

I have in the past hung a string line from the ceiling to confirm that I'm level with the world via the scope. The scope really should be square to the rifle though.

See I question that, because a barrel is round and gravity does not care what access the barrel is so is it not more important for the scope to be square to the word in the relation to the rotation of the barrel? I have always been told that a natural hold where one is not forcing a gun to move and conform to a specific position is the most accurate so if when I shoulder the weapon and the scope is square and the rifle comes up to my eye right then would that not be the best regardless if the rifle is slightly canted?

What about if you run a 20 moa mount?

Edit to add: also are we talking turret adjustable scopes or old hunting rifles sighted for one distance?

Ghost wrote:What about if you run a 20 moa mount?

That is a good point. At that point I would switch to a 6.5 Gerndal because the superiority of it would overcome all obstacles for me.

I typically am talking hunting rigs that are being used in various shooting positions. If I was looking at something at that distance I would guess it would be being shot sandbagged, or from a bipod, or in a sled in which case you would want your mount in alignment with your bore and all square in its natural resting position.

Holland&Holland wrote:

Ghost wrote:What about if you run a 20 moa mount?

That is a good point. At that point I would switch to a 6.5 Gerndal because the superiority of it would overcome all obstacles for me.

I typically am talking hunting rigs that are being used in various shooting positions. If I was looking at something at that distance I would guess it would be being shot sandbagged, or from a bipod, or in a sled in which case you would want your mount in alignment with your bore and all square in its natural resting position.

That’s the thing. Someday when you buy your grendel and it’s factory zeroed for a mile but the t-Rex is only a half mile out and you dial down, you’ll have to do some trigonometry in order to hit where you are aiming as you’ll have to account for the cant of the scope to the rifle.

Ghost wrote:

Holland&Holland wrote:

Ghost wrote:What about if you run a 20 moa mount?

That is a good point. At that point I would switch to a 6.5 Gerndal because the superiority of it would overcome all obstacles for me.

I typically am talking hunting rigs that are being used in various shooting positions. If I was looking at something at that distance I would guess it would be being shot sandbagged, or from a bipod, or in a sled in which case you would want your mount in alignment with your bore and all square in its natural resting position.

That’s the thing. Someday when you buy your grendel and it’s factory zeroed for a mile but the t-Rex is only a half mile out and you dial down, you’ll have to do some trigonometry in order to hit where you are aiming as you’ll have to account for the cant of the scope to the rifle.

How do you think I keep my mind sharp as I age?

And so be it for you but youngsters nowadays only do math by swiping up from the bottom of their cell phone. This could allow t-Rex to escape.