White tail. What do you use?

[RAGGED]

Sako Finbear .270. If I had time to go...

I personally never understood the 270, for me it makes much more sense to go on the larger side if you are going to carry a long action, you can always run a lighter bullet if recoil is an issue, but having the option of going on that big game hunt down the road and knowing you are more than covered seems to make sense. Most guys I know that shoot 270 always shoot rounds on the larger end of the spectrum, never dropping down to the smaller stuff, in my opinion it would make more sense to bump up in size and shoot lighter stuff, but to each his own I guess.



Rifle Zone I run a Sako Finbear 7mag
Shotgun Zone I run a Savage 210F, bolt action, rifled bbl 12ga slug gun

If money is available this year I will build a AR pistol in 6.8 SPC, 11-12" bbl, should be just fine for my 25-150yd encounters is the slug zone. The reason id like to get away from the slugs is my go to slug went thru a change last year and now only groups 2-3" @ 100 yards when previous years stuff would often have 3 slugs touching @ 100 yds, as an avid reloader I hate being at the mercy of ammunition mfgs and I’m not about to spend $200 to try every slug out there again.

[rugersol]

If money is available this year I will build a AR pistol in 6.8 SPC, 11-12" bbl, should be just fine for my 25-150yd encounters is the slug zone.

Jest a bit OT ... and I got a 6.8 and like it ... jest wondering why ya wouldn't take yer own advice and go with a .300 Whisper/Blackout?

No joke on the sabots!

[RAGGED]

If money is available this year I will build a AR pistol in 6.8 SPC, 11-12" bbl, should be just fine for my 25-150yd encounters is the slug zone.

Jest a bit OT ... and I got a 6.8 and like it ... jest wondering why ya wouldn't take yer own advice and go with a .300 Whisper/Blackout?

No joke on the sabots!

I like the flat shooting of the 6.8 SPC, the .300's are pretty much made for suppressed use, even loaded supersonic they don't have the energy that a 6.8 has at range (lets say 200yds) and I'm not entirely sure how well the majority of 30 cal bullets will expand on game at Whisper velocities when over 100 yds, my slug rifle was a solid 150yd gun and id like its replacement to be that or better, does that make sense?

[rugersol]

If money is available this year I will build a AR pistol in 6.8 SPC, 11-12" bbl, should be just fine for my 25-150yd encounters is the slug zone.

Jest a bit OT ... and I got a 6.8 and like it ... jest wondering why ya wouldn't take yer own advice and go with a .300 Whisper/Blackout?

No joke on the sabots!

I like the flat shooting of the 6.8 SPC, the .300's are pretty much made for suppressed use, even loaded supersonic they don't have the energy that a 6.8 has at range (lets say 200yds) and I'm not entirely sure how well the majority of 30 cal bullets will expand on game at Whisper velocities when over 100 yds, my slug rifle was a solid 150yd gun and id like its replacement to be that or better, does that make sense?

Yep!

I figured Remington and Hornady were makin' bullets appropriate fer their intended uses (supersonic, good expansion up to 200yd) ... couldn't say fer sure, though!

.30 FTX?

'Bout the same boat with the .270 bullets? ... 'less ya stick with the 110's? ... even then?

[RAGGED]

I figured Remington and Hornady were makin' bullets appropriate fer their intended uses (supersonic, good expansion up to 200yd) ... couldn't say fer sure, though!

.30 FTX?

'Bout the same boat with the .270 bullets? ... 'less ya stick with the 110's? ... even then?

I know there are 30 cals made for that application, thus why I said the majority, most are not Also even if you get the bullet right you still have a pretty lofty curve out to 200, you’re going to have 7" or so in POI change from 50-200yds, where as a 2400FPS 110 will see about a 2" spread from 50-200yds with a 175yd Zero, I like the point and pull feature of the 6.8, if it’s an accurate shooter you shouldn't have to do any real holding till past 200yds
There is a few 110-120gr options what work well with the 2400FPS I'd likely see from a 11.5" bbl, with the much higher MV and BC the 6.8 is simply a better option for someone wanting a 200yd pistol, if you know your stand only has a 50yd shot at best hit-em with the thumper!

[antimatter]

Sako Finbear .270. If I had time to go...

I personally never understood the 270, for me it makes much more sense to go on the larger side if you are going to carry a long action, you can always run a lighter bullet if recoil is an issue, but having the option of going on that big game hunt down the road and knowing you are more than covered seems to make sense. Most guys I know that shoot 270 always shoot rounds on the larger end of the spectrum, never dropping down to the smaller stuff, in my opinion it would make more sense to bump up in size and shoot lighter stuff, but to each his own I guess.

It makes a lot of sense if paid $0.00 for the rifle because you inherited it. I also have a 7mm Mauser, a 30-06 Springfield 1903, and a .250 Savage that will all do the job. But Dad left me the Finbear and a butt-load of .270 ammo, and it just feels right to me, so it gets the nod.

I agree that if I was starting from scratch, I'd probably look at a caliber with a bit more flexibility.

[RAGGED]

It makes a lot of sense if paid $0.00 for the rifle because you inherited it.

I also got my 1960's Finnbear as a hand me down from my father, easily my most cherished firearm.

[Shipyard]

if you're hunting 1/2 hr east of hinkley you're not too far from where i hunt in WI.

in these areas, you're not going to be taking 300+ yd shots. unless you got a private tract with shooting lanes dug in...

as far as rifles go, for bolt guns i 100% reccomend a Tikka T3 lightweight hunter over a rem 700, win or S&W bolt. VERY nice rifles for the money, and fantastic to carry all day. i'll take mine to the grave for levers, the marlin 336 all the way. they're beautiful, accurate and indestructable.

as far as chamberings go, .243 or above would probably be reccomended, but 30-06, 7mm etc is a LOT of gun for dense woods where you're probably only taking 80 yd shots at the top end of the range. i've never had to pop one over 50 yds on side side of the state line...

i use a 30-06 because i have a dream of someday elk hunting and didn't want to buy 2 guns. if i had it to do over, i'd proably go with a .243 or if i had the cash for something nice a 25-06

my $0.02

[1911fan]

If you're gonna stick with store bought ammo, go to the Goose hill or Joes, or where ever you shop and price ammo..

Ammo prices are crazy now, and going to stay that way I believe. So 300 savage ammo runs $30 or more a box, where as stuff like 6.5 swede runs $40 or more a box and .30-30 can be down in the $15 a box range and .308, .243, 30-06 can be around $20. If you're gonna be a fudd where you shoot one box every 10 years, then ammo costs don't matter. If you're gonna shoot the gun a bit, well, then looking at ammo costs up front can alter your decision making processes.

Recoil. I don't know how much you shoot, but recoil will come into question for practice if you get a larger round. If you're a newb, then get a mild recoiling round.
My fav'es for hunting rounds for pretty much anything on the lower 48 are .257 roberts, 250 savage, 6.5 swede, 7 mauser, and 7-08 rem, They shoot well, they don't kick, and they are all very accurate. Notice that all except the 7-08 are on what ammo makers call the "seasonal" list, meaning they are made sporadically, and unless you reload, they are going to be difficult to find at times, and somewhat more costly.

Deer are not hard to kill. My father killed hundreds during the depression to feed his family using a 32-20 pump gun. energy wise, thats about the same as a .327 federal, which a lot of people think is too small for self defense. Shooting them where they die fast is a skill and requires like any skill, practice. if you consider the animal a big billboard and you just have to slam one in the side, well, then practice might not be so important. I am one who takes great care and pride in killing animals quickly and without wasting meat.

My personal deer rifle is a 1950's era Savage 99 lever gun in 300 savage. I load it to about mid way between the starter loads and the max loads in the books and I am very confident in its ability to kill deer and not ruin an excessive amount of meat. Sure by loading it down, I do not get the best ballistics, but its very accurate and its very good at killing deer. Using paper ballistics can get you into trouble, and accepting the hype that advertising can bring will also get you into trouble. I read the hype for a few years and believed it. I got older and less gullible and I watched what the older guys in my camp where shooting. I have killed a lot of deer, and our camp has killed a lot of deer and I will say that of the guns we use, only one is an 30-06, one .280, the rest, a 6.5 swede, a couple of .250 savages, a couple of .300 Savages and a .257 bob.

While chamberings like the .270 and the .25 06 are very good, they are for most of the hunting done in Mn more than you need. They are great prairie guns, great mountain guns, where getting a 4-600 yard shot is not only possible, but common, they excell. In Mn, unless your shooting on a power-line or a mongo clear cut, getting shots of that distance are unlikely, and the energy needed to kill cleanly at 400 yards means an excess at 45 yards. Shredded shoulders, blood shot meat all over, are not the best way to get your meat home.

[TommyMN]

if you're hunting 1/2 hr east of hinkley you're not too far from where i hunt in WI.

in these areas, you're not going to be taking 300+ yd shots. unless you got a private tract with shooting lanes dug in...

as far as rifles go, for bolt guns i 100% reccomend a Tikka T3 lightweight hunter over a rem 700, win or S&W bolt. VERY nice rifles for the money, and fantastic to carry all day. i'll take mine to the grave for levers, the marlin 336 all the way. they're beautiful, accurate and indestructable.

as far as chamberings go, .243 or above would probably be reccomended, but 30-06, 7mm etc is a LOT of gun for dense woods where you're probably only taking 80 yd shots at the top end of the range. i've never had to pop one over 50 yds on side side of the state line...

i use a 30-06 because i have a dream of someday elk hunting and didn't want to buy 2 guns. if i had it to do over, i'd proably go with a .243 or if i had the cash for something nice a 25-06

my $0.02

thank you also for the advise. guessed around 300. near hinckley area i wont be getting near there, just would like the option cause i also have access to an area just north of hibbing where 300+ is done, with shooting lanes and big fields every where. wont be my normal ground but it is an option and i dont think i want 2 different rifles. i'll have to look into the tikka's and their price.

[TommyMN]

If you're gonna stick with store bought ammo, go to the Goose hill or Joes, or where ever you shop and price ammo..

Ammo prices are crazy now, and going to stay that way I believe. So 300 savage ammo runs $30 or more a box, where as stuff like 6.5 swede runs $40 or more a box and .30-30 can be down in the $15 a box range and .308, .243, 30-06 can be around $20. If you're gonna be a fudd where you shoot one box every 10 years, then ammo costs don't matter. If you're gonna shoot the gun a bit, well, then looking at ammo costs up front can alter your decision making processes.

Recoil. I don't know how much you shoot, but recoil will come into question for practice if you get a larger round. If you're a newb, then get a mild recoiling round.
My fav'es for hunting rounds for pretty much anything on the lower 48 are .257 roberts, 250 savage, 6.5 swede, 7 mauser, and 7-08 rem, They shoot well, they don't kick, and they are all very accurate. Notice that all except the 7-08 are on what ammo makers call the "seasonal" list, meaning they are made sporadically, and unless you reload, they are going to be difficult to find at times, and somewhat more costly.

Deer are not hard to kill. My father killed hundreds during the depression to feed his family using a 32-20 pump gun. energy wise, thats about the same as a .327 federal, which a lot of people think is too small for self defense. Shooting them where they die fast is a skill and requires like any skill, practice. if you consider the animal a big billboard and you just have to slam one in the side, well, then practice might not be so important. I am one who takes great care and pride in killing animals quickly and without wasting meat.

My personal deer rifle is a 1950's era Savage 99 lever gun in 300 savage. I load it to about mid way between the starter loads and the max loads in the books and I am very confident in its ability to kill deer and not ruin an excessive amount of meat. Sure by loading it down, I do not get the best ballistics, but its very accurate and its very good at killing deer. Using paper ballistics can get you into trouble, and accepting the hype that advertising can bring will also get you into trouble. I read the hype for a few years and believed it. I got older and less gullible and I watched what the older guys in my camp where shooting. I have killed a lot of deer, and our camp has killed a lot of deer and I will say that of the guns we use, only one is an 30-06, one .280, the rest, a 6.5 swede, a couple of .250 savages, a couple of .300 Savages and a .257 bob.

While chamberings like the .270 and the .25 06 are very good, they are for most of the hunting done in Mn more than you need. They are great prairie guns, great mountain guns, where getting a 4-600 yard shot is not only possible, but common, they excell. In Mn, unless your shooting on a power-line or a mongo clear cut, getting shots of that distance are unlikely, and the energy needed to kill cleanly at 400 yards means an excess at 45 yards. Shredded shoulders, blood shot meat all over, are not the best way to get your meat home.

wont be hunting crazy but would like the option to shoot as much i can to hone down some better skills. as for recoil. i'm not to sensitive. dont shoot alot but have shot a fair share of 12 gauge and some larger rifles including a few whacks of a 50 bmg on a tri. nothing really made me flinch that i noticed. hoping with more shooting and more time i can keep it that way.

[1911fan]

Look real are at the .260 rem and the 7-08 rem. The .260 is a modernized 6.5 swede and the 7-08 is a modernized 7 Mauser. Both are very accurate, both are very easy on the shoulder and almost every decent rifle out there is chambered for them. Just because you can withstand recoil doesn't make it something to go looking for.

[rugersol]

Look real are at the .260 rem and the 7-08 rem. The .260 is a modernized 6.5 swede and the 7-08 is a modernized 7 Mauser. Both are very accurate, both are very easy on the shoulder and almost every decent rifle out there is chambered for them. Just because you can withstand recoil doesn't make it something to go looking for.

Ain't seen too many .260's on the racks ... in fact, I don't know that I've ever seen even one of 'em. Might have an easier time finding 6.5 Creedmoor.

I'd take the 6.5 Swede, anyhow ... no problems with heavier bullets.

I'd take either a 7x57 or a 7mm-08.

Them, 'er a .308 would be fine, too ... as would .30-30 and .35 Rem.

.338 Fed. would be a bit much, but I wouldn't mind.

7mm-08 is too easy!

[SAM]

Mostly 12 guage. Over the years I have hunted with a .357 revolver and a .41 rem. mag. revolver. Even with the .357 I've never had a whitetail go much farther 20 yards before expiring. With the 12 guage they don't get that far.

[farmerj]

IF you are going to really be limited to under 200 yards, I would actually go with a big slow and dumb.

.35 Rem, .30-30, 300 savage or something like that.

One of the issues you run into is if you get a short shot, under 125 yards really, some of those high performance bullets are outside (read that as too close) their range to work and expand the way they are designed to.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/woods_rifles.htm

Some more light reading for you.


And then you have the ever educational "Box o Truth"
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot40.htm