grease vs. oil

[CZscout]

I learned a GREAT lesson last weekend - Grease VS Oil:

My M1A and AR-15 are spotless and have always run 100% - I had put many rounds through them.

This summer I switched to full synthetic mobile 1 grease to lube slides, bolt contact areas etc... (normal amount)

The weather was COLD!!!!!

My M1A cycled the bolt and loaded the next round, but DID NOT re-set the hammer. It was not cycling all the way back.
My AR-15 would fire the first round, then mis-feed the second round - EVERY TIME. It was also not cycling all the way.

The grease seemed to slow things down enough with both rifles to cause issues in the cold.

Back to good old Outers Gun Oil for me.

[Lights]

I only use STP as a lube on most sliding or rotating parts. I apply it with my finger and remove almost all of it with my bare hand. But it leaves a vary fine film on the surface that does not get to stiff when cold. The only part I do not use it on is the firing pin. I have yet to have my 1911 or my AR malfunction in cold (10 deg. f or warmer) weather yet. I prefer to not hunt/shoot if it is colder than that.

[wrench]

In the winter, shooting outdoors, I use Mobil 1 and have never had any problems. Summer, I use my own patented blend of 50/50 ATF and engine assembly lube. Very clingy, lasts a long time on parts and guns in storage. Which I guess what engine assembly lube was designed to do.
I agree with the other posters about using regular automotive grease, too. I've got a couple of tubes of different kinds, they all seem to work fine, and I've got several lifetimes supply.

[crbutler]

I don't know- There is a difference, but I do question a functional difference except with cold.

I used EEzox (which is supposed to be a dry film lubricant) on my duck gun bolt and this caused all kinds of light primer strikes when the weather got below 30 F. The bolt also would not fully cycle (this with rather hot 3.5" factory loads)

I tried using a really light machine oil intended for subzero use, and tried some loads that BPI said were for hunting in below 20 F, same thing.

When it gets below freezing for hunting guns I degrease the sucker and run it dry. No failures to fire or feed. While I expect some added wear, you just plain don't shoot as much when its that cold- but you do need to religiously clean the gun each night or you will see some rust.

In warm (hot) weather, grease works well on sliding components. Plain old break free works well for everything else.

Also, it doesn't matter what kind or how much lube you put on it, you shoot it enough and you will see wear. I tended to over lube stuff because I was trying to protect against damage and rust; found out that I was overdoing it when I ran my one open gun for 2 months without cleaning it; when I did it looked like the pits of hades, but was still working fine and all that I had to do to clean the parts was wipe with a clean cloth. I think we all over lube these things- except for the few who put "just one drop" on.

I will say that there is a difference in feel in a tight 1911 with no lube, motor mica, scant amount of oil, heavy oil, and grease; but my experience is that its just that- a difference in feel, not a difference in function- although with no lube you do see some accelerated wear.

[cobb]

Super Lube is recommend by Rohrbaugh for their handguns, at least it was when I got mine several years ago.

[BigDog58]

I've used White Lithium Grease on my guns for years. But, during the coldest months I use a grease called Krytox (not sure of spelling as it has worn off container). It is a grease that we used on aircraft and was especially good in places where the aircraft would get "cold-soaked" to temps of -65 F. I've used it on the slides of my Glocks, semi auto rifles and shotguns, and on the triggers of my revolvers. I have shot at temps as low as 20 F and have not had it cause any malfunctions.
I just don't know if it's available to average consumer (never bought it) as I had my supply in my tool box from when I retired from aviation in 2003. I think the 2lb tub I have, will most likely last me a lifetime.

[Jack's My dog]

I think I am a bit of a caveman and just use Rem-oil for everything. My Franchi 712 is the only thing that really spends much time in the cold. It cycled just fine on Sunday in 9 degrees with frost building up on the receiver where I was carrying it. I have had some cycling failures in the cold, but I think this was only one more factor added to the end of the season-oil, dirt, cattail and stick soup inside the receiver. I am not sure than my gun has tight enough tolerances for it to matter which lube I use.

[RJWesleyIII]

I use Amsoil MP spray on all my guns. It dries and leaves a light film. It displaces moisture and protects from rusting. I also use G-lube. I've never had a gun not fire below 0.


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[AFTERMATH]

Grease on all heavy bearing surfaces(bolts, slides, etc..) - It stays where you put it and provides better wear resistance and smoother operation than oil.

Oil on smaller moving parts & springs(trigger assy, mag catch, etc.) - it penetrates into hard to reach areas and does not create as much fluid resistance as grease. Also, makes for better corrosion resistance because of its penetrating properties.

Dry film/graphite - No real experience, but I'm not convinced.


I generally stick with grease on everything that I can stick it on, usually a lighter grease.
Has served me well all seasons, in many environments - if it's cold or sandy, I just put less on.

If you don't shoot a whole lot - oil or grease it really doesn't matter very much get some on there if the gun operates you're good to go. If not, try something else. But, if you're going to be going through 500 rounds in a weekend, you're gonna want something a little more persistent than oil.

Just be careful with the multi-purpose clp type stuff. As they break down over time. Imagine trying to clean and season a frying pan simultaneously by using a mixture of Dawn and vegetable oil. Not that I never use CLP, but if I'm seriously cleaning - I use a cleaner(hoppes or something), a lubricant(grease) and protectant(oil).

[DanM]

Grant Cunningham is a well known gunsmith, writer, and trainer. The link is to an article he wrote about his research/experience with gun lubes. Read the article for his recommendations.

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Excerpts:

I use the General Rule of Lubrication: oil for rotating parts, grease for sliding parts that carry a load.

Motor oils: Generally good boundary lubrication (particularly the Havoline formulations), but very poor corrosion resistance and poor resistance to open-air oxidation.

Gear oils: Too thick for the application.

WD-40: WD-40 was never meant to be a lubricant - it was designed as a moisture displacer. Just. Don't.

Automotive motor oil additives: By themselves? No.

Silicone spray: Right up there with WD-40, but at least it'll shed water while your parts grind themselves into little shavings!

Graphite: (sprays, powders) Graphite is a crystalline product which is actually very slightly abrasive. Save it for your keys and padlocks.

Edited to add: Here is a link to the products that he recommends/uses;

http://www.lubrikit.com/