How re-blue or blacken mag release button

[tweener]

I ground down my LCP mag release buton, because it would get pressed while in my pocket too often.....


(Please do not tell my why I should have not done that, or done something else instead.....that is not what this thread is about, and I don't care that YOU don't like modifying YOUR gun)

I am wondering if anyone knows a good substance to apply to the bare metal, to re-blacken or re-blue it. I really could care less about the exact way it looks, just want it not to rust, and look DARK, and hopefully last at least a few months before I have to re-apply... currently I have just blackened it with a sharpie marker....which lasts a couple days..

[Stradawhovious]

You shouldn't have done that. You should have done something else instead. you made that waaaaaayyyy too easy.





They have liquid cold blue, and bluing touchup pens that might work for you, providing it's real steel, and not stainless......

[tweener]

whos got that stuff in town?

[Stradawhovious]

What town?

[tweener]

sorry!!!

Mpls and surrounding.....

I personally live on the west side.......

[Stradawhovious]

Check at the GunStop in Minnetonka. Also, as much as I try not to give them business I know that Gander has some as well. Most places like Dicks or Cabela's will have it as well. And lastly, I have a bottle of Birchwood Casey Super Blue you can have if you make it a point of being at the same place at the same time as I am. I'm not sure that the mag release of the LCP is real steel though, you may want to check on that.........

[tweener]

I will check.....it is a brand new gun......deffinitely steel...not plastic..might be stainless.....Generally, doesn't a magnet NOT STICK to Stainless? I can't imagine they would use stainless

[Stradawhovious]

It very well could be, Fact is I honestly don't know I was thinking more along the lines of aluminum or something like that, but like you said, a magnet does stick to it (Just checked.... )......... Hope it works out for the best! Let me know if you want that bottle of cold blue.

[Rip Van Winkle]

Te easiest way to touch up a small part.

Birchwood Casey
Super Black Touch Up Pens

[onebohemian]

Te easiest way to touch up a small part.

Birchwood Casey
Super Black Touch Up Pens

I haven't had any luck with those pens. The paint softened and rubbed/washed out of the repaired scratches. The larger flat areas were even worse. The paint got sticky and residue rubbed off onto my hands whenever it was touched. This happended after gently rubbing the rifle down with a little plain gun oil.

Better to use some liquid blue to touch up that mag release. You can put numerous coats of the blue on to get it darker. When it's the way you want it, soak the part in gun metal to "seal" it up. All the Ganders and most other gun shops carry the birchwood casey liquid blue. With a small part like the mag release, you can literally dip it into the solution, rinse it with water, dip into solution, etc., etc., until it's as dark as you want it.

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I've got lots of experience with cold bluing as a method of touching up areas where tbe bluing has thinned on military firearms. Provided the part is carbon steel and not stainless, there are several products available. I have had good luck with Brownells "Oxpho Blue" available at any local Cabelas, and "TetraBlue" available at Midway USA (order online). Both create a black or bluish black color, as opposed to Birchwood Casey's "Superblue" which is less effective and leaves the surface charcoal grey in color. Many claim success using Blue Wonder's cold bluing products. The secret is in the preparation (cleaning) of the part. Cold bluing touchup is best done when the parts you want to blue are disassembled from the gun, especially because it's easier to get the water off after the rinsing step.

1) clean the part with denatured alcohol. Incomplete cleaning retard bluing or causes uneven darkening. Never touch the clean part with fingers or invisible oil residue left will prevent bluing. Use CLEAN gloves to handle parts.
2) use a hot air gun to heat the part to about 140 degrees.
3) apply the bluing acid to the area with Q-tip or cotton swab.
4) LIGHTLY brush the area with 0000 steel wool to even out the color variations and apply acid again, 5) rinse thoroughly with lots of cold water. Dry parts off with rag immediately. Leaving acid will cause rust. Repeat steps 2-4 to further darken the metal.
6) apply oil (motor oil) to the area and wait for 24 hours (blued finish hardens in 1 day). Bluing will be one shade darker after a day with oil on it.
7) wipe off excess oil... done!

Be advised that cold bluing is a finish that is not as hard as original hot bluing, and will wear off sooner, especially from handling with your hands (acidic oils in fingerprints). The finish is only a few microns deep. It sounds like this part on your gun is subject to continuous wear, and bluing it will be a routine part of maintenance.

[MisterOblivious]

I've got lots of experience with cold bluing as a method of touching up areas where tbe bluing has thinned on military firearms. Provided the part is carbon steel and not stainless, there are several products available. I have had good luck with Brownells "Oxpho Blue" available at any local Cabelas, and "TetraBlue" available at Midway USA (order online). Both creat a black or bluish black color, as opposed to Birchwood Casey's "Superblue" which is less effective and leaves the surface charcoal grey in color. Many claim success using Blue Wonder's cold bluing products. The secret is in the preparation (cleaning) of the part. Cold bluing touchup is best done when the parts you want to blue are disassembled from the gun, especially because it's easier to get the water off after the rinsing step.

1) clean the part with denatured alcohol. Incomplete cleaning retard bluing or causes uneven darkening. Never touch the clean part with fingers or invisible oil residue left will prevent bluing. Use CLEAN gloves to handle parts.
2) use a hot air gun to heat the part to about 140 degrees.
3) apply the bluing acid to the area with Q-tip or cotton swab.
4) LIGHTLY brush the area with 0000 steel wool to even out the color variations and apply acid again, 5) rinse thoroughly with lots of cold water. Dry parts off with rag immediately. Leaving acid will cause rust. Repeat steps 2-4 to further darken the metal.
6) apply oil (motor oil) to the area and wait for 24 hours (blued finish hardens in 1 day). Bluing will be one shade darker after a day with oil on it.
7) wipe off excess oil... done!

Be advised that cold bluing is a finish that is not as hard as original hot bluing, and will wear off sooner, especially from handling with your hands (acidic oils in fingerprints). The finish is only a few microns deep. It sounds like this part on your gun is subject to continuous wear, and bluing it will be a routine part of maintenance.

Nice advice. I'd just add not to use "rubbing alcohol" as it can contain oils. A few drops evaporated on a clean mirror will show if there is any oil in the alcohol.