plink wrote:I think it's about that time. Kinda digging around trying to figure out what I need to be looking for in a safe. I've checked on used ones, and half the time the price doesn't seem to be much better. Blanket rule is as always, you get what you pay for.
-Door lock bolts thickness- minimum? On most safes, a smart thief may realize there is less total steel to cut through if he goes in the side panel rather than cutting every single hardened door bolt. Honestly, if your thief brought all the necessary tools to cut the bolts or through the side, he is taking your stuff no matter what kind of safe you bought. This scenario seems pretty unlikely given the size of plasma cutters, torch rigs, big grinders, etc.
-Do you need door lock bolts or do steel plank style work just fine? How secure is "secure" for you? Bolts would seem stronger, but if this is just to keep kiddo out, maybe not necesary.
-Insulation? What's cheesy, what's good? Most fire rated safes just have a layer of "fire board" or sheetrock/gypsum board in them. Mine is not insulated for two reasons. I can build a much better insulating layer around the outside of it if I choose, and two, if the Fire doesn't cook my stuff, the fire department will give it a nice 5 day bath and ruin it anyway. Personal preference . (I'm guessing this is like buying sleeping bags. "Rated for 0 degrees" Is it really?)
-I don't like my safe to run on batteries, but if you have an argument for a digital dial, please share. I'm with ya. Electronics fail, and using a huge gun safe as a "quick access" safe doesn't make much sense to me personally anyway. Lots of scenarios come to mind where having an electronic lock makes me nervous.
-Thicker steel = better steel. Yes? Yes. But the hardness of the steel is also critical. Is the safe plain old mild steel or is it hardened to resist drilling, grind, cutting? There are lots of grading systems for steel hardness. The AR one is popular (AR400, AR500, for example) and there are several others, so it takes a little legwork to make comparisons.
-What am I missing? Safe configuration - how many long guns, how many drawers, how many shelves... there are rotary safes, safes that break down into a door and 5 pieces (Zanotti Armor makes those) so you can move the safe yourself. Waterproofing safes (some seal watertight all the time, some have weatherstrip type material that swells when wet. Weight - some houses floor joists aren't meant for the load of a big safe. Get with somebody who KNOWS their stuff here. If you have 2''x6'' floor joists on 24'' centers, I probably wouldn't recommend a 2000lb jeweler's safe sits on that floor!
-Good brands, bad brands? Mine is a Zanotti Armor. It gives up some in total security, but in my situation that is fine. What it does offer is the chance to take it apart and move it to a different room relatively easily. It is still far better than a simple Stack On locker in terms of theft deterrence, but it is no jewler's safe. Good Luck in the shopping!