Rebluing

[Mike_Ert]

Hey folks,

I just picked up a surplus IMI Jericho 941. I really quite happy with it considering it was a internet purchase and wasn't sure exactly what I would be getting.

That being said. I would like to get the finished reblued.

I have done some research on dyi rebluing, specifically the hot salt method. It doesn't seem to be too tough. Has anyone tried it? Any horror stories?

The other option of course is to take it in. Would anyone have any recommendations on a local metro area shop to reblue it for me?

[Ironbear]

Sorry, no answer for blueing; but if I was in your position I would probably experiment with DIY Duracoat or Ceracoat. A coworker has been looking into it, this week.

[aprilian]

I have had passable results with using a heat gun to prewarm the part and cold bluing with Brownell's Oxpho-blue (not sure I have the name exactly right). I just sanded all the finish off a screw last night and didn't bother to heat the part before using the cold blue and it looked fine (for a screw).

The heating and Brownell's touched up a crap ebay barrel well enough to have it out in public.

Ahlman's in Morristown will do hot bluing for you, not sure on price, as I chose Duracoat on another project.

[LarryFlew]

Have not had one done but have seen an Ahlman's blue job and ti looked great.

[crbutler]

IMO bluing is entirely dependent on the metal prep done before you actually do the bluing.

With what you are talking about...do you want a new appearance to the gun? If so, I would have someone professional do it. Ahlmans have done well by me with some shotguns. If you are after something presentation grade, someone like Jim Kobe in Bloomington would be an option, but he's more custom rifles.

If all you are after is a protective finish, doing it yourself would be fun, but expect that you may have to redo it once you see the mistakes you made. Doing a coating (duracoat et al) would be less work for that result, but may not "look right" to you. Bluing is easy in concept, but difficult in the details.

[Mike_Ert]

This was the process I was thinking about trying. I suppose, I could give it a shot and if it turned out like crap I could get it professionally done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_IeMl6R8fc

[Mike_Ert]

Here is the gun BTW. Still dirty as sin but not bad for $239 shipped!

http://imgur.com/a/91Lng

[BigDog58]

I just used the Duracoat "DuraBlue" and it looks good. But, it seems to scratch fairly easy. This was on a 34" x 1.750" 50 BMG barrel. YMMV

[bleukahuna]

A couple of problems with nitre bluing. Because of the high heat involved, it's not recommended for things like frames or slides.
It is also a very fragile finish, it will be rubbed off after you holster the piece a few times. I use nitre bluing on non-critical pins and screws. I don't know what temp the guy in the video had his bath at, but when I run mine at the recommended 800-850 temps, it only takes 2-3 minutes to achieve the desired colors.
All finishes are dependent on the prep and polishing, and one of best that you can do at home is rust bluing, it's a lot of work, but the results are worth it. Using Mark Lee express blue you could probably do a handgun in a day, it usually takes me 3-4 days to do a rifle or shotgun(as opposed to a month using traditional solutions and techniques)
Brownells website is a great resource for gun finishing, and their free tech line is happy to answer any questions you may have.

[P3 Orion]

I have had very good success using the Mark Lee Express Blue. Brownells sells, I think 16 oz for about $20.00. After all the prep is done it takes me about 4-5 hours for the actual bluing.
You will need 2 SS tanks. You will need heat sources to get water up to 185-200 degrees.
First tank is used in the bluing process, using only hot distilled water.
Second tank is used to boil blued item for 10-15 minutes to kill the bluing chemical.
You will need water displacing oil. Brownells sells it by the gallon. This can be reused over and over, but some is lost during each bluing session.
You will need tank for the oil, I use a hard plastic tank intended for feeding livestock. Mine is about 36 inches long. Shorter would work for pistol. Blued item will be submerged into the displacing oil.
You will need RIG grease to coat blued items when done. I coat them heavily with a brush, then wrap in newspaper overnight or longer.
Like I said it takes me about 4-5 hours, and I feel it is more durable than the hot dip method commonly used.
I have used a least three bottles of the Express Blue, and to blue a bolt action rifle, you would typically use about 3-4 tablespoons.
All the instructions are included with the Express Blue.
If your firearm was disassembled, and prepped, I would be willing to help you with your first one.

Rich

[P3 Orion]

I failed to include a very fine Stainless Steel carding wheel (about .005 wire diameter) in the needed items. Again Brownells sells exactly what you would need.
The carding wheel is used between each bluing cycle to remove the rust that accumulates. Bluing, as you may already know, is a controlled, repeated, rust process.

Rich