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Picked up a 22 bolt rifle at an auction. Was supposed to be passed down to grand kids but wife's lowlife uncle put it up for auction. I got it. Has allot of rust in the barrel. Guessing its 60-70 years old. Bolt is a pull back to cock. Its a springfield. Been using CLP to soak it, then copper brush, over and over. Looking down the barrel, half way down has a serious rust spot. Anything better to use to eat the rust out? Or just keep it soaked and scrub with the brush. Want this back in shape to hand down. Thanks.

I picked up a very rusty cricket 22, that had a big rust spot inside, I used blue and rust remover to clean it. I plugged one end and poured it down the barrel, let it soak, then used a wire brush, it came out well.

I have used white vinegar to soak rusty car parts. Maybe it would be OK for a barrel? I dunno.

I like Evapo-rust for tools and stuff. I don't see why it wouldn't work for a barrel.

CLP will eventually remove bluing. I wonder if there are smiths that specialize in rescuing old guns. I worked on an old 22 with some rust on it. I remember using fine wool to remove the rust and then rebluing the barrel. But, the rifle only had little rust, so the amateur job wasn't too bad. I am guessing as a heirloom piece, that you don't want to refinish the whole thing.

Outside wasnt to bad. A little blueing missing. Inside has allot of rust. From what I have done so far, looks like the center inside is were its built up. I'll keep doing the soaking for a few days, then brush a few times before soaking it again. Just wondering if there was something better than CLP.

A patch soaked in muratic(sp?) acid will remove the rust, then flush with water, dry completely, then WD-40 to displace water, then a good gun oil.

I would try CLR first (general cleaning product in the silver jug from Walmart, not CLP) first. It gets crap out of barrels that gun cleaning products don’t, I use it for regular rifle barrel cleaning. After that, I’d use Flitz or butch’s bore paste and scrub with a patch on a nylon brush. This is assuming you want to get it into shooting condition. Be careful with the CLR on bluing, etc, as it’s fairly aggressive.

I have the black spray can of CLP. This stuff is bad? Been using it for years. Seems to do a good job.

Old man, how nasty is that acid stuff? Bad enough I need gloves? Will keep working on it for awhile but if it doesn’t clean out after a month, then will check out the acid stuff.

Bearcatrp wrote:I have the black spray can of CLP. This stuff is bad? Been using it for years. Seems to do a good job.

Nothing wrong with it for general gun cleaning, but it may not be up to getting the rust out that you described. CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust) is more potent. It’s about all I’ve used in barrels for the last 3 or 4 years and it is better on carbon than any gun cleaning product I’ve tried. I have not tried it on rust, but I’d be surprised if it didn’t do more than the CLP does. Flitz and Butch’s Bore Paste are both mild abrasives and will get even more out when scrubbed back and forth with a brush.

There are restoration gunsmiths; one good one online is Mark Novak, whose Anvil channel I watch a lot.

He has had a lot of success with boiling metal pieces, including actions and barrels, to stop rust. Have a look there and see if he's worked a similar problem. I'd say drop him a note, but he is very reluctant to diagnose by internet. He has a lot of videos, though.

Erud wrote:

Bearcatrp wrote:I have the black spray can of CLP. This stuff is bad? Been using it for years. Seems to do a good job.

Nothing wrong with it for general gun cleaning, but it may not be up to getting the rust out that you described. CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust) is more potent. It’s about all I’ve used in barrels for the last 3 or 4 years and it is better on carbon than any gun cleaning product I’ve tried. I have not tried it on rust, but I’d be surprised if it didn’t do more than the CLP does. Flitz and Butch’s Bore Paste are both mild abrasives and will get even more out when scrubbed back and forth with a brush.

What is your procedure for using it for general cleaning? Any tips or tricks you have learned? Techniques to keep it off the blueing?

Bearcatrp wrote:Old man, how nasty is that acid stuff? Bad enough I need gloves? Will keep working on it for awhile but if it doesn’t clean out after a month, then will check out the acid stuff.

I believe it is harsh enough that you should definitely wear gloves and be careful to protect the area around where you are working (i.e. don't get it on the floor or table). Muratic acid is a form of hydrochloric acid (a less pure form). Treat it with respect.

BigBlue wrote:

Bearcatrp wrote:Old man, how nasty is that acid stuff? Bad enough I need gloves? Will keep working on it for awhile but if it doesn’t clean out after a month, then will check out the acid stuff.

I believe it is harsh enough that you should definitely wear gloves and be careful to protect the area around where you are working (i.e. don't get it on the floor or table). Muratic acid is a form of hydrochloric acid (a less pure form). Treat it with respect.

My father used muriatic acid to clean and etch concrete (he was in the concrete business). He would always use gloves and you had to be careful about getting it on your clothes.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid