Nikon Coyote Special Scope/ AR-15

[dsm2nr]

Nikon's system can work well so do not listen to the haters on here who's only advice is "go buy something else because I think it is better" that is just not helpful.

Actually, it's sound advice. Not every reticle will work great for every application. It CAN work well with those who aren't looking for precision shot placement. Or those who haven't had a lot of trigger time.

[Holland&Holland]

Nikon's system can work well so do not listen to the haters on here who's only advice is "go buy something else because I think it is better" that is just not helpful.

Actually, it's sound advice. Not every reticle will work great for every application. It CAN work well with those who aren't looking for precision shot placement. Or those who haven't had a lot of trigger time.

I never said it was perfect for every situation. What I did say is telling someone to through out the ford and buy a chevy is just silly. It is like any other reticle, if you put in the time you can make it work very nicly. I know be cause I have done it with this exact same model of scope.

[farmerj]

sounds more like he's needing a basic education in external ballistics and how things come together to make this scope work more than anything else.

Until he understands that, he can pick ford, chevy or dodge and still end up with a dog.

[dsm2nr]

Apparently my knowing not everyone needs or wants to know every detail about ballistics means I have a knowledge deficiency.

[farmerj]

Apparently my knowing not everyone needs or wants to know every detail about ballistics means I have a knowledge deficiency.

No, but it sure would help the OP to understand what it is he is trying to do with a scope that has a higher technical requirement than a simple duplex reticle.

Heck, even changing from summer to winter is enough to make this scope almost worthless. Do you know why?

[MnHornet]

Alicia, it looks to me like you shot 3" at 200 in your upper left group. I think with a little more range time with your new scope and reticle, you should be able to pull that group in a bit. To be honest 3" at 200 isn't too bad for your first time out or your worst time out.

[Snowgun]

Heck, even changing from summer to winter is enough to make this scope almost worthless. Do you know why?

Cuz you can't hunt yotes in summer?

[farmerj]

Heck, even changing from summer to winter is enough to make this scope almost worthless. Do you know why?

Cuz you can't hunt yotes in summer?

yeah, that's it.....that's the ticket....

[Payne]

2nd focal plane scope. Make sure you are doing all of your sighting in with the scope on its highest power setting.

[V Man]

2nd focal plane scope. Make sure you are doing all of your sighting in with the scope on its highest power setting.

I am a Military guy so Mil-dot is what I learned on and understand, but I am always up to test new technology. I met a Nikon factory guy at the Shot Show and I decided to try the BDC and the Spot On program.

The BDC circle aiming points and distance change with the magnification. Jump on the Nikon website and plug your info into the Nikon Spot On program. If you have an IPhone there is a Spot On app that will let you plug your real time(wind speed /direction,ambient temperature and ammo) information at the range.

http://www.nikonhunting.com/spoton/

[bman940]

Holland and Snow are right on with their recommendations. I also use the Coyote Special on my DPMS Prairie Panther where I have the Nikon Coyote Special 4.5-15 Mounted. I admit getting used tot he circles can be tough at first but I found that zeroing in using the edge of a square on a target helped me significantly. Utilizing Nikon's Spot ON Ballistic Program to dial in my scope,rifle and ammo really made everything come together. This scope is designed for predator hunting not punching holes in paper. If you go to Nikonhunting.com as previously suggested then click the Spot On logo, register (it's all free) and enter your shooting information I think you will be pleasantly surprised by the results. Also, as Snow suggested I don't think it woyld be a bad idea to go back and make sure everything is tight and mounted correctly.
Here's an idea of what you can expect to see from Nikon's Spot On website.
If you zero at 100 yards the bottom of the circle is 200 ( 2.74 inches low) , the middle of the second circle is 271 yards. This is similar to my ammo choice except I zero for 200 yards. Thus far I have gone 7:7 on coyotes with the longest shot being 457 ( ranged) yards.

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd3 ... /223-1.png

Here's a pic of my DPMS/Nikon combo

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd3 ... er_2-2.jpg

Great to be a new member on this forum. I am happy to try and help you out with any Nikon ( not camera's) related questions guys.
I hope this info helps ?

Bart
Nikon Pro Staff

[Rem700]

scope ring height

[farmerj]

I am going to echo what V-man said.

Sell it and get a mil-dot scope if you want to have a scope that's capable of being used for hold overs.

No matter what you get a spot-on turret for, you won't be any good with it except at the specifications you gave it. There is a reason it is asking you for atmospheric conditions and why you are inputting them.

You best thing to do is get a mil-dot scope like a 6X super sniper and go buy yourself a ton of ammo.

Then you sit down on the range with a spotting scope, your rifle, your pen, your ammo and you shoot.

And with every shot, you log what it did for you in a book. To include: sky, temp, cloudy, humidty, wind, pressure, trace etc.

There is a reason that long range and competitive shooters use a log book. Because it can't be beat. Mil-dots help a little bit to deal with hold-overs. But it still comes to the skill of know what the external ballistics is doing to the gun.

So with that in mind.

What is the spec's on the scope for the rifle, ammo, temp, humidity, pressure and have you taken the difference for what all those were calibrated for and made the adjustments to the time/date/conditions for when you zero'ed your rifle?

[Snowgun]

I am going to echo what V-man said.

Sell it and get a mil-dot scope if you want to have a scope that's capable of being used for hold overs.

No matter what you get a spot-on turret for, you won't be any good with it except at the specifications you gave it. There is a reason it is asking you for atmospheric conditions and why you are inputting them.

You best thing to do is get a mil-dot scope like a 6X super sniper and go buy yourself a ton of ammo.

Then you sit down on the range with a spotting scope, your rifle, your pen, your ammo and you shoot.

And with every shot, you log what it did for you in a book. To include: sky, temp, cloudy, humidty, wind, pressure, trace etc.

There is a reason that long range and competitive shooters use a log book. Because it can't be beat. Mil-dots help a little bit to deal with hold-overs. But it still comes to the skill of know what the external ballistics is doing to the gun.

So with that in mind.

What is the spec's on the scope for the rifle, ammo, temp, humidity, pressure and have you taken the difference for what all those were calibrated for and made the adjustments to the time/date/conditions for when you zero'ed your rifle?

This is kinda like telling your wife to sell the minivan, buy a Porsche, and go to the track to practice over and understeering so she can get the kids to school in a 5 second window.

The OP just wants a scope that can get her within one minute of Yote, QUICKLY with MINIMAL THINKING AND CALCULATION (i.e., not mil dot), out to about 400 yrds or so. Hold over reticules are perfect for this (assuming you get them set up correctly). They will even function with a variety of ammo and conditions.

Now what you say about practicing is worthwhile, but the OP really only needs to do some work on trigger control, range estimation, and sighting in the rifle. This will be enough to have the system that she already has perform to her specifications (i.e., banging Yotes).

[Snowgun]

2nd focal plane scope. Make sure you are doing all of your sighting in with the scope on its highest power setting.

+1

Totally forgot about this important point. Many holdover reticles ONLY function at one power setting (which is usually the highest one)