Just got a Remington 700 in .338 lapua

[OldmanFCSA]

DO NOT BUY A Hesse, Vulcan, or Bohica 60BMG rifle. They have earned a reputation of blowing up.
Do not buy an older Watson's Weapons Upper with screw-in bolt - its a real pain to shoot repeatedly.

Buy RCBS or Hornady Press, only Hornady dies, and K&M case working tools.
Unless you can afford the HIGH DOLLAR specialized dies, presses, and other tools.

I must really stress joining the FCSA and entering the Members Forum.
There you will really get the GOOD info, sources, and deals.

[jp8775]

I like the guns, I will get a picture of mine up when I get caught up. I ordered a Giraud annealer. It seemed to be the best and most simple.


http://www.giraudtool.com/annealer1.htm

Its coming tomorrow, I can't wait to try it out.

[jp8775]

I got the case annealer, it really is a quality product. I can't wait to take it for a spin.

[justaguy]

I got the case annealer, it really is a quality product. I can't wait to take it for a spin.

So you have said....a couple time.

[mnmike59]

I got the case annealer, it really is a quality product. I can't wait to take it for a spin.

Be sure to give a review. I'm sure there's some interest!

[jp8775]

Well its up and running. It does about 1 every 8 seconds. The instructions are great and if you just follow the directions, in this case 7-8 seconds the temperature of the neck was exactly as it should be tested with a IR thermometer. I had them drop into a water pail. Does anyone have real knowledge as to how often you should do this? I really feel good that I am doing this now and it should help accuracy as well.

[jp8775]

I purchased a night force ballistic calculator software package. I also found a great IPAQ 110 to run it on Craig’s list. This is great because they are cheap and run the software. It will run on a 111 as well but they go for more. Wow this is great. I run my test rounds through a chronograph so I have good data. If you just want to have fun or really have good data I recommend this.

[jp8775]

2500 once fired .308 Lake City brass though so far. The annealer works well. A few premature drops but I was checking them as I put them out to dry and sent them back though. I am going to run a few thousand more through and see, so far I like the machine. I will try to get several thousand .223 LC though and report. I have a lot of brass because of being around police shoots so often.

[mnmike59]

Outstanding! I would believe that would help accuracy without a doubt.

Was the Ipaq 110 the one in Big Lake? I see one listed there for 50.00

[jp8775]

Yes it was Big lake one, I drove up the next day after I saw after the add, I got a cool aluminum case for it on line and an extra battery. I just got off the phone with the owner of the annealer company (he called me), wow what a great guy. He gave me some great tips.

[jp8775]

I asked about how many time to anneal The owner of the company said that many top shooters do it every time they load. So I guess you can’t do it to many times. He also told me how to set the spacing so it will not have premature drops.

[jp8775]

For those of you who care, here’s what we are looking for in a good anneal. They should look like Lapua brass! A little red or copper showing is ok, but best if not. Copper showing means that some of the copper has leached out from the brass (to hot), not to worry the real test is can you crush the cartridge with your fingers at the end. That’s bad. It’s best though not to see that if possible. IR does not work on gun brass, the metal is too thin and will change tem to fast you only have 6-8 seconds to do this. A temperature pencil is best and I found that. Scribe inside the case as far as you can, on a clean case. Talking to the owner of the company I am going to put a regulator on a 20lb tank, that way I do not once I have it set I do not have to worry about the temp changing. And of course no tanks of that size in the house right? Righttttttt. I will be real good at this eventually after I go through the tons of 5 gal pails I have of rifle brass and the stuff I am getting from the upcoming law enforcement shoot. It’s nice to be able to go out and shoot out doors and not worry about my brass or at least all of it. As I get better at this and learn more I will post if anyone wants to hear me ramble. The most important thing is consistency, get them all the same as possible, same temp time, cooled the same. I have been exchanging with guys on several forums and even a poorly done anneal as long as it does not over heat the case is better than none at all. I talked to a guy who got 18 reloads out of a .338 lapua case! Even if he exaggerated and it was 9 that’s good.

[bulletproof]

Talking to the owner of the company I am going to put a regulator on a 20lb tank, that way I do not once I have it set I do not have to worry about the temp changing. And of course no tanks of that size in the house right? Righttttttt.

Did you ask the manufacturer about running it off natural gas, or did it have any information on that in the documentation?

[jp8775]

It has just a generic torch; I assume you could set it up with whatever you wanted with just a torch swap. Look at the photo you can see. I saw nothing about that in the documentation. I did 2500 .308 and still have 1/4 tank left in a 1lb. I guess it would take me a few years to do 20lb'der

[OldmanFCSA]

Most 50 shooters anneal every time, as I do.
The FCSA record was shot with brass that had been reloaded 47 times.