Gas block screws

[P3 Orion]

Usually screw size determines the torque setting. When tightening scope screws, a 6 screw use about 20 inch pounds and for a 8 size use about 25 inch pounds. Has worked for me, no broke or damaged screws and they don't come loose.
Just my 2 cents.

[LumberZach]

Gas block has been installed. The screw is 6-32 for future reference. Ace had then a touch too short and too long so the new one is a little long, but it's better than not having enough threads engaging.
I did use loctite. I forgot the number, but medium strength high temperature. I think it said up to 425 degrees, but I'd have to look.
I put it in with about 23-24 in. Lbs and it seemed to go just fine.
Thanks for the help guys!

[OldmanFCSA]

For small screws such as mentioned above, I use Purple LocTite.
For a barrel on an action, I still use Purple as it provides a seal against corrosion by cleaning fluids.

For larger screws starting at #10 and above, I will use Blue LocTite.

For really big bolts, I still use only Blue for fasteners I may want to take apart. For fasteners that may be close to permanent, then I will use Red, but only if heat will not harm the area if heat is required to take apart.

Green LocTite is to be used only for locking bearing races in place if the clearances are to large for a proper press-fit.

Properly manufactured SAE Socket Set Screws or SAE Socket Head Cap Screws are always Grade 8 if manufactured in the USA.
Metric screws can be Grade 8.8, 10.9, or 12.8 which is similar respectively to Grade 2, Grade 5, or Grade 8.

Grade 2 Hex-Head bolts have NO hash marks on head face.
Grade 5 Hex-Head bolts have 3 hash marks on head face.
Grade 8 Hex-Head bolts have 5 hash marks on head face.
This is the SAE Standard. All nuts are to be Grade 8.


But cheap imported junk from other countries does not always conform to SAE Standards - so buy Quality products.

Story about set screws, specifically damaged ones. When trying to remove the stock barrel from my State Arms Shorty, it was first necessary to remove the set screw locking the barrel threads into the action. Problem was: someone somehow broke the ball driver end off a hex-key wrench which was twisted into the socket of screw and not easily removable. I ended up using a carbide endmill to remove the set screw from the action's recoil lug.

The O.P. of this topic was lucky to have sufficient screw exposed to permit removal by careful use of pliers.