Advice on building first AR

[BigDog58]

I am in the process of putting components together to build myself an AR (My First AR & First build).
Lower:
I have just acquired a Spikes Tactical Forged Lower and a CMMG Lower Parts kit. I have traded and got a Mil-Spec Stock, Buffer and Spring. Is there anything I should change before I begin putting this together?

Upper:

I haven't begun this part but will shortly. Seriously considering simply purchasing a Complete Upper and considering a Spikes Tactical. I've been told that by using Spikes Lower and Upper it will increase the value of the gun. Is it that critical?

Is there a better option yet stay around $650?

Would it be cheaper to buy individual components and assemble them like I am doing with the lower?

I plan to mainly shoot targets with this gun, both paper and steel at mostly 100 yards and some out to 300 yds.

What barrel twist rate will best suit my needs? Also barrel twist and bullet weight suggestions are appreciated. I will be mostly shooting my own hand loaded ammo.

What Barrel Length is Suggested with a given twist rate?


Should the barrel be Chromed, Phostphated, etc..?

Please try to be as specific as possible with each question in order that I may make a knowledgeable decision and not have to waste money (in short supply) on what will be my ONLY Upper for quite a while.

All suggestions and help are greatly appreciated.

Please note, I am a retired aircraft technician and quite handy using tools and putting things together, if this is at all pertinent.

Thanks,

BD

[Hmac]

You're going to get a huge variety of opinions here. Here's mine:

Barrel-if you're looking for longevity, a cold hammer forged barrel is optimal. Chrome lining aids longevity. Double-thickness chrome lining (Noveske, Centurion) is better. A barrel with no chrome lining has better accuracy potential, but wears faster. A great compromise would be a nitrided barrel (melonite) but I don't know where you'd get one. Absolute best accuracy will be from a stainless steel barrel, but it wears fast...you might see degradation in as little as 10,000 rounds. Best, most accurate stainless barrels IMHO are Noveske. IMHO, best barrel brands for carbon steel barrels are Bravo Company, Daniel Defense, Centurion, Rainier. 1/7 or 1/8 twist rates are good. Will stabilize heavier bullets and still shoot 55grain fine. Twist and length depend on your accuracy expectations. Longer has higher potential. 16 inch is pretty standard for a typical AR15, but an SPR build might prefer an 18 or even 20 inch barrel. It's important also because it will define your gas system...carbine vs midlength vs rifle length as well as your handguard selection. Typically, frankenguns have much lower value, even if all components are the same brand. You're building this thing to have the exact rifle you want, however, so I pay no attention to that.

[Erud]

Absolute best accuracy will be from a stainless steel barrel, but it wears fast...you might see degradation in as little as 10,000 rounds.

You've gotten 10k rounds out of a 223 barrel without loss of accuracy?

[CarRacer]

Build the upper, you can handle reloading so you'll have no issue with that aspect. You only need to torque the barrel nut, so you'll be fine. I would suggest buying an assembled upper receiver though, those are a pain in the butt to put together with the little springs and such. It's such a small price difference that it's easier to just buy it assembled.

[Hmac]

Absolute best accuracy will be from a stainless steel barrel, but it wears fast...you might see degradation in as little as 10,000 rounds.

You've gotten 10k rounds out of a 223 barrel without loss of accuracy?

Sure. More than that out of my Noveske Light Recce, but my expectations for that barrel are lower than they'd be if I bought a stainless barrel.

[Hmac]

Build the upper, you can handle reloading so you'll have no issue with that aspect. You only need to torque the barrel nut, so you'll be fine. I would suggest buying an assembled upper receiver though, those are a pain in the butt to put together with the little springs and such. It's such a small price difference that it's easier to just buy it assembled.

Upper really only has the forward assist and dust cover to assemble, other than attaching the barrel and forearm system.
You mean he should buy an assembled lower receiver. That's the one with all the springs and detents. Yeah, he should buy extras of all the springs in the lower parts kit he chooses. Likely to launch a few.

Big Dog will also need to consider the appropriate tools. Buy or borrow. It's not a huge list, but like anything the more you try to skimp, the higher will be your frustration levels with the build process. There are some AR building tools that just really make the job easier. They do add expense, however, and like anything, that expense can only be defrayed by spreading it out over several builds, or selling the tools afterward.

In addition to considering barrel characteristics, Big Dog will also need to think about forearm systems, which in turn will dictate the barrel nut, which in turn will dictate the type of barrel nut wrench he needs. He also needs to consider whether or not he's going to use a front sight base (as opposed to a rail-mounted front sight). That decision will guide his choice of gas block. You can't get the barrel nut on while the FSB or other gas block is on. You either have to slip the barrel nut on before pinning the FSB, or you have to unpin it, slip on the nut, then repin the FSB.

[Uffdaphil]

For length, 16" is probably best for your yardages. With the most choices for barrels. I would avoid 1/9 twist and go with 1/7 in this length. With 14.5" you need to pin the muzzle device which limits future handguard changes. 18" is a good length for precision shooting. Easier to find with 1/8 twist and Wylde chamber if that is important.

Forget about matching upper lower for resale. In a high buck build sure, but for a good budget shooter put any optional dough into a quality barrel. You can always sell the upper and lower separately if you want to upgrade in future.

[Hmac]

Many people decide to build their own AR15 because they can get a rifle that's customized to their anticipated needs, but make no mistake, doing it yourself can be a daunting task. It's hard enough to select parts of good quality, let alone sort through all of the barrel options, forearm options, stock options, etc. And make no mistake, there are many, many quality pitfalls out there in all of the component parts. AR15 components are simply NOT all created equal, despite the assumption by some that they are, and that all you need to look for in the product description is the word "milspec".

I've always been a firm believer that someone should shoot and understand the platform before attempting to wade into a build. In that regard, I would recommend buying your first AR, learn it, and save the customizing for your second rifle which would be able to create based an a lot of knowledge. Alternatively, I think you should go to someplace like Atomic Tactical, explain your desire, and let them steer you through the process.

[Scratch]

Lots of good advice here, I'll throw mine in too...

I disagree on building an AR being a daunting task... (Or should I say putting one together) they are easy to build with standard punches, hammer, and what.... I think two specialty tools... (Which feel free to borrow from me if you need them)

IMO the hardest thing about putting together an AR is the choices you'll have to make. If it's your first AR and you just want to use it for general plinking, nothing specific, I'd say try to save a little money, and build it. You won't save a lot of money, but You'll get much more familiar with the workings of it and it will be no problem for a guy like you.

I'd go with a 16" chrome lined barrel with a 1/7, 1/8, or 1/9 twist, in a 5.56 or Wylde chamber so you can run either caliber (.223 or 5.56) since you'll probably reload for this, keep in mind the crimped primer pockets of 5.56 you'll have to deal with on the ammo side in the future.

I wouldn't be too picky on brand, if you don't have a specific purpose, and really just want one since it's the next logical step in your collection, get whatever you can get for a decent price. You should be able to get a stripped lower for under 100 bucks right now, but I have a feeling PSA will be having some good prices for Black Friday if you can wait that long.

You can probably find a complete upper at a good price too, although building one is also stupid easy. Just make sure that if you find an upper, make note if it includes the BCG and CH. Sometimes they come with, and sometimes not, you might think you're getting a screaming deal if you miss that tidbit.

Don't get hung up on stocks, pistol grips, and forend too much since they can be changed easily, and chances are, you might end up with a box full of that stuff if you catch the fever. As far as stocks go, keep in mind there are commercial, and. Mil spec... Kind of like metric and ASE... Both are fine, just gotta make sure you match the stock to the buffer tube. Might be a little more choices in mil spec though.

IMO... the main part to spend your money on is the barrel, if you're looking for accuracy. Since you don't really know what you want in an AR yet, I wouldn't worry too much about it. And besides... Barrel changes are easily done yourself.

Get your hands on as many different configurations as you can, so you can shoulder them and decide which furniture you like. Might save you replacement cost up front if you find certain stocks or whatever that you like.

So many choices.... That'll be the frustrating part.
Good luck.

[OldmanFCSA]

As I stated to you personally, I will loan you a 24" fluted barrel flattop upper to use while you acquire components and build your upper. No scope included unless I take one off a 50.

I may need you to order more upper components as I have 3 more lowers coming in another week. Thinking about other than 223/5.56 cartridges, maybe a 300 Blackout, a 204 Ruger, and others (need ideas please, based on what fits an AR15 magazine).

[Hmac]

Lots of good advice here, I'll throw mine in too...

I disagree on building an AR being a daunting task... (Or should I say putting one together) they are easy to build with standard punches, hammer, and what.... I think two specialty tools... (Which feel free to borrow from me if you need them)

IMO the hardest thing about putting together an AR is the choices you'll have to make. If it's your first AR and you just want to use it for general plinking, nothing specific, I'd say try to save a little money, and build it. You won't save a lot of money, but You'll get much more familiar with the workings of it and it will be no problem for a guy like you.

So many choices.... That'll be the frustrating part.
Good luck.

I do agree that the mechanical component of putting the pieces together is not particularly difficult, especially for someone who is or has been an aircraft mechanic. There are some moderately tricky aspects, but it's not that hard, especially if you have friends with experience with it, and access to the internet.

I meant my point to be what you stated...the choices of components, relative to quality and to optimizing their working well with each other is the hard part and it's difficult to navigate those waters unassisted.

[Dave Timm]

My best, biggest piece of advise I can offer is, if you have a question or are unsure, ask! I can't tell you how many guns I have had to repair or replace parts on that were truly worked on by " gunsmiths" and "certified armorers." Not joking I have had gunsmiths who couldn't install an end plate properly, assemble fire control groups, or dust covers. Likewise I had one armorer who installed a mil spec stock on a commercial diameter rec ext.

All of us started just where you are and we all remember (or should lol) our first time and mistakes or things we have learned along the way. This is a great community and we are happy to help.

All of the above being said, again ask ask ask is my first suggestion, but also having the right tools and a mentor really does help. Some of the videos on YouTube are better than others, even some of the guys claiming to be gunsmiths have obvious issues and incorrect info in their videos.

The warning is building is addicting

[grousemaster]

Palmetto State Armory will be your best bet for a Mil-Spec AR for your price point. Today thy have an uper with free float midwest industries rail and melonite finish for $399...that's complete with BCG and CH. No one else can touch that value right now. Look at the rifle kits also. If there's a better value in the AR world I'd love to hear about it....

Melonite barrel linings are more accurate and last longest than chrome lining, just ask the boys at Huldra, or even the U.S. military testing....

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.ph ... andle.html


Ad this complete lower and you have a badass rifle for $600....you can't even get a DPMS oracle for that....

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.ph ... black.html

Geez, I just talked myself into one...hope the wife understands

[Scratch]

Does anybody know what the PTAC is that PSA sells? I'm assuming its a cheaper line of stuff they sell, but not sure...

[grousemaster]

Does anybody know what the PTAC is that PSA sells? I'm assuming its a cheaper line of stuff they sell, but not sure...

Yea, as far as I know an in house brand made to undercut their own pricing. I called and they said the barrel in melonite lined and the BCG is tested and properly staked....considering most AR parts ren't actually made by the companies who's name is on them anyway I'm sure they are GTG...if not return as they are guranteed. I think the BCG is 6820 and not MP tested. , it's an M16 profile though. Inside of BCG probably isn't chrome lined. Not the end of the world, it's the same with the DPMS, Bushmasters, etc. For the OOP's price point he can't expect Colt or Noveske though....but he could get pretty darn close for south of $700 from PSA by ordering their premium stuff that is all mil-spec

The rail alone on that upper sells for about $150. Amazing deals. Makes me wonder if they went ape **** ordering up new parts after the rush and are now trying to find a means to give them away without damaging the value of their own brand too much...