Gas block screws

[LumberZach]

So... I tried installing a Yankee hill gas block and I snapped the screw putting too much torque in it. To say I'm un-happy is an understatement. Long story short, where is the best place to find a new one?

[Ghost]

Ace has set screws. Not sure if they'll match though.

[JJ]

New screw, or gas block?

Set screws should be a standard thread, available at any hardware store.

As for a gas block, Element Arms on the north side, and Atomic tactical or Arnhem around the cities.

[LumberZach]

Just a new screw. It's not a set screw, but it's a 3 piece clamp on style block. But I should be able to find these at most hardware stores? Anything to look out for?

[fine ape]

I would think it should be just a regular socket head cap screw. (im assuming its a shcs)

If you take a file to your busted screw and can remove metal from the screw with little effort its a plane screw. If the file doesn't mark it then the screw is harden.

Can't think of why they use file hard screw on something like that, but I've been wrong before.

Did the screw leave part of itself in your gas block?

[LumberZach]

It did, but enough was sticking out that I could get it out with a pliers and some patience .

[fine ape]

It did, but enough was sticking out that I could get it out with a pliers and some patience .

Might want to run a good screw in the hole the old screw snapped off in, to make sure the threads didn't get bugger up.

[LumberZach]

Good advise, I will do that. Anyone have recommendations in torque spec for this sorta thing? I had the driver set at 60 ft lbs but didn't really intend on putting that much on, but then it snapped before the driver clicked over. I looked buy couldn't find a recommendation.

[yuppiejr]

The manufacturer should be able to provide a torque spec for their product, there are a lot of variables to consider and this isn't a standard part for which a common torque spec applies. If you are not sure, ask before you start cranking away on a screw with 60 pounds of torque that's only rated for 30.

If the barrel isn't dimpled for the set screws I'd look into building/buying/borrowing a jig so you can use a drill press to do the job OR have a gunsmith pin the block to your barrel. If your only option is a slip fit with set screws I'd suggest either peening the set screws once they are torqued & tested for alignment so they don't back out, or apply a high temp rated thread locking compound.

[Holland&Holland]

Good advise, I will do that. Anyone have recommendations in torque spec for this sorta thing? I had the driver set at 60 ft lbs but didn't really intend on putting that much on, but then it snapped before the driver clicked over. I looked buy couldn't find a recommendation.

You do mean inch lbs right? Otherwise there is your issue.

[fine ape]

Good advise, I will do that. Anyone have recommendations in torque spec for this sorta thing? I had the driver set at 60 ft lbs but didn't really intend on putting that much on, but then it snapped before the driver clicked over. I looked buy couldn't find a recommendation.

Yaaa...that seems too high.....

IF I remember right torque for the barrel nut is 30 ft lbs. Try 25-30IN LBS. Im hoping the gas block is steel and not aluminum. I haven't seen torque specs for gas blocks before ether.

I know im endangering my credentials as a guy by saying this, but you could......call the manufacturer and ask.

[Hmac]

I would never rely only on set screws to hold a gas block on, nor would I even consider a clamp-on. My gas blocks are all pinned, but I usually swap out the pointy-tipped set screws for knurled cup-tip screws with some red loctite. Barrel is always dimpled for at least one of the screws, but typically I see the value of a dimpled barrel and set screws as only being a means of accurately aligning the gas block before pinning.

[LumberZach]

Sorry, my bad ha. It is in-lbs. again though, not set screws it is a clamp on style gas block. I'll find a link if I can, but it's a yhm gas block with a flip up front sight.
I know 60 in lbs is too much, and I know I torqued it too much. I was just trying to get it good and tight and feel where the screw went. I went too far, now I know.
I could definitely call the manufacturer... But I'm a man! I don't need instructions! Ha all kidding aside, I was a little unhappy they didn't include instructions. I went on there website and they had instructions, but it only said to tighten it down. No mention of how much.

[LumberZach]

Quick google search said Yankee hill doesn't even have torque specs of you call them, but somewhere between 20-40 in lbs is more than enough. I will be putting a dose of loctite on it, and hopefully it doesn't pop out of alignment since i was so meticulous with my level to get it right on.

[Hmac]

Quick google search said Yankee hill doesn't even have torque specs of you call them, but somewhere between 20-40 in lbs is more than enough. I will be putting a dose of loctite on it, and hopefully it doesn't pop out of alignment since i was so meticulous with my level to get it right on.

Be careful in your choice of threadlocker. Heat is what is used to overcome threadlocker for disassembly and your barrel/gas block will have little trouble hitting 400 degrees or higher while shooting.