Need M1 Garand firing pin and a little gunsmithing

[Greg]

I've got a nearly new M1 that I've had for at least 20 years and not fired. I recently discovered that the firing pin is rusted inside the bolt. I'll need a new firing pin and a bit of gun-smithing help to remove the old pin without hurting the bolt.

I could use some help with that, I'm willing to pay for the smithing and, of course the firing pin.

Thanks,

Greg

[onebohemian]

Greg,

At the end of this detail strip tutorial, the guy shows how to disassemble the bolt using the M10 tool.

http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-strip

I think the tool came in the cleaning kits that fit into the butt of the rifle. Doesn't appear to be too difficult of a job. Just requires some patience and care as the springs are likely to cause pieces to eject a bit quicker than expected.

I am curious why you think the firing pin is rusted into the bolt? Did the gun get put away wet years ago? If you get her apart and everything is just dirty, give the old parts a great cleaning, including inside the bolt where the pin slides, and reassemble.

Good luck,

[Greg]

Greg,

At the end of this detail strip tutorial, the guy shows how to disassemble the bolt using the M10 tool.

http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-strip

I think the tool came in the cleaning kits that fit into the butt of the rifle. Doesn't appear to be too difficult of a job. Just requires some patience and care as the springs are likely to cause pieces to eject a bit quicker than expected.

I am curious why you think the firing pin is rusted into the bolt? Did the gun get put away wet years ago? If you get her apart and everything is just dirty, give the old parts a great cleaning, including inside the bolt where the pin slides, and reassemble.

Good luck,

It's a bit worse than that unfortunately. I can get the bolt out of the rifle and disassemble most of the bolt but the firing pin is firmly rusted in place, not a trace of rust on the rest of the gun. I've tried penetrating oil and a punch and can't get the pin to budge. I'll need a new pin but I don't want to hurt the bolt on this pristine rifle.

[farmerj]

Are you actually able to remove the extractor?

[Rip Van Winkle]

If the pin won't budge after taking the extractor out and soaking it in penetrating oil, you are going to need a new bolt.

[Sprouticus]

Most likely this is not the original bolt anyway.

Garands had their parts swapped and been rebuilt a few times throughout their history.

If you are going to swap bolts you will need to buy or borrow head space gauges.

Here a list of bolts and their heat lot codes if you want to try and get one that matches up to your serial number.
http://myplace.frontier.com/~aleccorapinski/id12.html

Their are a few places to look for M1 bolts.
ebay,
ammo garand
http://www.ammogarand.com/m1gapabo.html

You could look through the sale page on the CMP forums (or use their WTB thread)
http://forums.thecmp.org/forumdisplay.php?f=87

[farmerj]

I had a neat trick I was going to share, but the level of, you need to understand the context will be lost in most and it will just result in a pissin' match.

It's a captured firing pin. If you don't remove the extractor, no amount of effort will allow you to remove it.

I guess I'm curious, does the pin even free float in the bolt like it's supposed to.?

[Greg]

I had a neat trick I was going to share, but the level of, you need to understand the context will be lost in most and it will just result in a pissin' match.

It's a captured firing pin. If you don't remove the extractor, no amount of effort will allow you to remove it.

I guess I'm curious, does the pin even free float in the bolt like it's supposed to.?

I've removed the extractor and ejector with no problem but the firing pin is stuck solid with a bit less than 1/8 inch sticking out of the back of the bolt.

I've got it soaking in penetrating oil but haven't been able to budge it yet.

[farmerj]

At this point I'd stand it up on a couple of steel supports and using a brass drift and a small ball peen hammer, try and tap on the firing pin tang you see on the backside.

Don't go playing all wack-a-mole on it. But give it some effort.

[Greg]

At this point I'd stand it up on a couple of steel supports and using a brass drift and a small ball peen hammer, try and tap on the firing pin tang you see on the backside.

Don't go playing all wack-a-mole on it. But give it some effort.

Thanks, that's my next move.

The rifle was built in 1952, about the first month of resumed production (4203xxx) and the bolt is late WWII, so this one has been arsenal refinished at some point, since it looks new but with no stock cartouches.

[farmerj]

Do you reload for this thing?

[Greg]

Do you reload for this thing?

No, since I never fired this one since it was close to new arsenal rebuilt. It just sat in the safe for 20 years. There is not a trace of rust anywhere else, including on the rest of the bolt. It's a mystery.

[Greg]

Success!

I managed to drive the firing pin out of the bolt with out hurting the bolt and the firing pin channel cleaned up just fine.

The firing pin has quite a bit of pitting on about 60% of it's length toward the rear of the pin. It should work fine as is but I'd like to replace it to be safe.

Does anybody have a spare firing pin they'd like to sell me?

[farmerj]

If just order one from here.

http://fulton-armory.com/faqs/m1g-faqs/tea/index.htm