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Looks good. will be getting some. Am assuming to run the sonic cleaner hot with this stuff?

Bearcatrp wrote:Looks good. will be getting some. Am assuming to run the sonic cleaner hot with this stuff?

The stuff I recommended doesn’t need a sonic cleaner. Soak it and everything should wipe off.

How should I use Carbon Killer?
Carbon Killer was designed for soaking heavily carboned internal steel parts (AR bolt, revolver cylinders, firing pins). Pour Carbon Killer into a small glass or steel tray and place carboned parts inside. This allows for easy removal of parts after cleaning. You can also saturate a patch of rag and place on area you need to clean but soaking parts is far more effective.

Have any of you used this Slip-2000 for carbon removal on a rifle brake? I've been looking for a good solution for removing hard carbon deposits on my 50 Cal Tank Brake. I've tried a couple of products with my sonic cleaner, but not had much success.

Also, could this cleaner be used to remove carbon in a rifle's chamber? I am looking for a way to remove this carbon, between days at a match. I shoot Solid Brass projectiles, and brass/copper fouling doesn't seem to be the bigger issue (I also don't want to have to "foul" the barrel after copper/brass removal at a match), but with the slower powders I shoot, carbon fouling seems to be an issue.

What is wrong with hoppes 9?

BigDog58 wrote:Have any of you used this Slip-2000 for carbon removal on a rifle brake? I've been looking for a good solution for removing hard carbon deposits on my 50 Cal Tank Brake. I've tried a couple of products with my sonic cleaner, but not had much success.

Also, could this cleaner be used to remove carbon in a rifle's chamber? I am looking for a way to remove this carbon, between days at a match. I shoot Solid Brass projectiles, and brass/copper fouling doesn't seem to be the bigger issue (I also don't want to have to "foul" the barrel after copper/brass removal at a match), but with the slower powders I shoot, carbon fouling seems to be an issue.

Worth a try. I’ve thrown 1911 barrels and revolver cylinders in it and they come out clean after patches and a wipe down.

Just go buy a CAT tool designed to scrape carbon off the bolt and carrier. Should be $10

Kroil and a green 3M dish pad. Not even kidding. Let the Kroil soak for a minute or two, and the carbon wipes off with the pad.

Best tip I got out of an armorer's class.

photogpat wrote:Kroil and a green 3M dish pad. Not even kidding. Let the Kroil soak for a minute or two, and the carbon wipes off with the pad.

Best tip I got out of an armorer's class.

I will have to give that a try.

Picked up a bottle of the Carbon Killer. I hope I can shoot enough to really need it. Thanks for the tip.

Picked up a bottle of carbon killer today. Will be trying it soon.

photogpat wrote:Kroil and a green 3M dish pad. Not even kidding. Let the Kroil soak for a minute or two, and the carbon wipes off with the pad.

Best tip I got out of an armorer's class.

Which kind of dish pad? The scratchier kind or the plasticy kind

Soaked it for about 2 hours. This about right for cleaning?

Bearcatrp wrote:Soaked it for about 2 hours. This about right for cleaning?

Mine has always wiped clean. You may have to take a toothbrush or something to that. I’ve cleaned bolts that had thousands of rounds over years and they looked better.

Ghost wrote:You may have to take a toothbrush or something to that.

Better yet. Something like this:

https://www.hoppes.com/cleaning-accessories/utility-brush

hard h2o wrote:

Ghost wrote:You may have to take a toothbrush or something to that.

Better yet. Something like this:

https://www.hoppes.com/cleaning-accessories/utility-brush

I have that brush so will give it a shot after I clean it from the range today. It was just gorgeous out shooting today. Am ready for spring!