Gun oil/lube grease?

[Ramoel]

Reminds me of an old phrase from boot camp, it was a long time ago so excuse me if I don't get it exactly right

"This is my rifle, this is my gun, this one's for shooting and this one's for fun".

[tt3]

Oh, and I'll give another vote for the Militec-1

The gun needs to be hot for that to be effective, correct? I don't know the next time I'll make it to the range, and would feel kind of silly with the hairdryer. Do you have to use that exclusively thereafter? Its just the outer slide that I'm worried about. (for now.) Why not CLP?

[DaveA]

Oh, and I'll give another vote for the Militec-1

The gun needs to be hot for that to be effective, correct? I don't know the next time I'll make it to the range, and would feel kind of silly with the hairdryer. Do you have to use that exclusively thereafter? Its just the outer slide that I'm worried about. (for now.) Why not CLP?

You don't have to exclusively run Mil-Tec-1, one of its benifits is that it makes the slide 'slicker' for lack of a better term even when it seems dry. So you could run it a few times then switch to a cheaper product. And yes it should be heated to adhere properly

Your initial post asked about two things, lubricant and protection (stop laughing Brit ) so lets be clear, there is 3 functional things you need to clean your guns aside from the standard equipment used to apply them all.

Bore solvent is for cleaning the powder and such out of the barrel and action. Examples would be: Hoppes # 9 or my personal favorite Montana Bore cleaner (will also dissolve your sense of smell if you aren't careful)

Lubricant is for lubricating moving parts (internal, on the slide rails or bolt of a semi auto). examples are: Mil-Tec-1, Rem Oil, Hoppes Lubricant etc

Protectorant would be used for the outer surfaces to inhibit surface rust. Examples: Silicon cloth, Birchwood Casey Protectorant, the old fashioned brown Hoppes gun grease or even cosmoline for long term storage


CLP is an all in one (Clean Lube Protect) but I personally feel like it is a bit of a compromise because of that, it does all 3 decently but none 'great'. For my carry guns I want nothing short of excellence.

[ChillyW]

Hoppes #9 for the smell. I mean, for cleaning the bore...

CLP to break up any residue and get everything clean and ship-shape.

Wipe off all the CLP and dirt and gunk and get the gun as clean and dry as possible.

One or two drops of gun oil (currently I'm using Hoppes, I think) on the wear points, and then wipe most of it off with a rag. I then use the slightly oily rag to wipe any finger prints off and coat the gun before putting it away. If it's going in the safe, I'll leave it slightly oily. If it's a carry gun, I leave it pretty much dry.

[TC95GT]

Hoppes #9

Militec Lubricant and grease

[nyffman]

You got me curious about proper application, since I missed/never knew about applying heat. Here is what I found on their web site. Thanks for the suggestion.


FIREARMS APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS: SELF-LUBRICATION
CHARACTERISTICS: MILITEC-1 Synthetic Metal Conditioner has the unique ability to create a complex, molecular compound within the surface of heated gunmetal. This causes MILITEC-1 to become part of the metal, not merely a temporary coating or a boundary film. There are two main characteristics of this safe new compound. First, it seals and conditions the metal by stiffening (not hardening) the metal surface. Second, it makes the gunmetal self-lubricating under all environmental conditions.

SELF-LUBRICATION: After a complete application, a MILITEC-1 conditioned firearm is self-lubricating. Self-lubrication gives the firearm's gunmetal the dry lubricity that is required for sustained fire under all environmental conditions. If exposure to dust, sand, or extreme cold is a concern, all excess MILITEC-1 must be wiped away, leaving the firearm's surface metal clean, dry, and constantly lubricated. Please note: Complete corrosion protection and self-lubrication is attained only after both Step One and Step Two (below) are completed.

PREPARATION: To take full advantage of MILITEC-1's unique properties, start with a clean firearm. Although MILITEC-1 contains a mild detergent that will help with subsequent cleaning, there are no solvents or other hazardous materials in MILITEC-1, so it cannot remove old caked-on fouling and build-up from other lubes. Thus, if a firearm is dirty, you must clean it with a solvent before you proceed. Normal fieldstrip cleaning should be perfectly adequate. If possible, remove the handgrips, clean and prepare.

INITIAL TREATMENT: Applying MILITEC-1 to a firearm for the first time is a two-step process: (1) Application and (2) Firing.

STEP ONE: APPLICATION. Now that the firearm is clean and dry, apply a light film of MILITEC-1 to all surfaces, including the bore. Burnish/polish MILITEC-1 into exterior surfaces by rubbing rapidly using a cloth lightly dampened with MILITEC-1. Sparingly apply drops into the action, concentrating on springs, moving parts and metal-to-metal contact areas. If your firearm has a magazine, be sure to apply MILITEC-1 both inside and out. Leave a very light film of MILITEC-1 on all surfaces during reassembly. Now proceed to Step Two.

STEP TWO: FIRING. Once you fire your weapon enough times to reach operating temperatures, the heat and friction will activate MILITEC-1, strengthening the bonding process that was started in Step One. While firing, MILITEC-1 creates a self-lubricating, water-repelling, dry compound within the gunmetal.

Additional Application Instructions: If Step Two is not immediately possible, consider applying low heat to the firearm to facilitate the bonding process until you can perform Step Two. In field conditions, place your lubed firearm in the sun underneath black plastic or a similar ventilated heat source for at least two hours. Alternatively, you may use a heat gun, hairdryer, burnishing or polishing tool to heat the gunmetal. In heat controlled environments, do not exceed 150° F (65° C). In all applications that require heat to condition the firearm, always insure proper ventilation and wear protective clothing. Please consult our MSDS for additional information.

ULTIMATE PROTECTION: To maximize the effects of MILITEC-1, repeat Step One and Step Two while the firearm is still hot from the first firing session. MILITEC-1's impregnated molecular bond intensifies during the next 2-3 applications on hot gunmetal. MILITEC-1 has now become a physical part of the gunmetal.

SUBSEQUENT APPLICATIONS: It is important to continue using MILITEC-1 to lubricate your firearm throughout its normal service life. Consistent use of MILITEC-1 will maintain the self-lubricating effect, maximize corrosion protection, and minimize wear on all friction surfaces. Fouling, deposits and metallic debris do not adhere as easily to gunmetal surfaces conditioned with MILITEC-1. Use a safe, inexpensive cleaner or solvent to detail the firearm, if necessary. For maximum corrosion protection, and especially if long-term storage is anticipated, leave a very light film of MILITEC-1 on all surfaces, after both steps or field application procedures are completed.

APPLICABILITY: MILITEC-1 is recommended for all pistols, shotguns, rifles, automatic weapons, tank guns and artillery of all calibers and sizes. Note: MILITEC-1 will alleviate jamming due to tight tolerances.

[Fast351]

Hoppes #9
Outers Gun Oil

I also use Simple Green to get rid of carbon. Works awesome, biodegradable, etc. Just make sure you lube everything afterwards cause it strips all the lubricant too.

[JDR]

What do you folks use to keep your carry weapons properly oiled/protected. I carry my Kahr IWB and worry about the slide getting too much moisture from my summer self. The rails, barrel and everything else seem well lubed when I clean it, but the slide ...
Or am I just worrying too much. What should I put on the outside of the slide?
Thanks!

Me thinks you worry to much.

If you shoot the gun and clean it fairly often, I don't see any problem.

I also (more often than not) carry a Kahr (P version). in a IWB holster.

Although the "Answer" holster I use has a leather shield that keeps the gun from touching my body. Is your gun directly exposed to your body?

[tt3]

Me thinks you worry to much.

If you shoot the gun and clean it fairly often, I don't see any problem.

I also (more often than not) carry a Kahr (P version). in a IWB holster.

Although the "Answer" holster I use has a leather shield that keeps the gun from touching my body. Is your gun directly exposed to your body?

I carry a P40 in an Uncle Mike's IWB (until Monday when my Srigs IWB arrives). It keeps the slide off my skin, but I notice a distinct difference in the black finish after a few days. I clean it Sunday nights regardless of when I shot last.

[JDR]

tt3 wrote:

I carry a P40 in an Uncle Mike's IWB (until Monday when my Srigs IWB arrives). It keeps the slide off my skin, but I notice a distinct difference in the black finish after a few days. I clean it Sunday nights regardless of when I shot last.


So it's a Sunday night special.....I understand

[Pinnacle]

I went to the autoparts store for the majority of my re-up of Cleaning and Lubrication stuff last week.

$20 buys you a lifetime supply of Amsoil Synthetic Spray Grease (Stays where ya put it) and Amsoil MP (Metal protector) for outside cleaning and light lubrication.

Then there is a can of brake cleaner - I figure that I am in good shape for about the next 10 years on the Amsoil Stuff.

[JoeH]

I went to the autoparts store for the majority of my re-up of Cleaning and Lubrication stuff last week.

$20 buys you a lifetime supply of Amsoil Synthetic Spray Grease (Stays where ya put it) and Amsoil MP (Metal protector) for outside cleaning and light lubrication.

Then there is a can of brake cleaner - I figure that I am in good shape for about the next 10 years on the Amsoil Stuff.

So, you use brake cleaner for fouling and the Spray Grease for lube?

I wonder if many of the gun chemicals are auto chemicals with different labels and higher prices.

[DeanC]

You want the non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Costs the same.

Some people prefer carb-cleaner. There's some brands that are safe for plastic.

[hammAR]

There's some brands that are safe for plastic.

Shouldn't have plastic..................
plastic is not recyclable and causes global warming.................
simple solution for that...............

[plblark]

I've heard rumors of someone using vagisil as a field expedient lubricant in the sandbox. Any port in a storm and anything is better than nothing I guess