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Ordered this last week from Cheaper Than Dirt. The price was $75 less than others and they had it in stock. Used Capra's in Blaine for the FFL transfer as it was $15 less than others. Spoke to CTD on the phone and customer service was good. Working with the guys at Capra's was a joy.

Got it home and cleaned it up. Well made, very tight and nice. Disassembly and assembly good.

Now to the range. Headed to Metro Gun with three types of ammo. Winchester white box (100 rounds) Herters (sp) brass and two types of home defense rounds. Winchester white box worked very well. no misfeeds, FTF, FTE or feed.

Got 1/2 through the box of Herter's brass and began to consistently get light strikes on the primer. Required pulling the hammer back and re striking the round to obtain a successful fire. I will clean gun and retry with Blaser Brass when I can.

Looking to the group to offer thoughts on the light strikes. (no, I'm not too lazy to Google it, it's just that I respect the thoughts of this group, so please don't rip me for not Googling the interweb for answers.)

Conclusion: I'm not a gun expert but I enjoyed the feel of the weapon. I was able to successfully engage the target with small shot groups at 21 feet and at 50 feet. The trigger was the best I've shot. The weapon stores well in my IBW 1911 holster and doesn't bulge or reveil. Very comfortable to wear. I have a 7 handguns and this one is very high on my list.

Thanks in advance for thoughts on the light strikes.


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Does your have a plastic MSH? I think those are more likely to have burrs inside that would prevent free travel of the spring.

Disclaimer: this advice is speculation, I am only starting to learn about 1911s.

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Btw, when you run a search on Buds you get two hits on full size 9mm - one supposedly 8+1 and one 9+1... If you go through the menu only the more expensive option shows up .

Manufacturer says they only make 8+1. Which mags did you get?

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/adva ... mm&x=0&y=0

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I would start with the most obvious answer first for those that have experience with 1911's. You said that you shot WWB first and didn't experience this problem. If that is true and you started to have the problem with the Herters ammo then look to the ammo for the source of the problem. Sounds like the primers are not fully seated. Your first hammer strike is just seating the primer in the case fully so that when you re-cock the hammer it is able to ignite the primer as intended. Try some other ammo to verify this.
Yes, you can clean the gun better but from your description it doesn't sound gun related.

No comment on the gun per se, but you may wish to read up on the recent history of ctd before dong business with them in the future.

No comment on the gun per se, but you may wish to read up on the recent history of ctd before dong business with them in the future.

Big + 1 on that!

Even farther back history. I once actually got a web page for 4 months just to put my experiences with them out there for others to see.

LarryFlew wrote:Even farther back history. I one actually got a web page for 4 months just to put my experiences with them out there for others to see.

What are you trying to say here Larry?

But yea I would rather pay more then give CTD any money.

Really bad and expensive BS with nothing but run arounds so I did a web site describing that BS.

gun_fan111 wrote:Btw, when you run a search on Buds you get two hits on full size 9mm - one supposedly 8+1 and one 9+1... If you go through the menu only the more expensive option shows up .

Manufacturer says they only make 8+1. Which mags did you get?

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/adva ... mm&x=0&y=0

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9 fit in the mag


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Gun_fan111, what is a MSH? Thanks, Tom


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Main spring housing

So after a good cleaning and disassembly of the breach block and firing pin I found metal chards from the wear in of the firearm. May never know if the Herters was bad ammo or the metal shavings were causing disruption.

This has caused a learning observation on my part, will the group please check my logic here:

The impact of the hammer against the rear of the firing pin does not "drive" the pin into the primer as when a hammer strikes a nail and the nail goes into the wood. Rather, the hammer strikes the pin setting it on a path into the primer but loosing contact with the hammer as it travels. Right?


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Correct.

Here is a really informative animation posted originally in another thread a while back:

http://www.m1911.org/loader.swf

Standard size 1911's in 9mm fit 9 in the magazine. Herters if factory ammo so I'm guessing it has nothing to do with primer depth. Herters is notorious for hard primers, which can cause lite strikes. Herters has been difficult for folks shooting Glocks as well.

Clean your weapon. Get the grease that they pack those Armscor pistols in out of every nook and cranny. Re-lube. Shoot some more WWB and other loads. Try wolf/herters/etc... if you're still having trouble with the steel/import stuff, but not the domestic stuff, that will tell you something.

Armscor ships their 9mm 1911s with 15# mainsprings. You can go up to 17# if you need to, but I'm guessing you won't. I have a RIA 9mm 5", STI Spartan 5", and RIA officers all in 9mm and I haven't had to re-spring any of them. If you do need to re-spring, the material the mainspring housing is made out of will not have any effect on whether or not you can shoot Herters.