Just got a Model 10 Naval Service Revolver. Shoot it as is?

[Rufusf]

It is from the 1940's vintage some pitting in barrel. I heard the best way to get rid of pitting is to shoot it. I am knew to hand guns, but old (57). Is there any danger here? Thanks for any info.

[1911fan]

There is no way to repair pitting short of welding and reboring. If the pitting is minor, there is no issue shooting the gun. Even some pretty severely pitted barrels will shoot well, but those pits act like files and shave off bits of jacket or lead and will need to be cleaned out every few dozen shots to prevent a build up. A stainless bore brush with work to clean up the deposits.

[Rufusf]

There is no way to repair pitting short of welding and reboring. If the pitting is minor, there is no issue shooting the gun. Even some pretty severely pitted barrels will shoot well, but those pits act like files and shave off bits of jacket or lead and will need to be cleaned out every few dozen shots to prevent a build up. A stainless bore brush with work to clean up the deposits.

So it most likely won't blow up in my face? It was my fathers. I would like to shoot it, but would also just keep it.

[1911fan]

Well it shouldn't its a S&W model 10, marked US navy Property, Right? I have a Victory Model, which is the same thing only Army Issued, and I shoot it a lot.

[Rufusf]

thanks. 1911fan.
I am not a metalogist, but my guess would be that lead is softer than steel. It may not be a match pistol, but that is not my intent. Just want to use it once in a while.

[ijosef]

You should be just fine shooting it as is. Just remember not to shoot any +P loads or super hot handloads through her and you'll be fine. I'm not saying that your gun will fly apart if you shoot .38spl+P through it, but it is an unsafe practice since the old Model 10 revolvers were never designed for those pressures. Any regular off-the-shelf .38spl target loads like WWB or similar will be fine.

Whatever you do, don't give in to that guy at the range who comes up to you and says "hey, do you want to try some of my new handloads? I've got an ultra hot .38special load I made by packing as much power pistol into the case as I could before seating and crimping the bullet."

[onebohemian]

Instead of 38 special, didn't some of those guns come chambed in something called "38 S&W"? A few years back I was researching old Model 10 guns, but never bought one. I thought some of the older ones had the barrel marked different than 38 Spl. I've never understood whether there's a difference between the various .38 rounds.

[ijosef]

Instead of 38 special, didn't some of those guns come chambed in something called "38 S&W"? A few years back I was researching old Model 10 guns, but never bought one. I thought some of the older ones had the barrel marked different than 38 Spl. I've never understood whether there's a difference between the various .38 rounds.

The .38 S&W (aka the .38/200)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.38_S%26W

The .38 Special (aka .38 "Smith & Wesson" Special)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.38_S%26W_Special

Smith & Wesson Model 10
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_%26_Wesson_Model_10

The S&W Model 10 military revolvers produced from 1940 to 1945 had serial numbers with a "V" prefix, and were known as the Smith & Wesson Victory Model. It is noteworthy that early Victory Models did not always have the V prefix. During World War II, huge numbers - over 570,000 - of these pistols, chambered in the British .38/200 caliber already in use in the Enfield No 2 Mk I Revolver and the Webley Mk IV Revolver, were supplied to the United Kingdom, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa under the Lend-Lease program. Most Victory Models sent to Britain were fitted with 4" (102 mm) or 5" (127 mm) barrels, though a few early versions had 6" (150 mm) barrels.[5][6] In general, most British and Commonwealth forces expressed a preference for the .38/200 Smith & Wesson over their standard Enfield revolver.[7]

The Victory Model was also used by United States forces during WWII, being chambered in the well-known and popular .38 Special cartridge. The Victory Model was a standard-issue sidearm for US Navy and Marine aircrews, and was also used by guards at factories and defense installations throughout the United States during the war. Some of these revolvers remained in service well into the 1990s with units of the US Armed Forces, including the Coast Guard. Some Lend-Lease Victory Model revolvers originally chambered for the British .38/200 were returned to the U.S. and rechambered to fire the more popular and more powerful .38 Special ammunition, and such revolvers are usually so marked on their barrels. Rechambering of .38-200 cylinders to .38 Special results in oversized chambers which may cause problems.

Of course Whackapedia isn't always the greatest source of information, but the firearm and cartridge entries seem to be spot on. Given the nerd-like dedication a lot of gun enthusiasts have to ballistics and firearm history, I think that the vast majority of firearm entries are accurate and reliable.

[Rufusf]

You should be just fine shooting it as is. Just remember not to shoot any +P loads or super hot handloads through her and you'll be fine. I'm not saying that your gun will fly apart if you shoot .38spl+P through it, but it is an unsafe practice since the old Model 10 revolvers were never designed for those pressures. Any regular off-the-shelf .38spl target loads like WWB or similar will be fine.

Whatever you do, don't give in to that guy at the range who comes up to you and says "hey, do you want to try some of my new handloads? I've got an ultra hot .38special load I made by packing as much power pistol into the case as I could before seating and crimping the bullet."

Thanks, I heard of the +P and wondered what that was. I would most likely be real worried and shoot basic stuff, but that makes sense. I am relatively new to guns. I even told someone I would buy a 38 acp not knowing I did not know. Opps...
Like I said just a new guy.