Need help with my new (to me) 1911

[ijosef]

I just bought a used RIA 1911 and field stripped it for a quick cleaning. When I put it back together, I noticed that the hammer wouldn't cock. You could pull it back or rack the slide, but the hammer would just return right back. I thought it may have been an improper reassembly issue, so I took it down two more times and reassembled, taking extra care to put it together correctly. Same problem. I've taken my Springfield Milspec down tons of times without issue, so it has to be something else. I also noticed that the ambidextrous safety is frozen in place and won't move.

I'm wondering if it's an issue with the sear spring (after a web search, of course). I've never stripped a 1911 beyond the basic field takedown, so I don't know if I want to tackle it or not, especially if something is wrong with the gun. There are tons of guides on the web for taking down a 1911 and it doesn't look too difficult, but pictures can be deceiving!

[Seismic Sam]

Were you able to move the safety before you field stripped the gun??

[45Badger]

Sear isn't engaging the hammer hooks. Could be--

damaged sear/hammer hooks (unlikely)
trigger over travel- too far to rear (does it have adjustable trigger?)
sear spring not in place or bent out of whack
thumb safety not properly installed

[Jeff Bergquist]

Sear isn't engaging the hammer hooks. Could be--

damaged sear/hammer hooks (unlikely)
trigger over travel- too far to rear (does it have adjustable trigger?)
sear spring not in place or bent out of whack
thumb safety not properly installed

My first guess would be the sear spring not properly in place. Even now after many years playing with 1911s I sometimes have to reinstall them after reassembly cause I put it in wrong.

[Snowgun]

Sear isn't engaging the hammer hooks. Could be--
damaged sear/hammer hooks (unlikely)
trigger over travel- too far to rear (does it have adjustable trigger?)
sear spring not in place or bent out of whack
thumb safety not properly installed

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[Stradawhovious]

Did it work properly before you disassembled it?

You say field strip..... Did you have the mainspring housing off the frame?

Where are you located? I'd bet that a whole slew of folks on the forum could be easily coaxed into taking a look at this with you.

[ijosef]

Were you able to move the safety before you field stripped the gun??

I feel like a fool for saying this, but I'm not sure if I could or not. I think so, but I don't distinctly recall having done so. I know I cocked the hammer and racked the slide a few times right after purchase, but the first thing I did when I got home was field strip and clean it.

No, I didn't take the mainspring housing off the frame. I did take off the grip panels, but they're not attached to anything else (at least I don't think).

I'm located in Eagan, although I occassionaly make it up to the WBL/Hugo area since I'm a BESA member.

[Stradawhovious]

I know I cocked the hammer and racked the slide a few times right after purchase,

<snip>

No, I didn't take the mainspring housing off the frame. I did take off the grip panels, but they're not attached to anything else (at least I don't think).

These two things I find perplexing. The grip panels have absolutely zero to do with how the gun functions mechanically, and the only way the sear spring would be out of place is if it was installed incorrectly to begin with (in which case you would have had the troubles BEFORE you field stripped it) or if the mainspring housing was removed, and the spring was installed incorrectly.

What exactly did you do in your field strip? just remove the slide from the frame, or was it more than that?

I'm in S. Mpls, and am happy to take a look at it. I'm not a gunsmith, but I can detail strip and reassemble a 1911 in my sleep, unless its an effin' SIG or something with that stoopid 3 piece pin safety mechanism coupled to the sear.... then it takes me a couple minutes.

One of two things will happen. We will eaither get it back together and functioning, or we will be able to troubleshoot the problem and figure out what needs to happen to get it up and running.

The mechanics behind a 1911 are pretty simple, so it's not too tought to find out what is causing issues. I'm pretty sure there are others will extend the same offer.... maybe there is someone that lives closer to you....

[MNBlackjack]

On the ambi-safety...I only say this because it has happened to me before. What happens if you loosen the right grip? Sometimes you may need to remove some material from the under side of the right side grip that may be binding on the bottom toe of the right side of the safety that hugs the frame. If you loosen the grip and are then able to operate the safety, you'll know if that is the case.

[Seismic Sam]

Okay, here's the drill on 1911's: You depress the recoil spring plug on a 1911, rotate the barrel bushing to 90 one way, and SLOWLY allow the recoil spring plug and the recoil spring out of the front of the slide. This lets the slide go free, and then you can move it forward to the point that the slide release can be pushed out of the frame, and then you can remove the slide from the frame. You then remove the recoil spring plug from the recoil spring, and pull the recoil spring and base plug backwards out of the slide. You can then lift out the barrel from the slide, and that is the end of the field stip. Did you do anything else besides this when you took it apart???

[selurcspi]

PM me and I'll help you fix it!

[Lunchbox]

I'm in S. Mpls, and am happy to take a look at it. I'm not a gunsmith, but I can detail strip and reassemble a 1911 in my sleep, unless its an effin' SIG or something with that stoopid 3 piece pin safety mechanism coupled to the sear.... then it takes me a couple minutes.

I was about to say it didn't look like rukwikenuf's gave you too much trouble when we were at your place getting an in depth tour of the Sig 1911. But after getting interupted by a phone call from the girlfriend I forgot where I was going with that.

[45Badger]

Okay, here's the drill on 1911's: You depress the recoil spring plug on a 1911, rotate the barrel bushing to 90 one way, and SLOWLY allow the recoil spring plug and the recoil spring out of the front of the slide. This lets the slide go free, and then you can move it forward to the point that the slide release can be pushed out of the frame, and then you can remove the slide from the frame. You then remove the recoil spring plug from the recoil spring, and pull the recoil spring and base plug backwards out of the slide. You can then lift out the barrel from the slide, and that is the end of the field stip. Did you do anything else besides this when you took it apart???

I think he detail stripped it.......

[Seismic Sam]

Okay, here's the drill on 1911's: You depress the recoil spring plug on a 1911, rotate the barrel bushing to 90 one way, and SLOWLY allow the recoil spring plug and the recoil spring out of the front of the slide. This lets the slide go free, and then you can move it forward to the point that the slide release can be pushed out of the frame, and then you can remove the slide from the frame. You then remove the recoil spring plug from the recoil spring, and pull the recoil spring and base plug backwards out of the slide. You can then lift out the barrel from the slide, and that is the end of the field stip. Did you do anything else besides this when you took it apart???

I think he detail stripped it.......

Judging from his silence since the original post and all the advice that has been offered, I think you're right....

[Rem700]

OP appears to check in daily yet no updates