Revolver Recommendation

[David]

So, the July revolver steel shoot has me thinking I need a new revolver. I've got a 6" 629, a 6" Python, and a Single Six, none of which are very suitable for this sort of thing. What would you guys go for if you were looking for a good quality revolver that you could draw and shoot quickly, and didn't care too much about concealability? Also looking for recommendations on a holster, speedloaders, and mag pouches. I liked Pat's rig, but didn't look too closely at it for fear that he might think I was cruising him.

I'm thinking a 4" 686, but I'm open to suggestions. My understanding is that it's easier to get a good trigger job on them than a Ruger, and of course the 686 has tons of history and mojo, which are two of my main requirements in a firearm.

Bill's has this exact gun right now for something like $689. Assuming that's a good choice, is that a good price?

[DeanC]

Find a S&W model 22 or the new 325 Thunder Ranch

[David]

Hmm...45 ACP. I never thought of that. Do you have one, Dean? I'm curious to hear how it behaves compared to a .357. I definitely don't want a light frame, so that knocks out some of the .45s Smith makes, but the caliber itself sounds like a lot of fun.

[JoeH]

The 686 is the standard for this sort of thing if you want to go the speedloader route. S&W also has an SSR version of the 686 for competition shooting. The 4" gun is a good choice for action shooting.

Safariland Comp II or III speedloaders are very good. I've also heard good things about Jet Loaders.

CompTac makes great holsters for the 686 and 625. During my research on the subject, I've read that TKW holsters are very popular with competitive shooters. I'd go with one of the two.

Another option is to go the moonclip route and get a 625. That's what I plan to shoot at the July Steel Shoot.

Let me know if you need a source for a trigger job and charge hole chamfer.

[David]

Sheesh, you guys have me really seriously considering a .45! I notice that S&W makes an absolutely gorgeous 625 Jerry Miculek version.



Oh, and regarding the SSR, is there any serious difference between that and the standard 686, besides obvious cosmetics? Their website is kind of generic and crap overall. (EDIT: Never mind, I found a nice description of the differences!)




Finally, what's the feeling around here on seven shot vs. six shot? Are seven shot revolvers okay in a steel shoot?

[cobb]

I've got a 6" 629, a 6" Python, and a Single Six, none of which are very suitable for this sort of thing.

So why not the 629 or Python to start with? Target loads of .44 mag loads or .44 Special in the 629 and .38 Special loads in the Python.

Nothing wrong in getting a new gun, maybe a good excuse, but you could still play with one that you have.

[David]

I don't want to shoot the Python because it's vintage and in absolutely flawless condition. The thought of any holster wear on it at all makes me cringe. It's more of a collector's piece for me. I shoot it occasionally, but it will never see the inside of a holster.

I thought pretty seriously about using the 629, but I would like to get a smaller caliber with a shorter barrel anyway, and this, as you pointed out, is a good excuse to get one!

[Srigs]

Any 4" K-frame in 357 or 38 would be perfect.

[selurcspi]

You'll see me with a 5" 625 and Chinakay (if she shoots) with a 6" 686

Of course you won't be able to recognize the 625

[Einthoven's Triangle]

Gotta Love the 625! Once you shoot one you will be in love with it!

[Pat Cannon]

The 625 is the king of IDPA revolvers because reloading is so fast, just throwing a moonclip into those big .45 chambers. IDPA split the revolver division into Stock and Enhanced a year or two ago just so a 'normal' revolver could have a chance.

As far my rig goes, I'm using a Blade-Tech paddle holster (about $65) and I'm pretty happy with it. It feels a little top-heavy and wobbly to me, but then all my other holsters have been IWB. I see their web site says the paddle has since been redesigned "for added stability", which sounds good to me. I might have bought the Fobus for $25 if the model for the GP100 had existed then, even though it has goofy sci-fi-looking 'vents' for no apparent reason.

My speedloader carriers are old-style 'split-six' snap cover leather ones that I found on Gunbroker as a package deal with a couple of the Safariland speedloaders I was looking for. There are better, faster open top ones out there.

Those Safariland speedloaders I chose because I heard they were faster than the HKSs, and they are. HKS, for some reason, is the only brand I ever see in a store. They work fine but require twisting a knob to release the rounds. The Safarilands, on the other hand, release by simply pushing the loader straight down onto the cylinder. The Safarilands come in Comp I (compact), Comp II (slightly more prominent locking button, the kind I have), and Comp III. The Comp III has a long handle and is spring loaded so it shoots the rounds into the chambers; it's what the racers use. There's also Jetloaders which I gather are much like the Comp III, and several other rather rare or expensive or out-of-production brands [one these is the Dade, which I just noticed somebody is selling a bunch of on eBay].

Oh, yeah, there is also the Maxfire, which is one piece of molded rubber, sort of a round Speed Strip. The only people who buy these are cheap dumb people like me. Then they go buy something else.

In my hunt for Safariland speedloaders, it took some digging before I was sure which model was right for my gun; Safariland's site was not very clear. I know I'm not the only one with that problem, as my revolver came with one that was the wrong model! I wondered for quite a while why it worked so poorly. So anyway here's the results of my visits to the websites of various vendors:

Safariland Speedloader Models
J-N1: S&W N-Frame,27,28,38,357
J-S5: S&W N-Frame,29,629,624,44; Colt Anaconda,44 Magnum
J-C7: S&W 5-Shot,38 Special; S&W M60,357 Magnum,J-Frame, Ruger SP101
J-K2: Taurus 66,669,689; S&W L-Frame,10,12,13,14,15,19,64,66,67,68
J-GL8: Ruger GP100; S&W L-Frame,581,586,681, 686,357
J-D9: 38 Special,Detective Special,Agent,Cobra,Commando

[fatboy97]

Ruger GP100

[David]

Excellent information, guys, thank you!

For those of you who've got experience with a .45 ACP wheel gun, how would you compare the recoil to a .357? (Obviously, I know what the recoil in a .45 autoloader feels like.) And, what loads do people use for competition?

[selurcspi]

Excellent information, guys, thank you!

For those of you who've got experience with a .45 ACP wheel gun, how would you compare the recoil to a .357? (Obviously, I know what the recoil in a .45 autoloader feels like.) And, what loads do people use for competition?

The recoil in a stock gun is in between 38s and 357s, but my comp gun feels like a 22Mag.

[aviator]

Safariland Speedloader Models
J-N1: S&W N-Frame,27,28,38,357
J-S5: S&W N-Frame,29,629,624,44; Colt Anaconda,44 Magnum
J-C7: S&W 5-Shot,38 Special; S&W M60,357 Magnum,J-Frame, Ruger SP101
J-K2: Taurus 66,669,689; S&W L-Frame,10,12,13,14,15,19,64,66,67,68
J-GL8: Ruger GP100; S&W L-Frame,581,586,681, 686,357
J-D9: 38 Special,Detective Special,Agent,Cobra,Commando

Anyone know of a good speedloader for a Taurus 85. The ones I've used bind up on the grip when I try to disengage. Hank.