Glock 80% Frame

[linksep]

What say you MNGunTalk?

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2015/1 ... ock-frame/

http://www.polymer80.com/Polymer80-Spec ... _1788.html

[goosed]

$135(80% frame) + $340(complete slide) = $515+shipping Brand new off the shelf Glock runs between $500-600+tax.
Then add the fact 80% lowers are really best done in a mill not a drill press, imo.
None of their videos show me their Glock frame is any different to finish than a 80% lower.

I like the idea of things shipping to my door...
Just not enough price difference though to be worth the time investment or risk of creating a paper weight to be worth it for me.

[linksep]

I found a 22 G3 online and figured $610 shipped including FFL xfer and a $90 LWD barrel (to eliminate glock-bulge on .40 brass).

Then I figured $136 lower, $90 for LWD barrel, $250 for a take-off slide (ebay) or $325 for LWD slide complete, $60 for Glock adjustable rear and HIVIZ fiber optic front sights, $130 for a complete drop in trigger, and $50 for two OEM mags. That puts it $606-$791, granted that is with "upgraded" sights and trigger as well as flared mag-well when compared to a stock 22 G3.

I've never owned Glock and I wouldn't claim to be a gunsmith so I probably forgot a part or three, maybe could shave $ off by piecing trigger together from parts instead of an upgraded complete drop in fire control group...

[Ghost]

The question to ask, do you think you'd ever want to sell it?

[linksep]

I never acquire a firearm with the intent to sell, trade, or otherwise get rid of it.

[wasfuzz]

80 percenters can be sold, you just have to assign it a serial number - at least that is they info I was given by the ATF

[Ghost]

80 percenters can be sold, you just have to assign it a serial number - at least that is they info I was given by the ATF

Near as I can tell there are a lot of gray areas with 80% lowers and not the GOV is looking for test subjects to show that Obama's getting tough.

If you serialize it do you then report it to the ATF so they have a record of it? If not then I don't see how the serial # is beneficial. Purely asking as it's interesting not for confrontational fun.

[goosed]

Plenty of internet opinion out there on the rules you have to follow or not when making your own firearms... Not sure I understand why.
ATF's website seems pretty clear on it... below is a small section from their site.
Notice the underlined part, the law doesn't just apply to liscenced manufacturers and importers.

27 CFR 479.102

Q: How must firearms be identified?

You, as a manufacturer, importer, or maker of a firearm, must legibly identify the firearm as follows:
By engraving, casting, stamping (impressing), or otherwise conspicuously placing or causing to be engraved, cast, stamped (impressed) or placed on the frame or receiver thereof an individual serial number. The serial number must be placed in a manner not susceptible of being readily obliterated, altered, or removed, and must not duplicate any serial number placed by you on any other firearm. For firearms manufactured, imported, or made on and after January 30, 2002, the engraving, casting, or stamping (impressing) of the serial number must be to a minimum depth of .003 inch and in a print size no smaller than 1/16 inch; and

By engraving, casting, stamping (impressing), or otherwise conspicuously placing or causing to be engraved, cast, stamped (impressed), or placed on the frame, receiver, or barrel thereof certain additional information. This information must be placed in a manner not susceptible of being readily obliterated, altered or removed. For firearms manufactured, imported, or made on and after January 30, 2002, the engraving, casting, or stamping (impressing) of this information must be to a minimum depth of .003 inch. The additional information includes:

The model, if such designation has been made;

The caliber or gauge;

Your name (or recognized abbreviation) and also, when applicable, the same of the foreign manufacturer or maker;

In the case of a domestically made firearm, the city and State (or recognized abbreviation thereof) where you as the manufacturer maintain your place of business, or where you, as the maker, made the firearm; and

[linksep]

PART 478—COMMERCE IN FIREARMS AND AMMUNITION
§478.11 Meaning of terms.
Manufacturer. Any person engaged in the business of manufacturing firearms or ammunition. The term shall include any person who engages in such business on a part-time basis.

PART 479—MACHINE GUNS, DESTRUCTIVE DEVICES, AND CERTAIN OTHER FIREARMS
§479.11 Meaning of terms.
Manufacturer. Any person who is engaged in the business of manufacturing firearms.

IANAL but everything I have read says you do not need to serialize a homemade (built by you for your personal use) unless you decide to sell. Everything I have read says it's probably a good idea to serialize any homemade.

[goosed]

Maybe it wasn't clear as I didn't quote things properly like I should have, but I didn't write any of that. The only thing I did that wasn't a straight copy and paste from ATF website is bold/underline what I feel are the key words. I don't see how it can be over looked that the ATF included both "manufacture" and "maker" in opening sentence. To me that is pretty clear... manufactures and makers are two separate entities... however they both must follow marking instructions.

I even dug further to verify I wasn't off base...

Straight from the Q&A section of the ATF website on receiver blanks(also known as 80% lowers).

Receivers that meet the definition of a “firearm” must have markings, including a serial number. See 27 CFR § 478.92

I don't see how it can get any more clear... but then again my opinion is only worth what you paid for it. Feel free to do as you see fit.

[wasfuzz]

80 percenters can be sold, you just have to assign it a serial number - at least that is they info I was given by the ATF

Near as I can tell there are a lot of gray areas with 80% lowers and not the GOV is looking for test subjects to show that Obama's getting tough.

If you serialize it do you then report it to the ATF so they have a record of it? If not then I don't see how the serial # is beneficial. Purely asking as it's interesting not for confrontational fun.

Again only basing this on a causal conversation with an ATF agent - yes first sale would have to go thru an FFL after you serialize and engrave it ( I left that out initially, my bad). If you look back on the old 80 percent build party post's is was determined that it had to be marked to even go into a gunsmith for finishing.

[Ghost]

80 percenters can be sold, you just have to assign it a serial number - at least that is they info I was given by the ATF

Near as I can tell there are a lot of gray areas with 80% lowers and not the GOV is looking for test subjects to show that Obama's getting tough.

If you serialize it do you then report it to the ATF so they have a record of it? If not then I don't see how the serial # is beneficial. Purely asking as it's interesting not for confrontational fun.

Again only basing this on a causal conversation with an ATF agent - yes first sale would have to go thru an FFL after you serialize and engrave it ( I left that out initially, my bad). If you look back on the old 80 percent build party post's is was determined that it had to be marked to even go into a gunsmith for finishing.

Ok, that makes sense. Serializing an 80% lower seems counter to the purpose of an 80% lower. You can buy cheaper finished lowers for less.

Also goes for whomever wants to buy the completed 80% lower from the original "manufacturer", only reason to do so is because it's un-serialized.

[wasfuzz]

I agree it is usually more cost effective to by a finished lower, but it was one of those things I just wanted to try once to say I did it!

[Ironbear]

I any case it seems like it would be a whole lot less trouble to slap some numbers on it, then to have explain to some official why you have an unserialized firearm...

[EAJuggalo]

I found a 22 G3 online and figured $610 shipped including FFL xfer and a $90 LWD barrel (to eliminate glock-bulge on .40 brass).

Then I figured $136 lower, $90 for LWD barrel, $250 for a take-off slide (ebay) or $325 for LWD slide complete, $60 for Glock adjustable rear and HIVIZ fiber optic front sights, $130 for a complete drop in trigger, and $50 for two OEM mags. That puts it $606-$791, granted that is with "upgraded" sights and trigger as well as flared mag-well when compared to a stock 22 G3.

I've never owned Glock and I wouldn't claim to be a gunsmith so I probably forgot a part or three, maybe could shave $ off by piecing trigger together from parts instead of an upgraded complete drop in fire control group...

Why are you interested in a Glock? Cause this ain't one. Every part you change brings it further from being a Glock and reduces reliability especially changing the barrel and fire control group. Now if you want it just to say you made it and screw around at the range with it, then I say have fun I look forward to you posting pictures of it when it's done. If you think you might ever want to use this for defense, either personal or home, I'd suggest you just buy a G22 and be done with it. They can usually be found for less than $500 new with a little searching and even as little as $350 used.