MNGunTalk.com

Just announced. I still don't have a 1911. 10mm could be fun. But I hesitate to buy a semi-auto handgun with expensive brass. Also the stock trigger on the 45ACP 1911 Target is pretty poor for a gun labeled "target".

http://www.ruger.com/products/sr1911/sp ... /6739.html

Wonder why they went with the bull barrel in a full size gun

I read it has to do with the bushing-less barrel lockup. The barrel actually tapers to a larger diameter at it approaches the muzzle.

1911 triggers are pretty easy to fix or upgrade to better parts.

If the street price is right, this could be a fun gun.

TeeBee wrote:I read it has to do with the bushing-less barrel lockup. The barrel actually tapers to a larger diameter at it approaches the muzzle.

Right, you can have a bushing or a bull barrel but most large scale manufacturers choose to use a bushing in 5" guns including Ruger in their 45 ACP guns.

Did you mean expensive BRASS or expensive AMMO?? Most 10mm ammo is watered down crap, and is barely faster than 40 Short & Weak ammo. The original spec for 10mm is a 200 grain bullet at 1200 FPS , and for the Short & Weak it's a 180 grain bullet at 980 FPS. The cheap 10mm crap is a 180 grain slug at 1030 FPS. WHOPEEEEEEE The brass itself doesn't cost that much more than 40 S&W, which is why I asked the question. If you handload, this is one of THE calibers where you can save a ton of money. If you don't handload, there are about 3 manufacturers that put out REAL 10mm ammo, and it is on the spendy side.

Finally, the whole concept of buying your FIRST 1911 in 10mm rather than 45 seems a bit odd, and if you have several other 45's then it's probably no big deal. If you don't have several other 45's that you have shot a lot, then it could be a bit of a rude awakening the first time you shoot some 200 grain Buffalo Bore ammo. And finally, if the trigger is on the lousy side, I'd take a pass regardless of the caliber, and with hot 10mm loads you REALLY don't want that thing recoiling on you when you're not ready for it.

Seismic Sam wrote:Did you mean expensive BRASS or expensive AMMO?? Most 10mm ammo is watered down crap, and is barely faster than 40 Short & Weak ammo. The original spec for 10mm is a 200 grain bullet at 1200 FPS , and for the Short & Weak it's a 180 grain bullet at 980 FPS. The cheap 10mm crap is a 180 grain slug at 1030 FPS. WHOPEEEEEEE The brass itself doesn't cost that much more than 40 S&W, which is why I asked the question. If you handload, this is one of THE calibers where you can save a ton of money. If you don't handload, there are about 3 manufacturers that put out REAL 10mm ammo, and it is on the spendy side.

Finally, the whole concept of buying your FIRST 1911 in 10mm rather than 45 seems a bit odd, and if you have several other 45's then it's probably no big deal. If you don't have several other 45's that you have shot a lot, then it could be a bit of a rude awakening the first time you shoot some 200 grain Buffalo Bore ammo. And finally, if the trigger is on the lousy side, I'd take a pass regardless of the caliber, and with hot 10mm loads you REALLY don't want that thing recoiling on you when you're not ready for it.

My .40 short and week moves a 300 gr pill at 2200

Ruger makes a strong frame. The bull barrel was said to be for added weight to combat muzzle flip.

Rock Island has a 10mm for around $600ish that seems to be a popular item (some of them I've seen were well built from outward appearances). If Ruger has this in the $750-850 range, they might peel some of that business with stainless and their brand recognition. The $1050 MSRP suggests it likely won't be too far off that bracket when it hits shelves.

Sam's right about wanting full house 10mm. No sense in getting the longer case and not stuffing it. With the black bears we've been dealing with up North this year, having more punch than .45 acp is looking more and more attractive. Of course I do have that STI frame in the safe still...

Now that I look I guess the brass is not as expensive as I thought. I don't have other 45's and I'm not a 1911 fanatic so I do not feel that I "have" to have one in 45. Thus the reason I don't have one yet. And while tempting a new shotgun is higher on my list than this.

FJ540 wrote:If Ruger has this in the $750-850 range, they might peel some of that business with stainless and their brand recognition. The $1050 MSRP suggests it likely won't be too far off that bracket when it hits shelves.

The 45 ACP version has the same MSRP and I know I have seen it retail for $840 or $860 (can't remember which one).

Seismic Sam wrote:If you handload, this is one of THE calibers where you can save a ton of money.

That got me thinking.

You could save even more by simply not shooting a caliber.

Which has me thinking about the many thousands of dollars I've saved, over the years, by not shooting 20mm Lahti.

I've probably saved enough to buy a new boat...

jdege wrote:You could save even more by simply not shooting a caliber.

Which has me thinking about the many thousands of dollars I've saved, over the years, by not shooting 20mm Lahti.

But where would be the fun in that? As a counter argument for me reloading some calibers saves me money not due to lower cost but lower quantity that I shoot. For example I have a 6x45 AR15 rifle. If I had a 5.56 I would be tempted by the plethora of bulk 223/5.56 ammo on the shelves. I see others rapid fire through 30 round magazines. But I know how long it took me to make those 30 rounds so I take my time and thus in the end I shoot less.

FJ540 wrote:Ruger makes a strong frame. The bull barrel was said to be for added weight to combat muzzle flip.

Rock Island has a 10mm for around $600ish that seems to be a popular item (some of them I've seen were well built from outward appearances). If Ruger has this in the $750-850 range, they might peel some of that business with stainless and their brand recognition. The $1050 MSRP suggests it likely won't be too far off that bracket when it hits shelves.

Sam's right about wanting full house 10mm. No sense in getting the longer case and not stuffing it. With the brown bears we've been dealing with up North this year, having more punch than .45 acp is looking more and more attractive. Of course I do have that STI frame in the safe still...

Brown bears? I didn't know you'd find them here. See Rodentmans 460 thread for the solution to that problem.

Just as I'm funding up to purchase a Glock 40, this appears.

Marvellous. Just bloody marvellous.

https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/mob ... _stainless

Already in stock online

I do wish it had a fixed rear sight. Anybody knows what cut Ruger used? Bomar?

grimbeaver wrote:

jdege wrote:You could save even more by simply not shooting a caliber.

But where would be the fun in that?

Depends upon where you go in the boat...