Oh boy I got a kit to reload.

[mnglocker]

Heck I don't need lube for reloading. I bought Carbide dies.

BS, it'll make your brass last longer.

Intresting, everything I have read says I don't need lube with carbide dies. When are you using it, during resizing?

Exactly. That's the high friction/stress/heat part of reloading.

[Norsesmithy]

Intresting, everything I have read says I don't need lube with carbide dies. When are you using it, during resizing?

There is a difference between "don't need lube" and "no benefit to using lube".

I bought the rock chucker, and for me, it was a great investment, because despite the fact that I am only currently loading .223 and .45, I've got half a dozen rare or surplus calibers I shoot, and that's the sort of thing that the items in this kit do best (just need to find a die set for 7.7x58 Jap for less than a hunnert bucks, the bore on mine is NOT nice enough to take advantage of micrometer dies or other high buck gear).

But I don't use the lube pad either (I just get a bit of Bag Balm on my fingers and give the brass a quick once over).

[DeanC]

it's the RCBS lube that sucks.

I'd rather use my own snot than that stuff

Imperial sizing die wax, That stuff works awsome on the lube pad,

I don't bother with the pad, I just use my thumb and finger.

It's also good on chapped lips.

Hoppes #9 for cologne and Imperial sizing wax for lip gloss.

[rugersol]

Heck I don't need lube for reloading. I bought Carbide dies.

BS, it'll make your brass last longer.

Intresting, everything I have read says I don't need lube with carbide dies. When are you using it, during resizing?

What you've read is right!

Regarding straight-wall pistol-calibers (not .357sig), carbide-dies = no-lube.

If it's revolver brass, and it helps ya sleep at night, go for it! But 9mm? ... ya'll be lucky to see 1/3 of whatever ya shoot, again.

[TH3180]

What you've read is right!

Regarding straight-wall pistol-calibers (not .357sig), carbide-dies = no-lube.

If it's revolver brass, and it helps ya sleep at night, go for it! But 9mm? ... ya'll be lucky to see 1/3 of whatever ya shoot, again.

How come .357sig is different then all other pistol brass? I don't have anything that shoots that right now, but I may someday.

[bluelens]

Big time agree with Ahrens. You can collect all your brass from a revolver or bolt action rifle easily. For pistol, I have never once collected 100% of my brass. Even shooting on private property and very controlled conditions, I lost a couple rounds of brass. So case life is not really an issue for pistol. At any of the local ranges it is hard to recover your brass. However, with 9 mm you have a good chance of recovering other peoples brass at the range

[rugersol]

What you've read is right!

Regarding straight-wall pistol-calibers (not .357sig), carbide-dies = no-lube.

If it's revolver brass, and it helps ya sleep at night, go for it! But 9mm? ... ya'll be lucky to see 1/3 of whatever ya shoot, again.

How come .357sig is different then all other pistol brass? I don't have anything that shoots that right now, but I may someday.

It's "bottlenecked" ... unlikely ya'll find carbide dies ... and even if ya do, the manufacturer'll probly recommend usin' lube, anyhow.

[rugersol]

However, with 9 mm you have a good chance of recovering other peoples brass at the range

Jeez! ... I didn't think of that!

Ok, I changed my mind ... I want everyone else to lube their 9mm cases!

[Seismic Sam]

Heck I don't need lube for reloading. I bought Carbide dies.

BS, it'll make your brass last longer.

DOUBLE BS, GO AWAY boy!!!

I recently threw out some 9mm cases that I had been reloading on and off for at least 33 years with a Durachrome carbide size die, and the only reason I threw them out was that they were oddball headstamps and there were only a few left of each headstamp. You do not need to lube straight walled pistol and rifle cases if you are using a carbide die!! You do, however, have to lube bottle neck cases (like .223 and 357 SIG) even if you are using a carbide die. (And BTW - bottleneck carbide dies are pricey!!)

[TH3180]

Heck I don't need lube for reloading. I bought Carbide dies.

BS, it'll make your brass last longer.

DOUBLE BS, GO AWAY boy!!!

I recently threw out some 9mm cases that I had been reloading on and off for at least 33 years with a Durachrome carbide size die, and the only reason I threw them out was that they were oddball headstamps and there were only a few left of each headstamp. You do not need to lube straight walled pistol and rifle cases if you are using a carbide die!! You do, however, have to lube bottle neck cases (like .223 and 357 SIG) even if you are using a carbide die. (And BTW - bottleneck carbide dies are pricey!!)

Alright I think I've got it. As long as I am loading straight walled pistol cases with carbide dies, the only time lube should come into play is when I'm playing hide the pickle with the wife.

[DeanC]

It won't hurt anything to lube a straight walled pistol cartridge now and then and it might make things go smoother depending on how well the factory finished the carbide ring in your die.

[Seismic Sam]

It won't hurt anything to lube a straight walled pistol cartridge now and then and it might make things go smoother depending on how well the factory finished the carbide ring in your die.

I disagree, in that it could hurt A LOT if you lube a full power 44 mag or 454 Casull load and forget to get all the lube off of even ONE case, and a full power 10mm load in an auto could be nasty too. I have yet to run across a carbide die that is so poorly finished that it causes noticable drag on the cases. This is probably because the carbide itself has to be diamond or CBN (cubic boron nitride) ground to dimension, as it's impossible to machine tungsten carbide like you do steel. Yes, there are poorly finished steel dies out there (and the Lee expander dies are the worst!!), but not carbide dies. In addition, tungsten carbide is quite slippery in its own right when polished, so I don't think there's an need for lube ever with a straight walled carbide die.

And lubing straight walled cases is a PITA, and wiping the lube off with paper towels is a PITA, and using a towel will eventually get you to the point where the towel has as much lube as the case, and the same goes for tumbling media used to get the lube off. the way I do it is to wash all the bottleneck cases in a collander with dish soap, and then let them dry from the heat of the pilot light in my gas oven. It takes a while, but you'll never miss a case and the lube is gone forever and not hanging around on a towel or in your tumbler.

[DeanC]

it could hurt A LOT if you lube a full power 44 mag or 454 Casull load and forget to get all the lube off of even ONE case

Then you would be a dumbass.

[Seismic Sam]

it could hurt A LOT if you lube a full power 44 mag or 454 Casull load and forget to get all the lube off of even ONE case

Then you would be a dumbass.

Nice SS impersonation, Dean!! or was that RAGGED you were doing?? And the point I'm trying to make here is that the "lube the cases now and then" advice puts you straight on the path to the Dumbass Hotel. (It's down at the end of Kaboom Street, two blocks over from Lonely Street.) Good reloading has to be based on doing the same thing EVERY time, with no exceptions!! Straight walled cases with carbide dies you NEVER lube, ever!! Bottleneck cases you ALWAYS lube, and that keeps things straight. For a newbie without a solid routine, or an old geezer like me with a faulty memory, allowing exceptions on case lubing is a VERY bad idea!!

So quit acting all huffy, and go count another pile of beans, already!!