BuckKlier wrote:Where would one start, what powder and what charge????

Well, that would assume that somebody else had worked the whole thing out already with .223 sabots in a 300BLK and had data to share. Considering the website I linked you to DIDN'T have 300BLK data, it's an odds-on bet you may be one of the first people to want to try this. So YOU'RE going to be the Guinea Pig, and it's going to be YOUR butt (actually, face and hands) on the line. My recommendation, FWIW, would be to go with the 30-30 data as it's the oldest, weakest, and lowest capacity round in the list of cartridges shown. Calculate the ratio of internal volume of a 30-30 case to a 300BLK case, scale a 30-30 load back to the degree that a 300BLK case has less capacity, and see what you get. Regardless of whether there is data out there or not, this is a task that CANNOT be accomplished without a chrono. Don't remember if you have one or not. Welcome to the deep end of the reloading pool. Either you got what it takes to figure out how to swim in these waters, or you don't. There ain't no room service and there ain't no menus out here to order from. Quite frankly, I think it's very doable, and you just have to pick the powder and the starting charge.
P.S. Compare the 30-30 Sabot loads with standard light weight (110 grain) 30 caliber loads, and see which way the charge weight goes and also how much faster burning powder is selected for the sabot. That will tell you a lot about how charge weight and burn rates shift going from a light 30 caliber bullet to a 55 - 70 grain .224 bullet.