Reloading .357 Sig

[Seismic Sam]

Unless your AA#7 powder charges are compressed (and I doubt they are...) I would question the theory that a slow gentle ram movement will produce a different cartridge OAL than a hard fast movement. 357 Sig brass is pretty tight in the neck, and also fairly uniform, so I doubt the seating speed can make any difference. The ram will come to the top of its stroke at the exact same position regardless of its speed, and I think the case mouth grip is way too tight to allow the bullet to "slide" further into the case.

Now with compressed loads of AA#9 powder, ram speed is VERY much a factor because you are compressing the powder and there is some springback in the compressed powder that can push the bullet back out of the case. I have found that a slow, deliberate ram movement should be done to initially compress the powder, followed by a 2nd bump at an equally slow speed. The fact that you have a single station press will complicate things, because the way I do it on my turret press is to seat the bullet with the slow double bump method, and then shift the turret and crimp the bullet only a couple of seconds later. You will probably have to seat 50 bullets, and then put in the crimp die ASAP, and be sure to measure the rounds to make sure the bullets have not backed out of the case before you apply the crimp. You will have to watch this like a hawk!! It almost might be worth it to get a Lee single stage press that comes with the reloading manual for about $30 if you don't already have the Lee manual.

[Rodentman]

I have some factory Hornady ammo that has cannelured bullets. I read that some people will put a cannelure on the bullet or even the case to prevent setback. Seems that it would weaken the case. The Hornady rounds don't seem to have a roll crimp into the groove, but rather a taper crimp. So why the cannelure. Maybe they are glued there. I'd cannelure my MT gold bullets if I thought it would do any good, but I am not convinced. Also I read that the round headspaces on the casemouth, or shoulder, or even both.

I resized all the brass I got from Gearguy by running it thru the GRX die and then the Dillon resizer. It drops and seats just fine in my barrel. But they're not charged yet....

I have some factory rounds that I reloaded and will crimp with the Lee FCD to see how well that works. Of course I've read many pros and cons. Seems to be a lot of variability.

[RB98SS]

There is a extremely knowledgeable and experianced 357sig reloader on THR that cannelures prior to, and then roll crimps his bullets when reloading. He is extremely helpful and is probably the most respected goto guy with questions regarding this caliber. You may already know of him. I purchased a cannelure tool also when I began reloading 357sig a while back as per chatting with him. It's a lot of work to put a cannelure on a copper jacketed bullet. I used it for a while but once I gained some more experience and started using the Lee FCD I haven't used it since. if you'd like, I can let you use the tool and see if you think it is of value to you. You can PM me if you want the name of the guy at THR. I'm not sure he would want his username posted here so out of respect I won't.

I have some factory Hornady ammo that has cannelured bullets. I read that some people will put a cannelure on the bullet or even the case to prevent setback. Seems that it would weaken the case. The Hornady rounds don't seem to have a roll crimp into the groove, but rather a taper crimp. So why the cannelure. Maybe they are glued there. I'd cannelure my MT gold bullets if I thought it would do any good, but I am not convinced. Also I read that the round headspaces on the casemouth, or shoulder, or even both.

I resized all the brass I got from Gearguy by running it thru the GRX die and then the Dillon resizer. It drops and seats just fine in my barrel. But they're not charged yet....

I have some factory rounds that I reloaded and will crimp with the Lee FCD to see how well that works. Of course I've read many pros and cons. Seems to be a lot of variability.

[Seismic Sam]

Don't worry about having a cannelure in the bullet or trying to put one in. The LEE FCD in 357 SIG has a VERY positive crimping action with its collet fingers, so it's superior to your normal straighwalled LEE FCD. Since the MT Gold is longer, you have to seat it deeper, and back off on the powder to compensate. I seat the MT Golds with an OAL of 1.140" and 13.8 grains of AA#9 gets you the full velocity of 1450 FPS. With the Speer 125 grain GD, the manual calls for 14.6 grains of powder.

[gyrfalcon]

... The LEE FCD in 357 SIG has a VERY positive crimping action with its collet fingers, so it's superior to your normal straighwalled LEE FCD....

So do you don't think a Redding .357sig taper crimp die wouldn't be good? The collet crimps seem to be harder on the brass, and I'm not sure about accuracy attributes compared to a taper crimp round loaded the same way.

[Seismic Sam]

No, I do NOT think the Redding taper crimp die would be better, and it's way more expensive. The Lee 357 Sig die exerts a uniform crimp on 98% - 99% of the case mouth, so it's not like you're staking the bullet down in 4 locations and leaving brass dimples showing where the collet fingers weren't. It's a really slick die.

[Rodentman]

My Lee FCD arrived today. First step is to take it apart and clean it. I see some metal shavings inside.

I know this is a STOOPID question but the instructions say to screw the die in until it touches the shellholder, and then turn it in another half turn. Adjust in for a heavier crimp...my question is: If the die is screwed down enough to not allow the ram to be raised full length, what stops the round, the die? How do you control the crimp? Does the die "give."

Also, is the crimp adjusted by raising or lowering the die body, or by the knob on top, as with the straight walled FCD's.

Well, I'll probably determine my answers soon as I get going at the bench. I DO plan to measure the neck before and after crimping. I think .377-.378 is right for the crimped neck.

[DeanC]

You screw it in initially until it just kisses the shellholder. The final half-turn allows the ram to just barely "cam over" on the up stroke.

[Rodentman]

Dean, thanks I see that now. BUT my problem is that the crimp seems insufficient. I can easily push the bullets deeper into the case by pressing them against my bench, and it doesn't take a lot of pressure. I pulled the bullets out enough to reseat them and there appears to be a slight groove shaped into the bullet, so the die IS crimping. I tried my Dillon crimper and it seemed tighter but still allowed me to push the bullets in. I am not satisfied that the rounds are safe to shoot, and I have learned enough to know not to test this theory at the range. I am at a loss, other than cranking down the crimping dies and trying again. I have enough $ tied up in this caliber so that I want to make it work. But not enough money to risk a KB.

I know there's a limit to the FCD, maybe I haven't reached it. But I don't want to damage the die.

Any further advice? I am puzzled why I can't seem to get a good crimp. I measure .377-.378 at the neck. I BARELY flared the cases. JUST enough to start the bullet w/o shaving. Bullets are MT Gold 125g specifically for this caliber from John.

[Rodentman]

Well I cranked the FCD down to the shellholder. Yes I raised the ram first. Then I gave it 3/4 turn instead of the suggested 1/2 turn. Got about as much crimp as I'd care to. Still could push the bullets in from 1.14 to 1.12 and even 1 went in to 1.11. Not sure if this will be an issue. My thumb is darn sore though. I think I'll try AA#9 and get the benefit of the powder supporting the bullet.

[RB98SS]

RM,

You have a PM.

[RB98SS]

RM,

I couldn't help but laugh when I looked at your original post

Used 10.0g of Blew Dot, seated bullet to 1.135.

I don't know if that was a typo or you being funny. Either way it gave me a chuckle.

[Seismic Sam]

My apologies for the initial content of this post, as my elderly and faulty memory failed me. The Lee 357 Sig die IS set by screwing it into the press until it contacts the loaded round, and is then screwed further into the press to get the crimp to the proper strength. There is NO adjustment with the top knob. My bad, I'm sorry about that!!

As to Rodentman's last post about not getting enough crimp because the die was turned in too far, that I am fairly sure is not the case. With a die like that you can drive the case mouth all the way into the bullet and perhaps crack the jacket, but turning it in too far will NOT give you too little crimp.

It's really embarassing to be older than Tootsie....

[gyrfalcon]

I almost want to buy a .357sig now so I can reload for it... It's one of the few pistols besides 7.62x25 that's bottle necked, and reloading 7.62x25 is not exactly cost effective. The 6.5x25mm CBJ also seems cool if any 9mm's are retrofitted for it.

[Rodentman]

The way things are going I may have a few hundred brass and dies to expose of. I can probably use the bullets for 9mm. I have some Sierra #8125 that are OK for .357 sig per the Sierra manual. Interesting that Sierra shows 8.6g to 10.5g of AA#7 with this 125g JHP bullet. Speer lists 11.1g to 12.3g AA#7 with their 125g jacketed bullet.

Sam, I will try your instruction with the FCD even though Lee's instructions are different. You probably know better than they do, anyway.

I like Blew Dot powder. Never tried Groin Dot however.