I want to get started in reloading. What to get?

[DeanC]

I've been loading .38 & .357 for three years and I haven't broken a decapping pin; on the Lee die if you overload it, it pushes up into the die instead of breaking.

I also have not used the chamfer/reamer. For 9mm I'm pretty sure you won't either.

Same with sizing wax.

True dat

[Scott Notaeh]

I like your scale. The Lyman PRO 505 is pretty much the same thing, but $20 less.

Never used that powder measure, but have heard a number of complaints.

-SNIP-
Get a Lee Perfect Powder measure, and a Lee Autoprime system (Both cheap). You will need a good beam balance (Like a Redding 505), and ABOVE ALL, avoid cheap electronic balaces like a bad case of the clap!!!
-SNIP-

On the scale (and everything else), I am just going by what SS said. I don't want the clap so I pulled up the recommended Redding. If I can safely substitute the Lyman, I will. LY7752222 PRO 505 RELOADER SCALE $53.84

On the powder measure, I saw a great post by SS that showed the Lee measure being very accurate especially on certain powders. He did mention that it was a pain to use though. Not sure how much the recommendations were swayed by me saying that I am cheap. Just know that I am so cheap I only want to buy stuff once so I want to start with stuff that will meet my needs. If there is a better powder measure, fine and good.

[DeanC]

If I am not mistaken, the Redding 505, the Lyman 505, and the RCBS 505 are all made by the same company: Ohaus, who also makes, you guessed it, the Ohaus 505. They only have cosmetic differences.

And like I said, I haven't used the Lee powder measure. But, a big point in it's favor is that it was designed to work with the Lee Powder through expander dies that come in the 4 die set.

[Seismic Sam]

Sizing wax is only for rifle cases. Dean is right, don't spend money on extra decapping pins unless you need them. The Lee Perfect powder measure tends to get harder to throw with fine ball powders, and you may have to reset the tension adjustment screw a bit. And JUST a bit (like 1/8th turn), and get used to BL-(C)2 being a PITA to measure. You could spend a lot more money on a powder measure, but the $200 Harrell measures have their own set of drawbacks.

[DeanC]

the $200 Harrell measures have their own set of drawbacks.

True enough. My guru bought one and was really kind of dismayed.

[crbutler]

Sizing wax/lube is not only for rifle cases.

Back in the bad old days most pistol dies were not carbide, and you need to lube your cases with them.

The new carbide dies don't need lubing in pistol calibers. Rifle and steel dies do.

Mainly nit picking, but given all the artifacts that folks are showing off, might be worthwhile to remember...

[Scott Notaeh]

Sizing wax is only for rifle cases. Dean is right, don't spend money on extra decapping pins unless you need them. The Lee Perfect powder measure tends to get harder to throw with fine ball powders, and you may have to reset the tension adjustment screw a bit. And JUST a bit (like 1/8th turn), and get used to BL-(C)2 being a PITA to measure. You could spend a lot more money on a powder measure, but the $200 Harrell measures have their own set of drawbacks.

I put the wax on the list because in reading up on old posts on here that particular kind was highly recommended and I will need it for the rifle cartridge reloading later. Decapping pins are out. Read somewhere else where they were suggested but it must have been for a different set of dies. Thanks again. I will go back to reading before I ask something overly stupid.

[DeanC]

I will go back to reading before I ask something overly stupid.

Bah. You aren't being stupid. You are doing just fine.

Stupid is the guy who comes in here with a list like yours and is abso-fricking-lutely sure they already know everything they need to know and then gets all pissy when someone tries to tell them something they do/don't need or offer some input.

[RLF2011]

The Lyman Turret press has a lot of flex in the head., more then RCBS Turret Press, and it nowhere near the quality of the Redding T7. While perhaps not a big deal for reloading most handgun rounds, it can be down the road if you get into sizing larger cases. Or if you want to ger picky with using fancy seater dies.

Instead putting a kit together you might want to consider the RCBS RC Supreme Master Kit, Midway has them for $319, except dies and shell holder and a caliper you are set to go. Or try my favorite online gun shop Buds a bit less at 297, http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/prod ... s_id/64468. You get good quality that will serve you well over your reloading career. Now, here are some things to consider. RCBS has a $50 rebate for purchases over $300 http://www.rcbs.com/pdf/RC201_WebRebateCoupon.pdf so that knocks the price down a good chunk of change, or pays for RCBS Carbide Die Set. Better Quality then Lee, but Lee are serviceable. Next, if you google MIdway USA you usually find a discount coupon to use and get the price down to Bud's price.

The RCBS® Rock Chucker™ Supreme Master Reloading Kit contains all the gear you need to start loading like a pro! Includes the single-stage Supreme Press, 5-0-5 scale, Uniflow™ powder measure, Speer® reloading manual, hand priming tool, hex key set, case loading block, case lube kit, powder funnel, and deburring tool.

The Rockchucker Supreme is the gold standard for single stage presses, save for say the Forster CoAx that the precision rifle reloaders seem to like a lot.

The RCBS Hand priming tool is worlds better than the Lee Auto Prime. This uses RCBS brand shell holders that you use on the press, so you do not have to be getting separate shell holders for the Auto Prime. The Auto Prime is a POS. And, Lee does not stand behind their stuff like RCBS does. A quick call to RCBS has gotten me a new hammer bullet puller, and some other parts for my Uniflow lost during a move. Lee will never be that good. Speaking of a Bullet Puller the RCBS hammer type is a good one to get.

The RCBS Uniflow is a good powder thrower, and it can be upgraded with micrometer to help with repeating your previous settings. Oh, if you start loading rifle you may consider a powder trickler, too.

Snagging your own copy of the Lyman Reloading Manual is a good idea. It has good data for hard cast lead bullets for handguns.

Do not buy powder or primers online unless you are buying volume, the haz mat will kill any perceived savings.

For lead bullets look at Missouri Bullets, the postman hates me! If you go with plated google TJ Convera for good prices on brass and plated bullets. Montana Gold has good prices on jacketed bullets with good delivery times. But, you can do better if you care to wait from places like Precision Delta, but I have waited up to 3 months to get bullets. Roze Distributing is anothe good soruce for jacketed bullets in bulk. Of course the gunstop has Montana Gold for a decent price in smaller quantiies.....speaking on that idea. Never buy bulk till you have a good idea something works. I am not fan of Red River Cast Bullets, as someone touched on above. I have spoke to Paul about leadkng issues at Funshows. They use a virgin alloy. Liked it when the Gunstop had Leo Dwyers bullets, never had problems with his. But, since going with Missouri bullets not an issue.


Screw using the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die, as it literally resizes the whole case and the bullet. If you do that you are swaging the bullet, and in the case of a lead bullet promote leading in theory. Just use a separete roll crimp die, or just seat first then go back and crimp in a separate step as you would if you use the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die.

Go Slow! Enjoy your new Hobby! U will have a smile from ear lobe to ear lobe, after you shoot your first loads!

[Seismic Sam]

I politely disagree about the Lee FCD die. It's set to make sure your wohole round will chamber to SAAMI specs, and if you have cases with thick walls, your round could be too fat. The FCD die may swage down a lead bullet in certain cases, but the bottom line is with ANY cast lead bullet the bore sealing process upon ignition depends upon the load being stiff enough to upset the base of the bullet and make it flow into the lands, thus sealing the barrel. Barrel leading is a function of power of the load, and the hardness of the bullet. Sometimes, too light a load will cause significant leading because you get the gases passing the bullet and causing flame cutting and lead deposition.

In addition, if you take any 10 old geezers who have been reloading for decades and don't need to ask John-Boy anything, at least 9 of them will tell you that the Lee FCD die is probably the best product that they ever came out with, and will buy that die even if everything else they have is Redding comp dies.

[RLF2011]

There are many things in a persons reloading experience that they think is pinnacle of equipment. And, the LEE FCD is not it. It is an answer to a question that never needed answering. As are many doo dads! Opinions abound! The one thing that was never mentioned. A person needs a solid bench to mount your press too. This can be accomplished with the likes of a Black and Decker Work Mate the 750 is what I used, when in an apt. had the press mounted to 2x12 and then clamped to the Work Mate. Weighed it down the Work Mate with a full ammo can.

When you start loading rifle rounds, then you will want Imperial Die Wax. And, then you will need a trimmer of some kind. Trimming sucks! No other word for it.
But, there are options.....the best set up for limited # of cases is using the Possum Hollow Kwick Trimmer held in powder adapter from Sinclair using a powered screw driver or drill. Functional. The Best Lathe type trimmer is Wilson. But, gets expensive with case holders. A workhorse to consider is either the Forster Orignal Case Trimmer Kit or RCBS Trim Pro Kit. If you are going to load a lot of rifle! Then skip to best! A Giruad! Now there is a tool that has absolutely NO PEERS at all. It was the best money I ever spent!

Cleaning your cases while not super necessary, as you can wipe them down after use. Most revolver cartridges never hit the floor, so a quick wipe with a cloth will do fine. There are liquid methods for cleaning ranging from homemade to the Ultrsonics. But, this requires you to prep cases ahead of time to account for the wait on drying...... A person can get nice vibratory polisher for under 60 bucks, Lyman comes to mind. You get your media at Graingers locally, you want corn cob blasting media 14/20 grit. Hit up the Gunstop for some Iosso case polish and you will have some shiney brass. Remember the that crushed walnut can be had in bulk from Petco or Wally World as it sold as lizzard litter. Never buy corn cob at Wally World or Petco, trust me on this one! The grit is too course, and well let us just say I had an afternoon with a dental pick and tumbler full of 223 brass with impacted media. Walnut cleans better, and corn cob polishes better. Flitz is good alternatve to Iosso for an additive.

You may want to consider doing any tumblng / polishing in the garage to keep the mess away from your man cave or kitchen table if you improvise.

Remember to wash your hands after any reloading function.

[rugersol]

There are many things in a persons reloading experience that they think is pinnacle of equipment. And, the LEE FCD is not it. It is an answer to a question that never needed answering. As are many doo dads! Opinions abound! The one thing that was never mentioned. A person needs a solid bench to mount your press too. This can be accomplished with the likes of a Black and Decker Work Mate the 750 is what I used, when in an apt. had the press mounted to 2x12 and then clamped to the Work Mate. Weighed it down the Work Mate with a full ammo can.

My buddy kept (keeps?) his press bolted to a 2x10 ... and uses a C-clamp to attach it to a table (I ain't checked lately, but he's got at least two presses now, and one 'er the other might be bolted directly onto tables, now).

Depending on a few things, a guy could probly do that with a kitchen table, countertop, or a REALLY, REALLY strong shelf.

It's hardly ideal ... but fer pistol, it's entirely doable! I was once at a guy's house where he had multiple Dillons on shelves along the wall ... he'd jest stand in front of 'em, and run 'em.

When you start loading rifle rounds, then you will want Imperial Die Wax. And, then you will need a trimmer of some kind. Trimming sucks! No other word for it.
But, there are options.....the best set up for limited # of cases is using the Possum Hollow Kwick Trimmer held in powder adapter from Sinclair using a powered screw driver or drill. Functional. The Best Lathe type trimmer is Wilson. But, gets expensive with case holders. A workhorse to consider is either the Forster Orignal Case Trimmer Kit or RCBS Trim Pro Kit. If you are going to load a lot of rifle! Then skip to best! A Giruad! Now there is a tool that has absolutely NO PEERS at all. It was the best money I ever spent! Lee Case Gauge and Trimmer and http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=394805

Cleaning your cases while not super necessary, as you can wipe them down after use. Most revolver cartridges never hit the floor, so a quick wipe with a cloth will do fine. There are liquid methods for cleaning ranging from homemade to the Ultrsonics. But, this requires you to prep cases ahead of time to account for the wait on drying...... A person can get nice vibratory polisher for under 60 bucks, Lyman comes to mind. You get your media at Graingers locally, you want corn cob blasting media 14/20 grit. Hit up the Gunstop for some Iosso case polish and you will have some shiney brass. Remember the that crushed walnut can be had in bulk from Petco or Wally World as it sold as lizzard litter. Never buy corn cob at Wally World or Petco, trust me on this one! The grit is too course, and well let us just say I had an afternoon with a dental pick and tumbler full of 223 brass with impacted media. Walnut cleans better, and corn cob polishes better. Flitz is good alternatve to Iosso for an additive.

You may want to consider doing any tumblng / polishing in the garage to keep the mess away from your man cave or kitchen table if you improvise.

Remember to wash your hands after any reloading function.

There ... that's better!

[Scott Notaeh]

I am still digesting some of this. Thanks again everyone for the suggestions. This is not the first suggestion I have had on the RCBS RC Supreme and I will do some research into it. I have looked into the LEE FCD and am pretty convinced this is the best direction for me. Also not sure I will be doing any lead bullets. The bullet buying info is good and I will come back to that when I buy bullets.

For rifle case trimming. I have a nice floor standing drill press that I would think might be useful. Looks like the Lee trimmer would work well in the drill press. Anyone do that?

I understand hazmat fees from buying rocket propellant. A solid bench will not be a problem. I will get a polisher - Looking at Harbor Freight one. Tumbling will be done in one of the garages so no worries there.

Washing hands is always a good tip. I read a section of a book yesterday on lead issues and last night forbid the kids from handling spent bullets, brass, and targets including bowling pins. It sucks because I was counting on the slave labor for brass collection and sorting.

Will add these to the list:
powder trickler
Iosso case polish
corn cob blasting media 14/20 grit
Walnut at Wally World

[engnerdan]

Washing hands is always a good tip. I read a section of a book yesterday on lead issues and last night forbid the kids from handling spent bullets, brass, and targets including bowling pins. It sucks because I was counting on the slave labor for brass collection and sorting.

This is all up to you on what you decide to do. But if you have them wash there hands when they are done can there be that much harm in it? I know plenty of people's kids fetched brass and handled lead. Should kids not fish too because sinkers are made of lead? I grew up at the range with my dad, fetching brass, picking up lead from the berm to be used for casting bullets. I also helped melt down lead into ingots for bullet casting and helped reload. I would get a jar of hand cleaning wipes and have the kids clean their hands when done fetching, the scrubs brand ones would be the kind I am referring to.

[Keith]

I stopped using the Lee FCD for BBI .45's. It was undersizing the bullet making a shotgun pattern on the target out of my 625 at 25 yards. Dug through all my stuff and found the original Dillon .45 die and all was well again with nice tight groups. I've made several thousand since then and every single one has case gaged, too.

I still use the FCD in 9mm and .40 FMJ's although it still doesn't seem to fix all of the .40 Glocked brass (using a gage) so I just set those aside for practice and never had a problem with them chambering in the factory Glock barrel.