1911 / Hollow Points?

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Re: 1911 / Hollow Points?

Postby Snowgun on Wed Dec 28, 2011 3:04 pm

steve4102 wrote:Your friend is half right. Kimber recommends ball ammo, but only for the first 500 or so rounds to break it in. After that, shoot whatever you and your Kimber like. Me, I ran 50 rounds of ball then switched over to LSWC AND JHP.


This is so the ball ammo polishes your feed ramp. ;)

I've only worked on 4 1911's that have had hollow point feeding issues (but fed ball well and didn't have magazine issues). They have all been mid to low range price guns (500-1200). Every single one of them fed hollowpoints after a polish of the feed ramp to take off the tool marks. All this needs is some 400 and 800 grit sandpaper, flintz or jewler's rouge and a felt dremel. No stones or grinding or angles or anything.

It's worked 100% of the time for me so far, and it isn't a major operation. (Throating the barrel and such is another story.) I don't understand why NOT to do it. At the very least it makes it easier to clean.
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Re: 1911 / Hollow Points?

Postby rugersol on Wed Dec 28, 2011 4:33 pm

JJ wrote:
rugersol wrote:So a FMJ .45 expands more than a JHP? Image


Wait, who said that FMJ expands more than a HP? :roll:

Shoot those +p HP's into ballistic gel, and get back to us.

Shoot those FMJ's into ballistic gel, and get back to us. :roll:
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Re: 1911 / Hollow Points?

Postby FJ540 on Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:13 pm

Last year, I finished a deer with a 230gr hydra shok at 3' in the head out of a 4.25" barrel - it didn't exit. I think they work pretty good as intended. :roll:
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Re: 1911 / Hollow Points?

Postby cobb on Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:23 am

Don't polish your feed ramp, you own a Kimber PRO CDP. The PRO CDP is an alloy frame and aggressive polishing can remove anodizing and then the softer material below will be exposed. Also stay away from magazines that have the split followers, they rock forward when the last round is stripped off and contact the feed ramp area and can damage an alloy frame, does not appear to be a problem for all steel 1911's.

I carry and shoot Speer 200 gr. Gold Dot +P out of my Kimber PRO CDP, use to buy them by the case at Striechers when they carried them on the shelf. I have had zero problem with Speer Gold Dot and very accurate, so I have no reason to change. So in the long term are you causing addition wear with the hotter loads verse the target ball, I would say yes, best is to leave it sit in the safe and don't shoot it, that will give you the most longevity by far.
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Re: 1911 / Hollow Points?

Postby LarryFlew on Fri Dec 30, 2011 5:16 pm

Originally had an extractor problem but after quick free trip to Kimber has been free of any problems at all. Its a custom with officer handle and mags and 4 inch upper and Crimson Trace grips.
Last edited by LarryFlew on Sat Dec 31, 2011 9:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1911 / Hollow Points?

Postby Rem700 on Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:52 pm

If a firearm functions reliably with 230gr HP other then cost what is the downside of useing it compared to 230gr FMJ :?:
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