Just got a Remington 700 in .338 lapua

[Seismic Sam]

WAAAYYYY too little break in, and probably done wrong. When I got my Armalite AR-10T Flat Top, there were two sets of instructions on how to break in a Match Grade Stainless barrel. Method #1 was to shoot one round, cleand and burnish with JB Bore paste (20 strokes, no less!) to clean and polish, repeat 5 times, and then go to 3 shots between cleanings for the first 20, and then 5 shots for the last 30 rounds. This would be at least a 4 hour job, if not more.

Method#2: Fire a moly coated bullet down the bore, clean with dry patch and repeat 50 times. That's it! Needless to say, neither my AR-10 or my .338 have EVER had a bare copper bullet shot through them from day one. CLEANING is not the only reason to break in a gun, and in fact it's not the major reason. The real reason is to smooth down all the microscopic imperfections in the bore, and it's significant that David Tubb himself came up with a set of microfine abrasive bullets in 5 grades to accomplish this exact purpose.

Hope you read this before you wind up going down the wrong track.

[justaguy]

WAAAYYYY too little break in, and probably done wrong. When I got my Armalite AR-10T Flat Top, there were two sets of instructions on how to break in a Match Grade Stainless barrel. Method #1 was to shoot one round, cleand and burnish with JB Bore paste (20 strokes, no less!) to clean and polish, repeat 5 times, and then go to 3 shots between cleanings for the first 20, and then 5 shots for the last 30 rounds. This would be at least a 4 hour job, if not more.

Method#2: Fire a moly coated bullet down the bore, clean with dry patch and repeat 50 times. That's it! Needless to say, neither my AR-10 or my .338 have EVER had a bare copper bullet shot through them from day one. CLEANING is not the only reason to break in a gun, and in fact it's not the major reason. The real reason is to smooth down all the microscopic imperfections in the bore, and it's significant that David Tubb himself came up with a set of microfine abrasive bullets in 5 grades to accomplish this exact purpose.

Hope you read this before you wind up going down the wrong track.

Method #3: Just Shoot.

[JJ]

Sorry Sam, but there is ZERO consensus on barrel break in. Barrel makers all vary on their instructions on proper break-in.

http://www.riflebarrels.com/support/cen ... enance.htm

For an effective break-in the barrel should be cleaned after every shot for the first 10-12 rounds or until copper fouling stops. Our procedure is to push a cotton patch that is wet with solvent through the barrel. This will remove much of the powder fouling and wet the inside of the barrel with solvent. Next, wet a bronze brush with solvent and stroke the barrel 5-10 times. Follow this by another wet patch and then one dry patch. Now soak the barrel with a strong copper removing solvent until all of the blue mess is removed from the barrel. The copper fouling will be heavy for a few rounds and then taper off quickly in just one or two shots. Once it has stopped or diminished significantly it is time to start shooting 5 shot groups, cleaning after each one. After 25-30 rounds clean at a normal interval of 10-25 rounds. Your barrel is now broken-in.

http://www.hartbarrels.com/faq.php

What do you recommend for barrel break-in?
We do not believe that a break in procedure is required with our barrels. If you follow our normal cleaning procedure, outlined in this brochure, you should not have any problems with your new rifle. You always want to clean your rifle as often as your course of fire will allow. If you have time to shoot one and clean, that would be fine, but we personally do not feel it is necessary. Please be sure to only use the cleaning solvents listed in our cleaning instructions.

http://www.mcgowenbarrel.com/BarrelBreakIn.pdf

DO NOT USE MOLY COATED BULLETS DURING BREAK-IN
1. We have found with experience that for you to get the best results out of your barrel that
you should clean after each shot for the first 10 rounds or until the copper fouling stops.
With all of our barrels being honed and hand-lapped we have found that fouling is minimal.
2. Always use a bore guide and a good, coated rod when cleaning.
3. Use good quality phosphor bronze brushes
4. Use good quality cotton flannel patches
5. Use a quality bore cleaner like Butches Bore Shine or Sweets to remove any copper. Copper
residue will show up as blue with these cleaners.
6. Soak your cotton patch in your bore cleaner and swab through the barrel. Once the barrel
has been completely coated let sit for 30 seconds and use your phosphor bronze brush
dipped in the same solution and scrub your bore (about 10 to 20 strokes)
7. Afterwards, run a clean patch through your bore until it shows no signs of copper. You may
have to repeat steps 5 through 7 until it is clean
8. Use a good bore cleaner (not a copper remover) to clean the bore completely of the copper
remover afterwards.
9. After you have cleaned after each shot you will be able to tell when your bore is no longer
copper fouling. Once you have seen this you can move on to cleaning after every 3 to 5 shot
group. This should be done for the next 40 rounds.
10. After which it is probably wise for you to check your barrel after each day of shooting or at
least every 25 rounds.

http://www.shilen.com/faq.html#question10

PROCEDURE: Once again, many different procedures abound. All accomplish basically the same thing. Here's ours: With the bore guide and the brass brush on the cleaning rod, apply the solvent to the brush by dipping it in the bottle or squirting a few drops on the brush. Slide the bore guide up over the brush and insert the bore guide into the chamber with a twisting motion. Push the brush through the barrel until it comes out the end of the muzzle. Now pull the brush back into the chamber guide. This is one "cycle". Make one cycle for each bullet fired, then apply more solvent to the brush and repeat this procedure. Now, fold or cut the patch for a snug, not tight, fit. Push the the first patch all the way through the bore and out the muzzle. As you draw the rod back, the patch should fall off. Put on another patch and push it towards the muzzle until you can feel it touch your finger placed over the muzzle. Then draw the patch back to the chamber and push it once more out the end of the muzzle so that it drops off. Repeat this with one more patch and you are finished. If you are through shooting for the day, lightly wet a patch with a light viscosity machine oil to prevent or retard rust. Push this patch through the bore. Let it drop out the muzzle, and you are done.

[jp8775]

http://www.mcgowenbarrel.com/BarrelBreakIn.pdf

I basically followed your procedure, Cleaned after each round for 10 rounds. Brushed and patched until clean. I did however use copper cleaner as I have always done in the past. After 10 rounds I switched to gun solvent and copper after each 3 rounds. I did this until I had shot 30 rounds. I had a group that was 5 rounds and all of them were touching at 200 yds when I was done. Hornady 250 grains and PPU same weight (http://www.prvipartizan.com/) shot identical at this distance. Both were the same as far as how dirty the barrel was after each shot. I am going to watch that ammo I have 4 more boxes of it, if the PPU works ok, I can buy this for $47 box or less(20), that’s $2.35 a round. I do not think you can load that for that. At least I could build up stock of brass. Even if I get 3 reloads out of the brass it basically free. It cost $49 box 25 Hornady and more for the Lapua. I have 8lbs of H870 left from a few years ago and found a load for it in the new sierra manual. Funny it was discontinued in 1991. I have used it for my 338 Winchester Magnum and love it. I will be sad when it’s all gone. I guess I should not complain I get components at OEM prices with my 07 FFL. I really like this gun. I need to go to Faribault next to get some distance.

[wigs]

Subscribed. I wish i had that land close buy.

[jp8775]

In the summer time we can jump in my plane fly to my cabin. Land on my 3000’ strip shoot on the strip and be back for dinner. Need more retired people like me for friends?
I have resized the shot cases, primed them and I am ready to load them up. Guess I may be shooting again tomorrow. I have a 25 power scope but it not a real expensive one. It has side adjust focus and seems to have enough adjustment for the 20 MOA scope mount as it works. I have had two of them for years and used one of them on my .338 WM and it never blew them up. I have to see how much I like super long range shooting before I spend a good used car on a scope. I may have just not got the bug bad enough yet.

[wigs]

jealous

[jp8775]

Don’t be, I hardly saw my kids grow up and was always gone. If I had to do it all again I would have done things a lot different.

[Seismic Sam]

Thank you for the education, JJ!!

[jp8775]

I was not trying to be condescending or anything, I just was stating my regrets for having a few nice things in life verses what they cost me. Did not mean anything by it.

[jp8775]

I am working on bullet run out equipment, looks like the forester 810482 is the fastest and easiest to run? It checks 3 different dimensions.

[OldmanFCSA]

Try Lehigh Bullets in your 338 Laupua.

The .338 Match Hybrid BoreRider is a premium match bullet specifically designed for the .338 Lapua and other .338 magnums for long range applications. The front etching band diameter is 0.336 and the rear driving band diameters are 0.3380. The required barrel twist rate for stability with a muzzle velocity greater than 2,800 fps is 1:11. The bullet is machined from UNSC36000 brass. The advanced projectile design and controlled manufacturing tolerances advance the accuracy potential of these cartridges. Weight - 245 grains, BC (calculated) - 0.869, Length - 1.800, Design velocity - 2,800-3,500, Material - UNSC36000 brass, Sold in a packages of 50 at $60.00/box. Shipping via USPS Priorty Mail to the 50 states is included in the price.



The .338 Match is a premium match bullet specifically designed for the .338 Lapua. The bullet is designed for magazine feeding with an overall cartridge length of 3.602. The required barrel twist rate for stability with a muzzle velocity greater than 2,800 fps is 1:12. The bullet is machined from UNSC36000 brass. The advanced projectile design and controlled manufacturing tolerances advance the accuracy potential of these cartridges. Weight - 230 grains, BC (calculated) - 0.641, Length - 1.600, Design velocity - 2,800-3,500, Material - UNSC36000 brass, Sold in a packages of 50 at $50.00/box. Shipping via USPS Priorty Mail to the 50 states is included in the price.


I use 800, 808, and 815 grain bullets from Lehigh for my 50BMG target loads.

[jp8775]

Try Lehigh Bullets in your 338 Laupua.

The .338 Match Hybrid BoreRider is a premium match bullet specifically designed for the .338 Lapua and other .338 magnums for long range applications. The front etching band diameter is 0.336 and the rear driving band diameters are 0.3380. The required barrel twist rate for stability with a muzzle velocity greater than 2,800 fps is 1:11. The bullet is machined from UNSC36000 brass. The advanced projectile design and controlled manufacturing tolerances advance the accuracy potential of these cartridges. Weight - 245 grains, BC (calculated) - 0.869, Length - 1.800, Design velocity - 2,800-3,500, Material - UNSC36000 brass, Sold in a packages of 50 at $60.00/box. Shipping via USPS Priorty Mail to the 50 states is included in the price.



The .338 Match is a premium match bullet specifically designed for the .338 Lapua. The bullet is designed for magazine feeding with an overall cartridge length of 3.602. The required barrel twist rate for stability with a muzzle velocity greater than 2,800 fps is 1:12. The bullet is machined from UNSC36000 brass. The advanced projectile design and controlled manufacturing tolerances advance the accuracy potential of these cartridges. Weight - 230 grains, BC (calculated) - 0.641, Length - 1.600, Design velocity - 2,800-3,500, Material - UNSC36000 brass, Sold in a packages of 50 at $50.00/box. Shipping via USPS Priorty Mail to the 50 states is included in the price.


I use 800, 808, and 815 grain bullets from Lehigh for my 50BMG target loads.

The specs say this has a 1-10 twist?

[jp8775]

I am working on bullet run out equipment, looks like the forester 810482 is the fastest and easiest to run? It checks 3 different dimensions.

I just watched the Hornady unit used on U-Tube and that looks easier to run and do.

[jp8775]

OAL:do you guys agree with this.

Initially, seat the bullet deliberatley too far out. Place in chamber and close and lock bolt.
Remove round. You will see some righteous rifling marks. This process will have seated
bullet farther into case. This a crude starting point.
Then, place this round into seater die. The Redding micrometer comes in real handy about
now. Spin micrometer down to make contact. Then spin down a little more,say, 0.010". At
this point it becomes a guessing game of sorts. Seat another, unmarked bullet in another
case at this setting. Chamber this rd. and check for rifling marks. If marks are still
pronounced ie. much longer than wide, then down another 0.010 or so on the micrometer.
This took me a few tries. Anyway, when the rifling marks are approx. 1/2 as long as they
are wide, I called that touching the lans. From that point, I could set the micrometer 2 or 3
thousandths lower and get no marks upon chambering. Then, whatever setting gave the
"touching lans" effect, I would double or triple check with another of same bullet type.
Then , make up a dummy rd. and record data on that case: mainly bullet type and
micrometer setting that yielded desired rifling marks. The "lans toucher dummy rd." if you
please. Every time I cha! nged the die setting for another bullet type, I would recheck the
"lans" setting to see if it still gave me the " just touching" effect. So far it has worked, it
just took some time.

I havea forster bench rest Micrometer seater die for .338 Lapua, and a new Hornady concentricity tool.