Glock failure to fire question

[flyhigh511]

I've never been a Glock guy and recently picked up two Gen 4's on the forum. One 34 and one 17, both perfect guns. Took them both to the range today.
Liked each of them. Personally liked the feel of the 34 much better. but....
I had at least 6 FTF's with the 34. There was a normal looking primer strike on each round, ammo was WWB. I tried a couple of them a second time in the 34, nothing.
The 34 has the following mods; 3.5 connector, zev tech comp spring kit, zev tech race connector.
Put all six dented primer rounds in a magazine, put in the stock 17. bang,bang,bang,bang,bang bang. Forgive the stupid question, I've not been a Glock guy. Do any of these mods effect the firing pin spring? Can it get too light to work right? Can you keep the trigger lighter but increase the firing pin spring?

Thanks

[TH3180]

Yup, your spring kit gives it lighter firing pin strike. Most guys with gamer springs run Federal primers because they are softer.

[connsolo]

I got a few failures to fire with my glock 26. I thought it was the brown bear ammo. It always went bang when I ran it through again. Then it happened with an S&B. I took the back thingy apart and cleaned the needle-y whatchamacallit. Guess some oil and carbon got back there during cleaning and gummed things up. Several hundred rounds later no issues.

[CUZICAN]

Yup, your spring kit gives it lighter firing pin strike. Most guys with gamer springs run Federal primers because they are softer.

this is your answer.

[TTS]

Yup, your spring kit gives it lighter firing pin strike. Most guys with gamer springs run Federal primers because they are softer.

this is your answer.

+1

[MrVvrroomm]

Why do people buy 100% reliable guns then put **** in that doesn't work...then start a threads titled, "Glock failure to fire question".

[Snowgun]

Why do people buy 100% reliable guns then put **** in that doesn't work...then start a threads titled, "Glock failure to fire question".

Totally agree, should have been titled: "Will trade mediocre Glock for 1911".

[Snowgun]

Oh, and to give a solution to the problem:

Although you might be stuck having to fire federally primered ammo, sometimes guns can be modified using a slightly longer firing pin which helps ignition.

I have never tried it with a glock though because I would rather have a zip gun made from a bar of soap than that Austrian made POS.

[TTS]

Oh, and to give a solution to the problem:

Although you might be stuck having to fire federally primered ammo, sometimes guns can be modified using a slightly longer firing pin which helps ignition.

I have never tried it with a glock though because I would rather have a zip gun made from a bar of soap than that Austrian made POS.

Here is the part that Snowgun is talking about. If you want to keep the springs you will need this for reliability.
http://www.glockworx.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=155963&CAT=3689

[unit44justin]

Sounds to me that the previous owner put them in and the OP bought it that way. I would personally buy all factory parts to replace the after market junk that was put in it. Go here http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Glo ... id858.aspx and order parts 7, 10, and 25. You can keep the connector if you want, but if you want the factory connector order #24 as well in the 5lb variation. Here are videos showing how to disassemble the frame and the slide.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63K9_tJ4ptI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spLJPArKAuk

[CUZICAN]

i have comp springs in my glock 19 and it tends to be more sensitive to the firing pin area being dirty and jammed up with brass filings - not that sensitive, but more so than with the original springs.

[TH3180]

Sounds to me that the previous owner put them in and the OP bought it that way. I would personally buy all factory parts to replace the after market junk that was put in it. Go here http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Glo ... id858.aspx and order parts 7, 10, and 25. You can keep the connector if you want, but if you want the factory connector order #24 as well in the 5lb variation. Here are videos showing how to disassemble the frame and the slide.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63K9_tJ4ptI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spLJPArKAuk

That's a bold statement about aftermarket parts. If it is going to be a gamer gun. I would say leave the gaming parts in it. Most of the other people playing the games have gaming parts/junk. Why should he?

[unit44justin]

Sounds to me that the previous owner put them in and the OP bought it that way. I would personally buy all factory parts to replace the after market junk that was put in it. Go here http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Glo ... id858.aspx and order parts 7, 10, and 25. You can keep the connector if you want, but if you want the factory connector order #24 as well in the 5lb variation. Here are videos showing how to disassemble the frame and the slide.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63K9_tJ4ptI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spLJPArKAuk

That's a bold statement about aftermarket parts. If it is going to be a gamer gun. I would say leave the gaming parts in it. Most of the other people playing the games have gaming parts/junk. Why should he?

That's fine and dandy if he is is going to plan on shooting comps. As stated above he should get the $80 extended firing pin, and while he is at it spend another $150 on the Fulcrum adjustable trigger. 99% of the time putting in after market parts will make reliable products fail to perform as they should.

[MrVvrroomm]

The the original poster: I will return your Gen4 Glock 34 to original specs with OEM Glock parts, free of charge.

[Snowgun]

The the original poster: I will return your Gen4 Glock 34 to original specs with OEM Glock parts, free of charge.

Its a trap!