new to reloading

[bluempls]

Do I need both a powder scale and a powder measure if I have a digital scale?

[gun_fan111]

Scale is needed to verify the weight dispensed by the measure.

[bensdad]

A measure works by allowing specific volume to flow at one time. A scale makes sure the volume you throw is the correct wt.

Example: The RCBS powder flow is a cylinder with a fixed diameter and a variable length. You throw a charge into the pan (from your scale) and see if it's the right wt. You then adjust the length of the cylinder (with a little dial thingamajig) and try again. Once the powder flow throws the correct wt., you tighten up the thingamajig, weigh a few throws (for verification) and go to town.

You could not safely reload without a scale. You could reload without a measure, but it would take four hours to do 50 rds.

[Synergy]

Describe your digital scale, what is the resolution and since you asked the question I'm going to ask does it measure in grains?

[BigDog58]

If you have the Digital Scale, be certain you have the proper weights to calibrate it. Electronic Digital Scales are also affected by heat (to the components) and can change as it heats up. For this reason, I never turn off my Pact Digital Scale . I also Calibrate it EVERY time before I begin throwing charges (with my powder measure. The measure isn't 100%necessary, but some sort of scale (be it balance beam or digital) is a must. The measure will greatly speed your ability to load rounds. Even though I'm positive my powder measure throws consistent weights of powder, once I have it set,I still spot check a round or rounds all during my loading session. This applies to pistol rounds only, for me.
For Rifle loading I weigh every single powder charge and use a powder trickler to get every round to the exact same might....ie: 43.7 gr and so on.

I seldomly use my beam scale any more because the Digital Scale is much easier and faster. On occasion, I will get it out and simply double check my digital scale.

[Seismic Sam]

I'll go a little further than Synergy - if the accuracy is stated as .01 gram and .1 grain, then it's 95% likely it's a POS. If it cost $35 or thereabouts it's a POS. Do a search on my rants of digital scales and bone up on the details. As a very beginning reloader who doesn't even know for sure what stuff he needs, blindly trusting what that digital readout says could be big trouble. If you haven't already bought and read ALL of Lyman #49, Speer #14, or Hornady #9 reloading manuals, then you are already ahead of yourself asking us to spoon feed you every little detail. read the WHOLE manual cover-to-cover, and then come back and ask questions.

[OldmanFCSA]

I used a RCBS ChargeMaster for several years (currently back for repairs). It digitally controls the "throw" of powder by using an electronic hi-speed trickle function for rough weight finishing with a slower trickle to final weight. Mine (prior to low-speed failure) correlates exactly with my Texan balance-beam scale. I use it for "throwing" 246 grains of Reloder50, 238 grains of 20N29, or 222 grains of H50BMG, for my target 50's. It works well for sub-caliber cartridges like 308 or 30-06 also. Just kidding!!!

[BigDog58]

I used a RCBS ChargeMaster for several years (currently back for repairs). It digitally controls the "throw" of powder by using an electronic hi-speed trickle function for rough weight finishing with a slower trickle to final weight. Mine (prior to low-speed failure) correlates exactly with my Texan balance-beam scale. I use it for "throwing" 246 grains of Reloder50, 238 grains of 20N29, or 222 grains of H50BMG, for my target 50's. It works well for sub-caliber cartridges like 308 or 30-06 also. Just kidding!!!

Oldman , you might want to make sure those sub caliber charges are VERY Accurate, given our little challenges coming as soon as this Old Dog is back on my feet. You're gonna need those sub .5 MOA groups....lol

[andrewP]

I used a RCBS ChargeMaster for several years (currently back for repairs). It digitally controls the "throw" of powder by using an electronic hi-speed trickle function for rough weight finishing with a slower trickle to final weight. Mine (prior to low-speed failure) correlates exactly with my Texan balance-beam scale. I use it for "throwing" 246 grains of Reloder50, 238 grains of 20N29, or 222 grains of H50BMG, for my target 50's. It works well for sub-caliber cartridges like 308 or 30-06 also. Just kidding!!!

Oldman , you might want to make sure those sub caliber charges are VERY Accurate, given our little challenges coming as soon as this Old Dog is back on my feet. You're gonna need those sub .5 MOA groups....lol

Hah, that must make the 9mm rounds I load count as "sub sub caliber." For that use, I actually found that my father in law's ChargeMaster was somewhat problematic. The high-speed trickle function would overshoot my target charge frequently enough to be frustrating (something like 1 in 9 or 10 charges would be "heavy," sometimes by a LOT). I think perhaps the scale part of it doesn't always update the weight as quickly as it could, or maybe the trickler just doesn't do very well with flake powders (I was using Unique), but I was annoyed with it on a regular basis. Even so, I was of course thankful that he was allowing me to use his equipment until I could get my own. Beggars can't be choosers, and all that.

[Jack's My dog]

I'll go a little further than Synergy - if the accuracy is stated as .01 gram and .1 grain, then it's 95% likely it's a POS. If it cost $35 or thereabouts it's a POS. Do a search on my rants of digital scales and bone up on the details. As a very beginning reloader who doesn't even know for sure what stuff he needs, blindly trusting what that digital readout says could be big trouble. If you haven't already bought and read ALL of Lyman #49, Speer #14, or Hornady #9 reloading manuals, then you are already ahead of yourself asking us to spoon feed you every little detail. read the WHOLE manual cover-to-cover, and then come back and ask questions.

I will echo Sam's concerns about low end digital scales, based on first hand experience as a n00b reloader. They can be very inconstant. If you going with the digi-scale I would recommend taking some time to find out all of its idiosyncrasies and drop the same charge on the scale in various locations and see if or how it has an effect on the weight. Note undercharged or missed loads can be just as dangerous as hot or over charged loads.


When you are starting out and weighing every charge, trickling every load is a good place to start. Setting a powder measure can be very frustrating at first, as there are a lot of factors that effect how it functions. Different powders seem to work better with different throwers and you need to get a repeatable consistent rhythm down when actuating the unit as this variable can affect weights thrown.



A piece of unsolicited advice, if you have a question ask it, what seems to be a minor detail can be a big issue, and there are a lot of guys willing to share there experience and knowledge. Not sure if the ABC's of Reloading was mentioned, but I think it is a valuable read.

[Seismic Sam]

To counter the thing about asking questions, the board is NOT a "Daycare Center" for beginners to come and have their nappies changed and get their bottle twice a day, and just depend on us to answer all of your questions. Handloading first and foremost is a matter of PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY, and that means making sure what you're doing is safe by LEARNING by your own effort the contents of at least two major reloading manuals, and internet reloading lists don't count! If you were just a hermit and going to shoot in the woods it wouldn't be that big a deal, but most everybody goes to ranges where there are other people, and some of us have been a couple of seconds or inches away from getting our heads blown off by some idiot next to us with some shi**y hamdloads, and we aren't too keen on enabling another idiot to skim through a manual in 20 minutes, loading up some ammo, and taking off for the range.

So learn everything you can from careful study, let it settle into your head for a while to see if you can visualize all of it, and THEN start asking questions. And don't think for a second that we can't tell from your question whether you have been studying hard, or are lazy and want your nappy changed because you're a lazy n00b, because those of us with 30+ years of reloading manuals on their shelves know every subject that's covered in manuals, and can tell in an instant whether your question is covered in a manual or not.

[Jack's My dog]

To counter the thing about asking questions, the board is NOT a "Daycare Center" for beginners to come and have their nappies changed and get their bottle twice a day, and just depend on us to answer all of your questions. Handloading first and foremost is a matter of PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY, and that means making sure what you're doing is safe by LEARNING by your own effort the contents of at least two major reloading manuals, and internet reloading lists don't count! If you were just a hermit and going to shoot in the woods it wouldn't be that big a deal, but most everybody goes to ranges where there are other people, and some of us have been a couple of seconds or inches away from getting our heads blown off by some idiot next to us with some shi**y hamdloads, and we aren't too keen on enabling another idiot to skim through a manual in 20 minutes, loading up some ammo, and taking off for the range.

So learn everything you can from careful study, let it settle into your head for a while to see if you can visualize all of it, and THEN start asking questions. And don't think for a second that we can't tell from your question whether you have been studying hard, or are lazy and want your nappy changed because you're a lazy n00b, because those of us with 30+ years of reloading manuals on their shelves know every subject that's covered in manuals, and can tell in an instant whether your question is covered in a manual or not.

Just to clarify, I think Sam is correct, one that is endeavoring to become a re-loader needs to do their homework-reference my suggestion of the ABC's of reloading to add to the previously recommended literature. Having done one's due diligence, if there is something you are not sure about ask someone. I will go back to my prior question/in regards to " is 231-W231-Win-231 the same thing" seamed like an obvious/basic question, based on my research I couldn't find a verifiable yes..so I asked here. Making the same assumptions with the "110" powders (I know they are not the same) looks like it could get you into some trouble.

[Seismic Sam]

And I doubt you will find a statement in any manual that 231= Winchester 231, so it's an odd question that nobody would ever likely ask who had been reloading for a long time, but for a cautious beginner it's a question where you can't find the answer in a manual...

[BigDog58]

Sam or OldmanFCSA are the ladies here to ask about the powders. They go back to mixing Charcoal, Sulphur and Salt Peter to make their own

[ScatterGun4015]

Sam or OldmanFCSA are the ladies here to ask about the powders. They go back to mixing Charcoal, Sulphur and Salt Peter to make their own

dont forget the chili powder for the "HOT" magnum loads