Stainless Revolver - Cylinder Discoloration

[warrlac]

Perhaps someone here on MNGT has already discovered a good way to remove this flash discoloration from the satin finish on a stainless steel revolver without damaging it?

Maybe it's not possible. I don't know.





Thanks.
Warrlac

[karlobag]

Yes, use Hoppe's #9 and a maroon 3M Scotch Brite pad. Dip the pad in a little Hoppe's and "scrub" away the fouling stains, very lightly with the pad. Then clean up with a cloth or paper towel. Should be as good as new.

Also, I have used old pencil erasers and Birchwood Casey Lead Remover Cloths.

[mmcnx2]

I'd be real careful with that scotch brite pad(personally I'd not use it). They have just enough abrasion to scuff the finish - you could end up with a shiny spot or matte verse the bead type finish you have.

Stick with Hoppes and cotton rags.

[cobb]

This works very well for me, have been using for years on the front of stainless revolver cylinders.
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Cleaning ... 6-x-9.aspx
Do read the warnings, they state that it can remove bluing, so do not use on a blued firearm.
They come in bigger sheets, I cut them down to small 2" or so pieces and even after it turns black, it will still remove the fouling from the front of a stainless cylinder. Just keep the pieces in a sealed bag to keep them from drying out.

I would assume products like Brasso or other metal cleaners might work also, not sure.
I would stay away from things like Scotch Bright, emery cloth or other abrasive materials unless a surface is burned or pitted and chemicals designed to clean do not work

[ex-LT]

This works very well for me, have been using for years on the front of stainless revolver cylinders.
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Cleaning ... 6-x-9.aspx
Do read the warnings, they state that it can remove bluing, so do not use on a blued firearm.
They come in bigger sheets, I cut them down to small 2" or so pieces and even after it turns black, it will still remove the fouling from the front of a stainless cylinder. Just keep the pieces in a sealed bag to keep them from drying out.

I would assume products like Brasso or other metal cleaners might work also, not sure.
I would stay away from things like Scotch Bright, emery cloth or other abrasive materials unless a surface is burned or pitted and chemicals designed to clean do not work

I'd stay away from Brasso too, as it contains a mild abrasive. While it would probably take years of using it to ruin the finish, the possibility does exist.

[JJ]

I'd be real careful with that scotch brite pad(personally I'd not use it). They have just enough abrasion to scuff the finish - you could end up with a shiny spot or matte verse the bead type finish you have.

Stick with Hoppes and cotton rags.

^this. Scotchbrite red pads are abrasive enough to "grain" stainless steel (try it on your kitchen sink once). 0000# steel wool might be an option (it won't cut bluing with oil), but that small amount of discoloration is just good honest use.

[Sigfan220]

I used Flitz on my Smith and Wesson 44's. It takes that right off and won't mark up the surface at all. I would not use anything abrasive on a gun unless I absolutely had to. Flitz is handy for all sorts of stuff, it is good to keep a tube around.

[wasfuzz]

I have used "Never Dull" in the past. Sell it at Wally world and auto parts stores. It is a cotton wadding treated with some type of petro chemical and it has not had any adverse effect on my guns.

[Seismic Sam]

My goodness Sir!! Is that a big revolver in your pants or are you glad to see me??

NIX on the red Scotchbtite!! That's full of silicon carbide crystals, and WAYYYY too rough for gun polishing.

The magic formula is a Dremel with a FELT bullet or cylinder, and a small container of JB (Jim Brobst) bore cleaner. Work the paste into the felt really well, set the Dremel on about 3 (and wear a crappy shirt because the paste spins off the Dremel) and you can "erase" that discoloration in less than a minute. NOTE that I did not say 5 seconds! JB Bore paste is an abrasive, but a very fine and mild one, so you can't screw up in 20 seconds flat like with a grinding wheel or Scotchbite. Been using this on my Smith 500 for years, and this method always get it back to factory new condition, except for the throat wear on the barrel.

[dleong]

I've been using Noxon 7 metal polish for years to remove the carbon fouling from the front cylinder faces of my Target Gray SRHs and stainless SBH and GP100 revolvers. No fancy process involved--I just squeeze a small bead of it onto a paper towel and lightly rub the stained areas.

[Eleanor08]

I second the Flitz.

[Rodentman]

Ah I just leave stuff like that. I clean the cylinder inside but that stuff just comes back and gives the gun "character." Unless it's really thick and impedes cylinder rotation, the marks are ok with me.

[warrlac]

Thanks Sam (and everyone who posted a reply).

I've been shooting everything from reduced power, 1350 fps UltraMax ammo to 2075 fps Hornady FTX 300 gr. In all cases the forcing cone and barrel throat see some pretty serious flash and pressure (the X-Frame seems to handle it though...)

I'll pick up a few of the items recommended by the members here on MNGT and play around with the front of the cylinder this week to see how things work out.

I like the 500 S&W because everyone wants to shoot it, so it's an easy way to make new shooting sports friends at the gun range (or wherever).

Thanks again.

Warrlac

My goodness Sir!! Is that a big revolver in your pants or are you glad to see me??

NIX on the red Scotchbtite!! That's full of silicon carbide crystals, and WAYYYY too rough for gun polishing.

The magic formula is a Dremel with a FELT bullet or cylinder, and a small container of JB (Jim Brobst) bore cleaner. Work the paste into the felt really well, set the Dremel on about 3 (and wear a crappy shirt because the paste spins off the Dremel) and you can "erase" that discoloration in less than a minute. NOTE that I did not say 5 seconds! JB Bore paste is an abrasive, but a very fine and mild one, so you can't screw up in 20 seconds flat like with a grinding wheel or Scotchbite. Been using this on my Smith 500 for years, and this method always get it back to factory new condition, except for the throat wear on the barrel.