by Seismic Sam on Sat Jun 09, 2012 1:36 pm
Dpends how bad you want the gun. Also, taking it to a smith and THEN trying to get your money back is the wrong order to do it.
As far as tuning the extractor, I think it should be bent "in" more to hold the case rim better, as you are having cases go all over the place including your head, indicating that the case is in all sorts of positions when it hits the ejector. Ergo, the extractor has already let go of it before it hits the ejector. It might also be possible that a loose case bouncing around inside the slide might affect the feeding of the next round.
I would also polish the feed ramp, as this has helped with all my EAA guns tremendously, and the ramp of my 50GI is like a mirror, and functions flawlwssly, so that's the way expert gunsmiths do it. To do this, you need a Dremel tool, with a round felt wheel and also a felt bullet shape. Then get a container of JB bore paste, and rub some of the bore paste into the wheel and the bullet. While polishing, you can put the felt back into the bore paste at lower RPM to pick up some more. The good thing about this is that it's going to take a while (half an hour or more), to polish the feed ramp, so it's not like getting an aluminum oxide stone and screwing the whole job up in 30 seconds flat. Make sure there are no sharp edges on the inner edges of the barrel, and polish those down a bit if there are. Same for the edges of the ramp.
A 23# spring sounds a little stiff for anything but a 10mm or a 45 Super, so you might look at a 20 or 18. If the slide doesn't make it all the way to the back of the frame, that can cause all sorts of fun.